Author |
Message |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 10:30 pm: |
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When breaking in a new motor, I usually do a conventional oil change at 40-50 miles, another conventional oil change at about 650, and then switch to synthetic at about 1300 miles. In this case, I've got 1000 miles on the bike (okay, not an 1125--it's a Vmax), and am taking it on a 600-mile trip next weekend. I won't be able to put any more miles on it in the meantime (sent the ECU off to be reflashed and will get it back just in time). The break-in oil is 10W40 conventional oil and has probably already sheared down to a high 30-weight. I'm sure it will be well into 30-weight by the time I'm most of the way on my trip, and that seems a little too thin for a 170hp bike in the August heat. Do I: 1) Switch to synthetic now? 2) Drain and refill with fresh 10W40 conventional oil at 1000 miles and switch to synthetic at 1600 miles? 3) Leave the conventional oil in and switch to synthetic at 1600 miles? You guys seem more likely to have informed opinions on the subject, hence me not asking on the Vmax forum. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 10:44 pm: |
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You're thinking too much. Change it before the trip, ride it like you stole it. I firmly believe *FRESH* oil is the most important part of the equation. I also use the Motoman break-in process (ride it like you stole it), and have a bone-stock 1125CR that dynoe'd 143.18hp / 81.22 tq (uncorrected) at the rear tire, after the break-in period. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 11:07 pm: |
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The 1190s come from the factory with Amsoil synthetic. |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 11:40 pm: |
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Yeah, I've been riding it like I stole it since I got it.. Motoman, as you guessed, Ratbuell. The engine is probably pretty-well broken in by this point. Froggy, did EBR do in-house break-in on the 1190 motors? |
Snacktoast
| Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 11:54 pm: |
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No, they did not do any break-in before the bikes shipped. They ran the completely assembled bikes on a set of rollers before they were crated, but that didn't put much load on the engine. |
Duanelr
| Posted on Thursday, July 30, 2015 - 12:13 am: |
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I agree with Ratbuell, "You're thinking too much. Change it before the trip, ride it like you stole it." I've broken in a few new engines, never considered this minutia, and they've been fine. |
Mrlogix
| Posted on Thursday, July 30, 2015 - 12:43 am: |
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I won't be able to put any more miles on it in the meantime (sent the ECU off to be reflashed and will get it back just in time). brave soul, take a trip on a fresh reflash |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 03:35 pm: |
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The flashed ECU just showed up today so I'll have a few days to put some more miles on the Vmax and test out the new tune. I'm having to resist the urge to leave work a couple hours early to go home and install the ECU! |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 10:06 pm: |
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The only reason to use conventional oil for break in is because it's cheaper and you're throwing it out after 500 miles. Switch to synthetic any time. |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 04:31 pm: |
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What Hootowl said |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Tuesday, August 04, 2015 - 04:47 pm: |
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Hootowl, that runs contrary to "conventional wisdom" which says that regular oil doesn't lubricate as well and therefore allows the metal parts to "wear in" together better than if they were bathed in synthetic. Of course the manufacturers whose vehicles come from the factory with synthetic oil might beg to differ with that, and I haven't done any scientific research to see about conventional vs. synthetic for break-in. No argument that regular oil is cheaper--it's under $20 for a 5-quart jug of 10W40, compared to $12+ per quart of the fancy synthetic stuff! |
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