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Johnod
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 12:39 am: |
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I keep reading about kickstand problems. From what I can see the bike leans rather far over, why is that a problem. People mentioning the wind blowing bike over how is that possible with the bike leaned over on the stand that far? If it was upright like my BMW I could see the problem. Could someone explain this? Thanks |
Rex
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 01:25 am: |
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I am sure there is a thread on this one. The S2 kickstand leans very far over. Sometimes, the little bracket wears off, and the kick stand can fold up and bike fall over. Put your S2 in first gear when you park it, so it will not roll off of the kickstand..... |
Court
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 07:44 am: |
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Info on S2 changes throughout production. Author unknown. 1. Different timing cover, dash plate, a spacer between the front caliper and front fork and early Buell style rear mono-shock with remote adjusters for both rebound and compression. These items were shown in Cycle World magazine 10/93 and I don't believe were on any of the production models. 2. Wiring routed through the handlebars. I have never seen this but it was mentioned extensively in the directions included with the touring handlebars. 3. CNC machined rather than cast front fork triple tree. I know that this ran through at least 1995 V.I.N. number 416, but I don't know how much higher. 4. Lower triple tree change with replacement of the bolt that secures the top triple tree. This can be identified by the hollow I.D. of the lower triple tree shaft. This took effect with 1995 V.I.N. 817. 5. Different style shifter lever. The early style lever was just about ninety degree angle, the later lever has a curved vertical leg. This took effect with 1995 V.I.N. 979. 6. Air grill screens. Both the front fairing and the rear seat fairing grills changed from galvanized twisted grills to smooth stainless grills. I know this took effect in 1995 but I don't know at what V.I.N.. 7. Frame change. A lug was added to the neck of the frame for the front fairing stabilizer mount. I believe this took effect in 1995 but I don't know at what V.I.N.. 8. Rear belt guard teflon wear strip. Purpose was to prevent wear between the belt guard and the right hand frame diagonal brace. Part number 47930-96Y. I know this went into effect around 9/95 but I don't know at what V.I.N.. 9. Front isolator washer change. The new style has beveled sides to prevent contact with the back of the frame neck under exuberant usage of the throttle. This took effect with 1995 models, V.I.N. 1242. 10. Seat lock tangs. There have been two changes both for better seat security. The first was just a longer tang, this was 1995 V.I.N. 1293. The second has a ninety degree bend on the end. This was 1996 V.I.N. 74 for S2 & 172 for S2T. 11. Seats. There has been three seat changes I am aware of. The first style is shown in Cycle World dated 10/93, where the seat looks a whole lot like a Corbin seat (they supplied the seats for the earlier Buells). The second had a fiberglass bottom pan and I know it went through 1995 V.I.N. 416. The third change was a plastic seat bottom with another securing point for the seat attached to the bottom which hooked to a bar attached to the rear seat fairing. This took effect in 1996 with V.I.N. 74 for S2 & 172 for S2T's. 12. Windshield change. The original windshield was acrylic manufactured by Gustafsson and was embossed with his logo. The second was not marked and was very wavy (Lexan) in appearance. I believe this took effect with the 1996 model year. 13. Rear fender assembly was changed with the 1996 models with a painted unit rather than carbon fiber showing the weave. 14. Front fender changes. There have been three front fender changes. The first change was the elimination of the speedometer cable clip mounting holes which initiated the use of a wire retainer part number 67368-95Y. This went into effect with 1995 V.I.N. 1337. The second change was a restyled front fender which eliminated the access holes for the lower mount screws, this fender is also quite a bit lighter because I understand it is made of plastic rather than fiberglass. I believe this came about with the 1996 models. 15. Front brake. The original style disc bolted against the carrier, the later disc bolted inline with the carrier. The parts of the units are not interchangeable and I believe they came about with the 1996 models. 16. Kickstand/frame/isolator/swingarm mount. The later style has a steel plug and sleeve for the kickstand to rest against when it is extended. This came about sometime in the 1996 model year. 17. Timing procedure. All 1996 Buells should be timed with the engine at idle (950-1050 RPM) and timing is done using the side by side double dots. The 1995 Buells are timed at 1650-1950 RPM and use the single dot as viewed in the timing plug hole. This came about because a different ignition module was fitted to the 95 California bikes and all 96 models. The connector is 7 pin on the 95 and uses the M curve, The 96 and Ca 95 is 8 pin connector with a Q curve. The connectors are not interchangeable. 