Author |
Message |
S1owner
| Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 04:35 pm: |
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Get a factory service manual first Race use ecu if I am correct raises your rev limit only. Best chance for new parts is Lance651 on here or call him at St Paul Harley he also has an ebay store. As far as tour oil hose. I would not run that hose. Its not the correct design. Get standard hose or do something like this
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Buellrobot
| Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 04:37 pm: |
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Egagnon086, my PDF manual doesn't have this section either. Check this website for a more comprehensive X1 manual: http://www.buellmods.com/#TabbedContent Oil hose routing is detailed in section 3.8 (page 3-32). |
Buellrobot
| Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 04:42 pm: |
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Also, yes that looks like a Vance & Hines exhaust. Big +1 on what Hootowl said about not running it without the bolt going through the Y bracket. http://vanceandhines.com/download/B130IN.pdf |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 05:05 pm: |
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Thanks Guys. Buellrobot- that pdf is much better. I'm going to stop by the local autozone and grab some "correct" oil line. Just normal hose clamps should work I presume. |
651lance
| Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 05:13 pm: |
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The oil line is just 3/8 oil line nothing special, save some $$ and go to the local Fleet Farm or auto parts store. Watch out using screw style clamps, they can cut the line. I prefer the crimp style clamps. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 08:55 pm: |
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The race ECU on injected bikes allows it to add more fuel as well as raising the revlimiter to 7200. Anyways, I took a bunch of photos and they look like crap so here they are:
I hope these pics help out with respect to the routing. You don't have to make your bike this dirty but it helps. |
651lance
| Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 - 09:57 pm: |
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I had Goodrich build me a set of oil lines the never dropped a drip of oil in the last 20 years.
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Upthemaiden
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 08:05 am: |
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I love those custom oil lines. Are all of the fittings to the engine/oil pump the same size/thread, or is everything an assorted mess when you start trying to piece things together to replace the rubber hoses? Is there nicer fittings that will work with the plastic oil tank, or only if you have one of the aluminum tanks? I see one of you has a metal tank and the other has an XB swingarm. My S1 still has the regular plastic talk. (Message edited by upthemaiden on January 12, 2017) |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 08:48 am: |
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Thanks Natexlh1000 for the pics, I'm going to start my oil line adventure this weekend. Your pics will help. Is that some kinda fancy breather above your Air cleaner? Mine just has hoses that run back. |
S1owner
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 08:56 am: |
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If you are looking for mine pm me I have detailed instructions including part numbers. Atvyou oil tank they attach like stock. I prefer a diffrent way instead of hose clamp
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Court
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 09:19 am: |
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Sweet workmanship . . . more about that tool please. I hate hose clamps. |
S1owner
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 09:23 am: |
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Not a breather its a catch can like this
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S1owner
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 09:26 am: |
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If you want to see a really nice X1 look up Purpony or go here http://www.mcmoto-worx.com |
651lance
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 09:32 am: |
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The oil lines on my S2 are all mainly one piece. The lines screws into the oil pump and cam cover. When it get to the oil tank it has a small small threaded piece that slides over the fitting and a retainer that screws into the oil line fitting, it's a vary clean setup. |
Ralph
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 09:40 am: |
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Josh, the metal tank is on Lances S2 - they came from the factory with aluminum tanks....and no, it won't fit your S1. |
Upthemaiden
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 10:44 am: |
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That's definitely an interesting tool. Is it something you made yourself or did you pick it up somewhere? I agree I also hate hose clamps. I should look into some of the crimp style sometime. Ralph, thanks. I could tell it was a different bike, didn't remember exactly which bike has those, but I knew it was one of the ones with the front fairing. I don't dislike my plastic tank enough to want to pay $600+ for one of the aluminum S1/M2 tanks, but someday down the line I'm sure I could just make one with some better fittings. One of the fittings on the bottom of my tank already drips slowly. S1owner, I'll send you a PM about those lines. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 12:42 pm: |
