Author |
Message |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 10:16 am: |
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Jeez Hoot! Where were you when I was looking for a Blast for my daughter!
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Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 10:28 am: |
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I bought it for my wife (now ex-wife) for Christmas a few years ago. She HAD to have one. She put literally 1 mile on it. In the driveway. It sat for months at a time. I put 500 miles on it just so I could do the 500 mile service, and get it out of the way. I figured I might as well let someone use it. I'm still paying for the damn thing, and I owe more than it's worth. edited by hootowl on July 23, 2003 |
Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 10:30 am: |
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Reep, Here's the address: Paul Teays 2887 NW Overlook Drive Hillsboro OR, 97124 Let me know where to paypal you for parts and shipping. Thanks man...
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Sparky
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 12:04 pm: |
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When my XB9R sensor blew last month the dealer called Buell Customer Svc about an upgraded sensor. He said there are no plans in the works for existing Firebolts!!? That kinda goes against the rumors floating around here, doesn't it? I don't know who he talked to or if that is still the current situation, but I hope BMC does something positive about it. My replacement sensor blew yesterday after only about 6 wks. But hey, since the dealer honors a 90 day warranty on P/L they provide, I'll let them take care of it, for now. Reep, would the regulator/filter assy still be effective if it were installed upstream of the sensor, say in the main harness up by the instruments? I'm tracing wires on the schematic looking for an alternate location to insert the regulator. Also, would it help if the sensor wires were covered with a grounded shield? This might provide a degree of protection from EMI like from the starter cable that practically touches it. Sparky |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 12:59 pm: |
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As long as that line does not feed anything else, it is probably fine. If that line feeds other things, you will be knocking the voltage they get down from 13.8V or so to 5V, which may or may not make things stop working. The filter could be nuked if too much current is drawn as well... for packaging purposes I did not put a heatsink on it, which limits how much power it can handle. I always mounted it downstream of the deutsch connector on the replacement speedo sensor, that way the bike can be returned to stock with a new sensor. There are already a couple of these filters on firebolts, and they did it that way, so there is a way to squeeze it in there. There are installed pictures around here somewhere... I don't think EMI has been a factor in the "terminated" sensors, though a grounded shield never hurts. I think they are good old fashioned spikes coming down the V+ line, though I never captured one of the critters. |
Bigfanof6
| Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 01:21 pm: |
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Hey Guys. I just read the last several posts and I have a couple of questions. The speedo needle on my 01 M2 (7000 miles)is fluctuating all over the place. One second I'm doing 20, then 60, then 80, then 40....Is this the sensor? Should I just go to my local crook and give him 50 bucks for a new one? Whats this I'm reading about a filter? Is this to keep the new sensor from blowing? Can I buy one? Thanks in advance for the help. Chris |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 03:03 pm: |
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Try pulling and cleaning the metal shavings from the end of the sensor. The normal failure mode is just dead, not misreading. Sometimes they come back for a day or so, but generally they just die and stay dead. So you might just have too much metal stuck to the magnet in the end of the sensor. |
Bigfanof6
| Posted on Sunday, July 27, 2003 - 06:45 pm: |
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Thanks, Bill. I cleaned it and it definately helped. It still isn't perfect, but then again, if it was perfect it wouldn't be a Buell. Thanks again. Chris |
X1glider
| Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2003 - 11:13 am: |
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Anyone have any problems with the odometer/trip meter on the tube framers? My X1 trip meter keeps resetting itself, mostly when I restart the bike, but sometimes while it's running. Changed out the speedo unit and the problem is still there. Harness checks out ok. Maybe another speedo unit will do the trick. Good thing I have an extended warranty. If anyone knows anything, e-mail me thru my profile, I won't be on here again for a LONG time. |
99x1
| Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2003 - 07:03 pm: |
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Scoped the power to the speedo sensor today, with / without Reepicheep's (Bill's) regulator. The sensor on my '99X1 is fed from the same point that feeds the ignition coils. The ignition causes ~20 volt relative spikes. No high frequency interference could be seen. With the regulator in place, the ignition pulse is completely suppressed - as expected. Bikes with poor spark plugs/cables/coils would probably see much higher spiking. (Trace is 2.4 secs with bike idling at 900 RPM). |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2003 - 09:35 pm: |
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Awsome! Thanks 99X1... wish I had a better scope. The filter is *way* overkill in like three different ways. High of 19.6 volts positive, and -19.2 negative? No wonder. Those sensors are only rated for max of 15v as I recall, and completely unprotected from reverse voltages. It's a wonder any of them survive... Thanks again! Bill |
Hdbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 04:49 pm: |
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Quick question here as I'm new to the buell(mechanical) scene. My speedometer went out on me while driving. I have a 96 S2T. I've been reading all these posts about speedo sensor's and such, but I don't believe mine has one. It should just run off the speedometer cable correct??? Any help on this would be appeciated. Thanks!! |
Apex1
| Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2003 - 06:46 pm: |
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HDBuell, I'm pretty sure that the S2's used a gear driven cable off the front wheel for the speedo (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here). Check out the gear drive unit and cable end near the front hub as the possible cause of the speedo failure. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 12:19 am: |
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Yep! The S2's are mechanical drive off the front wheel. |
Mikej
| Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 12:45 pm: |
