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Brother_in_buells
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 12:12 pm: | 
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That looks super clean! ,nice work
And about the piston rings ,are they new or did you re-used them? |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 02:04 pm: |
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"Opinions?"
I would say use the best quality and/or upgraded parts, within reason, you can get with the aim to not need to do any other work later on. Are the bores in spec, IE How much wear is on them and do they need over sized piston rings.
Great work Dean. It is good to see someone who knows what they are doing. Rare these days. |
Motorbike
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 03:54 pm: |
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I do like the black cylinder fins. Is that just high temp engine paint? Looks like you do very nice work! Thanks for posting, love the pics! |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2014 - 04:44 am: |
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Again thanks for the compliments guys.  It's funny I almost never wash this bike but when it comes to stuff like this I go nuts with details.
I used standard bore HD rings from American Sport Bike, checked the gaps at 1/2" and 2" into the bores and they measured between "new" and well under "service limit" specs in my FSM so I hope that works. With 90K on this engine I would have rather bored up a size but $$$ is definitely the issue right now and again this is just a freshen up.
I painted the barrels with Plastikote flat black engine paint over a light Plastikote engine primer, the combo has worked well for me in the past on bare metal once heated and I baked the jugs in the oven one day when SWMBO was away long enough for me to air the place out. Next time its apart for its eventual overbore I'll take the finish down to the metal and do something more durable.
I would say use the best quality and/or upgraded parts, within reason, you can get with the aim to not need to do any other work later on. Precisely my position on this project, and the lifters are a good example. According to Al at American Sport Bike stock lifters are fine for the street and I agree, but you can't get "B" lifters now from dealers I guess and lifters (and oil leaks and carbon piles etc.) is why I opened it up. The HD forums are full of complaints about the "C" replacements but not a lot of objectivity other than "they're crap" which doesn't help much.
So I buy the above Mellings because the word is Chevy lifters work so why not, and the FedMoguls because that's apparently what HD is using now. And then today I found this:
Checking my own stockers and new Mellings I find this info to be correct, the stock oil hole is larger than the Melling. So I think I'll disassemble and measure these things closely, and in the meantime install the horrid "C" lifters for now. |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 03:29 pm: |
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Ok so I've decided to use the Melling JB-2079 lifters after doing some measuring. There are only three differences in dimensions between my HD B lifters and the Chevy Mellings and two of those could be wear related on the stock B lifter. As posted the GM lifter has a reduced size oil hole in the pushrod cup but since the cups measure identically otherwise I'm going to swap them for the stock cups which are broken in to the pushrods anyway.
The other differences could be the reason for my engine noisiness. Both internal springs measured significantly (0.02") shorter with the check ball spring very weak in comparison to the newer part.
Secondly, the roller clearance to the body on the B was .017" which compares to the measurement of the Sealed Power lifter, as opposed to .012" for the Melling. This is one of the issues the HD forum members complain about with the C lifters, excessive roller play, and I don't know whether my B lifters' roller clearance was due to 90K wear or not, but it is what it is. So the Mellings are going in and I'm comfortable with that, and the fact that I'll save $80 over factory replacement C's. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Sunday, January 12, 2014 - 04:48 pm: |
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Let us know how it works, thanks for sharing your research! |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 04:12 pm: |
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It's ALIVE!
No time to post pics up to this point, a few niggling little issues getting it back together this past weekend. This morning I hooked up enough stuff to make it run, sucker fired RIGHT up even though it was clattering like I left a socket in there. I'd put together the new Mellings modified with the stock cups with assembly lube only and not prefilled (differing opinions abound), and after a few minutes running the noise settled down to what it sounded like before all this, and I was discouraged...
Then... SILENCE! No clattering, smooth normal shaking, nice quick revs. Guess it took about 10 minutes to pump them all up, hope it stays that way. Can't wait to finish reassembly and ride!  |
Mnrider
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 04:15 pm: |
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Hughlysses
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 04:37 pm: |
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Then... SILENCE! No clattering, smooth normal shaking, nice quick revs. Guess it took about 10 minutes to pump them all up, hope it stays that way.
That's awesome! Of course, I think if my valve train noise suddenly disappeared, I'd think something was seriously wrong!
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Xbimmer
| | Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 01:04 pm: |
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Of course, I think if my valve train noise suddenly disappeared, I'd think something was seriously wrong!
 I don't mean SILENT silent, just much better. There's still the mechanical thrashing going on which I like about these engines. My pessimistic ear still thinks it hears something but if I park it and remove my helmet it still sounds good, and every startup since I got it running reveals no leaked down lifters so I'm good with that.
Put about 100 miles on it so far varying the cylinder pressures, no evidence of leaks yet. For now I've looped the end of my breather hose back into the airbox adjacent to the outside of the filter, no evidence of puke out the hose so I'm thinking the rings/valves are sealing well. Did a TPS reset yesterday and bumped the timing up a bit back to the stock marks, she's running good. Time to go for a ride!
Rock Store next w/e! |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 02:20 pm: |
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Well crud... have an oil leak. Looks like I pinched an o-ring on the front pushrod cover. Gotta go in again, at least everything's clean already. Might buy some new slugs while I'm at it since I'm going to have to bite the bullet on new gaskets again. Arrrgh. |
Woodnbow
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 06:10 pm: |
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Hmmm, that bites!
I really liked the looks of the Buell Pushrod covers. But I've pinched those o-rings before on big twins and it was very simple to replace them. Now I'm not so sure but if I had to pull the top end I'd replace the Buell covers with the HD parts and EZ adjustable pushrods... That or be VERY careful with that part of the reassembly! |
Kaikoura
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 07:30 pm: |
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Can one of you fine fellows point me to that reroute thread mod..THX |
Kaikoura
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 08:09 pm: |
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Beautiful work Xbimmer! |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, July 21, 2014 - 01:15 pm: |
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Any updates XBimmer? My motor is opened up for a rattle. How did the GM lifters work? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, July 21, 2014 - 01:29 pm: |
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BTW, Autozone has those lifters for $10 each, though they don't appear to be widely stocked in stores. |
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