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Couldn't I just wrap it once or twice and use my Safety wire pliers that spin to do something like that., or would that just cut into the house? I'm probably going to use spring clamps or normal hose clamps, though. AS I have a ton of them. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 12:57 pm: |
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For the tool s1owner showed, http://clamptitetools.net/ Or for the diy people, http://www.instructables.com/id/Wire-clamping-tool -DIY-/ |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2017 - 01:42 pm: |
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The aluminum tubes you see above my aircleaner are the breathers that come with the forcewinder air filter. They are supposed to lead into the back of the filter. It sucked there. It would condense out a clump of baby snot oily water and dribble it on my right foot/leg. I finally gave up with it and rerouted the breather down the clear hose to right in front of the exhaust outlet. It's been like that for probably 60,000 miles with no adverse effects and clean shoes. I was looking at your clipped mystery wire and I was wondering if perhaps that is supposed to lead to the horn? |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 06:45 am: |
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Does anyone know what thread is on the rear brake banjos? I'm going to convert to an SS rear line, and ill end up without the brake switch. I found several banjo bolt with switches just need a thread pitch. I'd assume 10mm. Anyone have info? |
S1owner
| Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 06:52 am: |
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Go with a venhill line. Very nice you arder what ever color line. Then the legnth and pic the fittings. Best thing these swivel so no worries on clamp position!!!! http://www.venhillusa.com/products/custom-brake-li ne-builder.html
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Egagnon086
| Posted on Monday, January 16, 2017 - 11:07 am: |
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Has anyone ever had an issue with a leaking break bleeder. The one on my rear brake looks to be leaking around the threads. I'll try a new bleeder and see if that helps. Also, My rocker boxes are leaking at the gaskets and the "push rod" tubes.
Do I have to remove the head to put new O-rings on the tubes? Also there what appears to be a leak near the clutch lever? Any ideas?
Anyone recommend a particular gasket set? |
Buellrobot
| Posted on Monday, January 16, 2017 - 11:39 am: |
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Brake bleeder screw (front and rear) part #: H0022.F You could also try some teflon tape to see if that stops up the leak at the bleeder. For shift shaft seal, see: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/66 9258.html?1330192357 The primary peek cover has a big o-ring around the cover and small o-rings for each screw. Don't over-tighten those screws though! |
Upthemaiden
| Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 08:46 am: |
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It's hard to tell from that picture if the shift shaft seal is leaking, or if the oil seeping out of the inspection cover is coming out of the bolt hole, into the crack, running down to the lowest point of the cover, and then dripping down all over by where the shift shaft comes out. I'd try replacing the inspections cover o-ring and cleaning up the primary cover to before you pull the whole cover off. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 09:21 am: |
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The original rocker box gaskets are paper, and useless. They WILL leak. New OEM replacements are metal. Are you sure the pushrod tubes are leaking? Could it be from the rocker box gasket? |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 09:38 am: |
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I've taken the rocker box covers off and found the gaskets to be leaking, I'm going to order the cometic kit to redo them. The pushrod tubes have oil on them and pooling at the bottom. Could just be the rocker gaskets. The bike only has ~8K miles on it so very likely the OEM gaskets are in it. Can I remove the entire front rocker while the engine is in the frame or does the motor have to get dropped. The rocker covers were a pain to get out. Any pointers |
Akbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 10:54 am: |
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Getting the covers off is the only really fiddly bit of the job. Once the cover and spacer are off, there is enough room to remove the rocker boxes. One thing to note, be sure the cyl you are working on is at TDC on the compression stroke. That way both valves are closed on that cyl, removing as much pressure on the valve assy as possible. And the factory service manual is a must. Hope this helps, Dave |
Blks1l
| Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2017 - 02:08 pm: |
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Might also look at the cylinder base gaskets they may be leaking, that may be the oil you see around the pushrod tube bases. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2017 - 08:27 pm: |
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Alright guys. Putting new rocker gaskets on, and changed the hoses. Now how much oil do I put in this thing. Like where on the dip stick. Or maybe I should just go ahead and do a full filter change while I'm at it. What's the oil capacity, the manual says 2 arts. That sound right. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 07:49 am: |
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2 quarts? 2,5 quarts including the oil filter that's what the manual says. The primary has 1 quart but the engine. Follow the manual. |