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Hd, Check the speedo cable, they break when they haven't been lubed in awhile. Most don't get lubed at all. How many miles are on the bike? |
Hdbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2003 - 06:23 pm: |
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That's what I thought was the problem, but wasn't sure. The bike has about 30,000 miles on it. I know it was taken well care of before I bought it, because my buddy I bought it off of is a huge bike enthusiast. Thanks for all your help! Ben |
Lake_bueller
| Posted on Friday, November 21, 2003 - 02:25 pm: |
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Okay, I'm running out of ideas (and patience) with this problem. I just had my third speedo cable brake. The last 2 have been within 50 miles of each other. Anyone have any ideas on what causing this problem? Here's what I know for sure: 1) The bike is a 1998 S3T. 2) The cables are braking just past the point where it goes from a solid sleeve to the cable housing. This is about 4-6" outside the speedo unit. 3) The drive from the wheel appears to be spinning freely (makes sense because the cable is actually braking). 4) The speedo does work (at least for about 25 miles at a time ). Thanks for any help!!! |
Bigfanof6
| Posted on Friday, November 21, 2003 - 03:55 pm: |
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Lake, It's got to be your speedo locking up. Get a new speedometer with your next cable, and I'll bet it doesn't do it anymore. I had a Trans Am years ago that went through the same thing. It was the cable going into the cruise transducer that kept breaking. Turns out the transducer was locking up. It would work fine for awhile, (50 miles or so) and then the needle would jump around a little (for a split second) and fall to zero. You might try spraying some good lube in the back of the old speedo first, if you want to risk another cable. Let us know what you find. Chris |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, December 14, 2003 - 07:21 am: |
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Thanks Cyclone1 (Frank) for finding the new part number for the factory filtered speedo sensor... >>The speedo sensor "kit" provides instructions and required parts to re-wire the existing VSS circuit to a 5VDC FILTERED power supply<< Part# Y0199.K Fits 99 up tubers, and all 03 XB's
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Sparky
| Posted on Sunday, December 14, 2003 - 01:06 pm: |
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Lake, make sure you lube the new cable before installing it. Was the front wheel removed prior to this speedo cable problem? Twice I've had shops forget to reinstall 1 of the 2 axle spacers causing the speedo drive unit to eventually bind and shear off the drive tang. Although you mentioned the drive unit seems fine, something is amiss, and this is one more thing to check. |
Randy_spann
| Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 11:19 am: |
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I need to buy a "Allegro ATS660LSB" - my 2000 M2 just blew the speedo sensor. Newark says "only for existing customers". |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 02:08 pm: |
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Interesting. Anyway, by the time you are done drilling, gluing, and soldering, you might as well just buy the new (corrected) factory part. Or get the old factory part (preferably cheap) and slap a 5v regulator on the power feed, or just reroute the power feed to come from the ECM supply (which appears to be regulated already) instead of direct from the battery. I am still running my "rev 0" filter on my Cyclone, a registered serial speedo sensor killer. It is simply a diode and a coil. It has worked well for 20,000 miles now (though I would recommend just running the regulator). |
Randy_spann
| Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 02:30 pm: |
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Thanks Reepicheep - new to the site, and hard to trace down the latest info on what works - don't happen to have the new corrected factory part no.?? |
Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 03:59 pm: |
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new speedo sensor part number http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=215941#POST 215941 |
Randy_spann
| Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 04:38 pm: |
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Well Hootowl - I think your link is in error, it just brings me back to this same place. |
Mikej
| Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 04:41 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3594.html Top of the page: "Updated (5 volt regulated) speedo sensor part number: 74402-95B (part revised 04/11/2004). Should be around $75." |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 08:12 am: |
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This might help... Colin helpfully sent me this. It's not a perfect copy, but it is readable....
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Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 10:08 am: |
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Randy, that is correct. The part number is listed a few posts up. That link will take you directly to it. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 03:35 pm: |
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whoops. There were three pages. Here are all three together.
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Randy_spann
| Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2004 - 08:38 am: |
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Thanks Guys for all the help. Much appreciated. |
Hans
| Posted on Monday, September 13, 2004 - 03:41 pm: |
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With all the priorities, connected with moving to a new house, the building of Reepicheep`s voltage reducer for a new speedo sensor had finished before our moving out, but a neat housing. The toasted sensor was good enough to keep the hole closed. Last Saturday it was the time to blow fresh air into the cylinders after almost 5 months of complete rest. The engine fired after a few turns. Good. Tires on pressure and off we went. Riding without speedo gives me a feel of easiness and freedom but I don`t want to miss the trip meter, used as gas meter. WHAT? The thing worked and the speedo also. Remembered to have wiped off some black dirt from the sensor`s head after pulling it out. The point: It is indeed worth to try cleaning the sensor head when it stops working. It was in this case not more than a very thin black coating. Hans |
Steve_ga
| Posted on Friday, January 28, 2005 - 12:38 pm: |
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I have a 2002 cyclone and my speedometer is not working. Do I need to remove the transmission sprocket before removing the sensor? Or is there a way to remove it without removing the sprocket? Thanks Steve |
Davefl
| Posted on Friday, January 28, 2005 - 01:06 pm: |
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Steve, Take out the retaining bolt and the sensor will pull right out. Very simple and quick. |
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