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Ironken
| Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 09:12 pm: |
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Anybody running an X-1 (02) with the Buell race ECM, Air Filter Kit and D&D Slip-on? I just got all of these parts and wanted to know what to expect and anything that I should look out for on the install (other than zeroing the TPS). Any comments would be greatly appreciated |
Udholmdk
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 10:24 am: |
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hallo there. I have seen a lot of discusion about an exhaust for Buell, Named as D&D. What is that,where can I buy, and do they have a web-adress. Thank you very much all you Buelligans. Best regards....Jan Udholm/Denmark |
Ironken
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 04:51 pm: |
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Hey Udholmdk, I just purchased a D&D exhaust for my '02 X-1W. I am waiting for it to come back from the ceramic coater (D&D states very plainly that the stock satin black powdercoat will burn away with time, they chose not to ceramic coat to keep the pricing competitive). I have yet to install this jewel, but, will keep you posted as to the sound and performance. The slip-on that I have looks to be bullet proof. It is constructed of mild steel for durability reasons and is said to be indestructable and requires no packing. A big plus in my book since I owned a Vance&Hines ('97 S-1) and the packing blew out in short order. Try contacting d&dexhaust.com for anymore info. Pretty good people to deal with! Kenny |
Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 04:57 pm: |
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I'm very happy with mine. 20K trouble free miles on the header and exhaust. |
Ironken
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 08:34 pm: |
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Hey Hoot, how does it sound? Is it as loud as everybody says? Are you using the Race ECM? I'm glad to hear that 20K later you are still satisfied.......Kenny |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, January 12, 2004 - 01:15 am: |
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It's loud, but not raspy. Very deep, very rich. Yes, I am using the race ECM. D&D dyno tuned the pipe (full kit, header and exhaust can) to use the race ECM. I had a power commander on it for a while, but even with the thing set to all zeros (no fuel modification) it made it run crappy. If you have head work done, you'll need one, and you'll need to get it dyno tuned. I hear good things about them if they are set up properly. I don't have any need for one. It's in a shoe box in the garage. Maybe when I finally need to rebuilt my top end (hey, as long as I have the heads off...) I'll start using it again. Battle2Win did a dyno test on the D&D slip on in their Winter 2002 issue. They didn't print the dyno sheet for some reason, but they gave some numbers. Stock: 4500RPM=63.8 lbs/ft D&D slip on: 4500RPM=80.2 lbs/ft for a 26% increase in the midrange. The D&D slip on makes better power than the stock muffler between 3K and 5.5K. Outside that, the stock can beat it. The same muffler combined with the D&D header supposedly makes more power across the board even against the Buell race header and muffler, which is a damn good setup. Here's what they had to say about the noise: "It's definitely an authoritative sound -somewhat similar to the Pro-Series muffler- but one you can live with." Hope this helps. Jeff |
Ironken
| Posted on Monday, January 12, 2004 - 02:35 pm: |
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Hey thanks Jeff for all of the good info. You have answered all of my questions......Ride safe, ride hard. Kenny |
Cowtown
| Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2004 - 01:20 pm: |
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Ken, Living in Fort Worth I of course have the D&D full system. It's built like a tank, loud and I like it. When I go down the street, dogs run and kids hide. The headers are stainless and I haven't notice any discolor on the can. I also run the Race ECM, K&N Filter and heated O2 sensor. |
Ironken
| Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2004 - 06:01 pm: |
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Thanks Cowtown, tell me more about the "heated," O2 sensor. I think that I will be pleased from what you all have said......Doin' burnouts and scarin' old ladies....my specialty! Thanks, Kenny |
Cowtown
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2004 - 03:26 pm: |
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Kenny, First let me give credit to other Buellians for most of the information I’m passing on. I hope I say this correctly; a heated O2 sensor speeds up the varying data read by the ECM for processing. IMO the best advantage to a heated O2 sensor is the bike warms up much faster, the fuel leans out quicker. A Standard Motor Products SG27 is what I used, about $50.00. They are warranted so keep the receipt. I have chopped my fender so I used the license plate light wires for the heating element since the ignition key activates it. I bought an O2 connector for a 90-91 Thunderbird and wired it to the bike. This way the O2 sensor can be easily disconnected or replaced. If you’re interested ping me offline and I can tell you how to do it without cutting any wires on the bike. Paul
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