18. Front exhaust pipe. The loop of the pipe was tightened for easier viewing of the timing plug hole. I believe this was initiated in 1996. 19. Mirror fastener spacers. They are to provide additional support through the fiberglass front fairing. This started in 1996 with V.I.N. 166 for S2 & 69 for the S2T. 20. Headlight adjuster. A nut was placed on the adjusting screw so that the headlight could be adjusted without front fairing removal. Part number 67323-94Y. This took effect in 1996 with V.I.N. 74 for the S2 & 167 with the S2T. 21. Carburetors. The California bikes used a Quik Silver Carburetor made by Edelbrock. S2 & S2T service bulletins and alerts 1. issued 12/94; Front brake braided hose, Problem; Cracks from over swaging of the end fittings. Fix; Replace hose, new hose identified by blue band near the caliper end. 2. issued 3/95; Mirror stabilizer, Problem; Cracking of the front fairing supports at the welds. Fix; Installation of a stabilizer bar i e third mounting point, located between the frame neck and dash support. Also check idle RPM per factory specs (below 1000 RPM with the enrichment knob in). 3. issued 3/95; Vehicle ID number goofs. Problem; The factory got a couple of 5's & S's mixed up in the tenth character of the V.I.N. Fix; A new ID plate was riveted in place. 4. issued 4/95; The PM wheels not properly labeled. Problem; no label as per D.O.T. Fix;Install sticker provided by the Buell factory. 5. issued 6/95; Fuel cell leakage. Problem; Fuel leaks or imploding tanks, either flawed manufacture or vent check valve assembled wrong. Fix; Dealer replacement with pressure tested unit for bikes manufactured prior to 5/95. 6. issued 8/95; A reissue of 2. Problem; Because so many dealers didn't take it seriously. Fix; installation of the stabilizer bar. 7. issued 11/95; Touring handlebar recall. Problem; Handlebar breakage, not just stock S2T bars but any touring bars sold to S2 owners. Fix; Replacement of the handlebars. Replacement bars can be identified by the lower several inches being crimped where it touches the collar. The original bars were notch cut and then welded to the collar. 8. issued 12/95; Reissue of 1. Problem; Dealer noncompliance. Fix; Replace brake line. 9. Handle bar replacement; Problem; Some S2T's were shipped from the factory with S2 instead of S2T touring handlebars due to shortage from 7. Fix; Install proper S2T touring handlebars. Also there were 2 service bulletins/ advisories on the CA only bikes; 1. issued 3/95 Ignition timing/starting procedures. Problem; Differences encountered because of the Quicksilver carbs. 2. issued 11/95 Quicksilver carb problems. Problem; Throttle shaft interference with the possibility of sticking throttle. Fix; Replace throttle shaft. There was one urgent bulletin dated 10/28/94; Misrouted oil lines for bikes numbered 300-434. Problem; Oil lines switched Fix; Check for proper hookup by disconnecting the line to the oil pump and making sure it would drain the oil tank. Also keep in mind with the latest recalls; 1. Rear shock replacement for corrosion problem with the forward end being aluminum with a steel bushing. 2. Rear swingarm replacement due to cracks at the welds. 3. Fuel tank retainer installation to keep the tank on the bike in a wreak. 4. Fuel vent replacement due to possible clogging problem. |
Lynrd
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 09:55 am: |
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Great info, Court. Re: The kickstand - you'll read lots of info on the problems and potential solutions. Yes, it leans far over, but that is not a problem so much as a PITA. The real problem is that the kickstand has no positive locking mechanism and it's really easy for the bike to roll forward and fall off the kickstand. Like Rex says - put it in gear if you are going to put it on a kickstand - never neutral. That means, of course, you are never allowed to let the bike idle to warm up on the kickstand. Parking facing uphill is not a bad idea either. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 08:09 pm: |
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Great info, Court. Thanks. As to the kickstand: If I ever have occasion to have my bike in a shop, I tape an 11 by 8 piece of paper to the gastank saying, "ALWAYS put the bike in gear and roll forward til the cogs engage or it WILL fall over." This is why left side mirrors are rarer than hens' teeth. |
4speeder
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 08:27 pm: |
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My bike nearly rolled forward and fell over several times while idling on a flat surface while I was letting it warm up and I was putting on my riding gear. I finally took the kickstand off and cold bent it on the hydraulic press so the foot of the stand is past center and the bike cannot roll forward without it having to "lift" itself and lean to the right to make the stand go past center the other direction. No rocket science here, my stand is now the way it should have been designed in the first place. When folded up it hangs no lower than it did when it was straight. I also bent it slightly to the side so the bike wouldn't lean so far over as it did before I fixed the stand.
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4speeder
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 08:28 pm: |
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4speeder
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 08:29 pm: |
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Johnod
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 09:25 pm: |
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That looks pretty solid to me. Simple too, I like simple. |
Phelan
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 09:31 pm: |
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I'm not sure what was done to my kickstand before I picked up the bike but it doesn't have a bend and doesn't have the "S2 lean" like my old S2. I think it was modified at the pivot. The side plate is stock. |
Screamer
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 10:30 pm: |
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Court, I think Todd Williams was the author - for at least the first 20 or so. Good info... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 10:43 pm: |
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Phelan - post a pic? |
Phelan
| Posted on Monday, November 03, 2014 - 11:03 pm: |
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Amount the bike leans Kickstand pivot (sorry for dirt and lack of light)
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Screamer
| Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2014 - 08:23 am: |
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It's a little hard to to tell by the photo, but on Phelan's, it looks like a washer has been placed between the kickstand leg and the bottom part of the clevis on the side plate. Adding a washer on either side of the clevis may reduce some of the sidestand-to-side plate fitment play caused by wear - which in turn, makes the bike stand more upright. Adding the washer on the bottom side (if it's too large in diameter) may prevent the square end of the sidestand from locking in to the square receiving notch of the side plate. The two most common problems I've encountered are the notch in the aluminum side plate wears out (loss of locking function) and the sidestand bends - increasing the lean. |
Screamer
| Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2014 - 08:34 am: |
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It's a little hard to tell but it looks like on Phelan's bike a washer has been placed under the sidestand at the clevis. Adding a washer to either side can help reduce the play caused by wear - making the bike stand more upright. Adding a washer on the bottom side ( if it's too large in diameter) can prevent the square end of the sidestand from locking into the square receiving notch in the side plate - and you may lose the locking function. Wearing of the "notch" and the sidestand bending (adding to the lean) and the bumper wearing allowing sidestand-to-swingarm contact - have been the most common S2 sidestand issues for me. |
Trouble_enabler
| Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2014 - 10:35 am: |
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Just putting the washer on the inside will quickly cause the washer to smashed into the shape of the pocket. I filled my pocket with JB weld putty (not the liquid tube stuff) and then put the washer on the inside. This made all the difference in the world. Takes SO much less effort to remove the bike off the stand (I almost threw it over onto the right side a couple of times because I was so used to the effort required to removed it off the leaning stand. It also makes it MUCH more stable while on the side stand as there is not as much force pushing it forward. It even allowed me to park on slight downhill slants with no issue (which I was NEVER able to do before). I believe if the top return spring mount is moved forward, increasing the tension on the down stand, that might be the finishing touch to holding it in firmly in place when down when combined with the filled pocket fix. I didn't get a chance to try this before I sold my S2 :-( http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/728602.html?1388181805 |
Screamer
| Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2014 - 06:33 pm: |
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Sorry for the double post, sometimes my I-pad and the router will not cooperate. |
S2forever
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2014 - 10:57 am: |
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I always put it in gear, roll forward till it stops, let it lean on down hill, behold the ”different” buell look and feel happy. Why worry? |
Phelan
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2014 - 11:54 am: |
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I never leave my bike in gear because over time it can leave some nasty burrs on the teeth of the gears. |
Lynrd
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2014 - 09:57 pm: |
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I always leave my bike in gear because I don't want another broken fairing and mirror. |
Jolly
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2014 - 12:12 pm: |
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I went the hard road (short hand that's read "expensive") and designed new side plates (CNC)for newer style kickstands to correct the lean (nuisance), and brought the kickstand over center (problem). Now I have absolutely no concerns about leaving the bike idling while it warms up and I get ready. I've also grabbed a hold of the tail and shook the bike while its leaning on the kick stand to prove how stable it is... but its expensive, |
Rex
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2014 - 12:13 pm: |
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One of my s2's has the new sideplates with a regular m2 stand. the other s2 is stock. I want to get a side stand bent the way the one above is done. I just do not have the equipment to do that. I have the side stand and would pay shipping to and from if someone is able to do the bend for me. REX |
Rex
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2014 - 12:15 pm: |
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One of my S2's has the new sideplate and an M2 stand....works great. The other S2 is stock. I would love to get a side stand bent like that for the second s2. I just do not have the equipment to do that. I have the stand and would be willing to pay shipping to and from, if someone could do the bend? REX |
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