| Author | Message | ||
     Bart02m2 |
Hoping someone can help me. I have an 01 M2 and the left fork member has a leak. That side of the fork tree is riding up way higher than the other side. I can tell after a heavy ride by looking at the shiny part of the fork slides. Front end feels twitchy too. I'd like refill my forks to even levels until I can take some downtime to have them repaired. I've never added fork oil or anything like that. The service manual wasn't very clear to me. Is this something I can do in my garage or do I just need to let the thing sit until I can get it down to the Harley shop (which this close to Sturgis is damn near impossible)?.. Thanks in advance, Bart | ||
| Bart02m2 |
Oh wait. Upon further inspection I noticed my front rubber engine mount/isolator has a 180 degree rip around the bold that runs through it. That might have something to do with the "twitchyness". My bike has about 6k on it. Par for the course? | ||
| Blake |
All you need to fill your forks is 5wt oil and a small tape measure or scale. Fill the leaking one to the same level as the good one. You will need to completely support the front of your bike (elsewhere than the front end) before removing the caps to the forks. The manual should tell you the proper level for filling the forks. Check the first page of the chapter if it doesn't tell you in the description of the procedure. One thing that you said is scaring me... "(The leaking) side of the fork tree is riding up way higher than the other side." That is just not possible unless your axle assembly is broken in two. The lower portions of the forks are held firmly by the axle; the tubes are held by the triple clamps. It's actually possible to run a set of forks with only one side containing the complete front suspension (one spring and damper assembly). Such a setup does produce some binding, but the average street rider would likely never notice it. RRW actually built such a bike and tested it on the track. It worked fine, but favored left turns over right turns or vice versa, due to the slight (one or two mm) difference in fork travel. The good news is that new fork seals are not a big deal. Shouldn't cost you too much and the dealer should be able to handle the job with ease. | ||
| Mikej |
If his triple tree clamp is loose on one side, or if one side grabbed a bind on a hard jar, one upper tube could be slid slightly higher up than the other. Then if the forks now extend fully or bottom fully it could cause some interesting riding since one side could continue slightly farther than the other inducing some unevenness (sp?) and fork flex. I've seen this on older dirt bikes where the rider got a little enthusiastic over jumps.  Both fork tubes should be even relative to each other in the triple tree clamps. Start there and with your isolator failure and see if the problem is cured. Replace the fork seals while you have things apart if one is leaking just to be double-sure. YMMV | ||
| Bart02m2 |
You know. I probably didn't engage my brain adequately before I described the fork situation. What you guys say makes perfect sense where the "one side riding higher" thing is concerned. I do appreciate the replies, and I'll follow up here when I have things back together, in case someone else has the same issue. | ||
| Bart02m2 |
Ok, I just checked with the local service dept. They are booked solid for a month because of Sturgis. SUCKS!!. I think I might try to replace my front isolator and seals myself. I don't know why a motorcycle event prevents my dealer from servicing my bike for a whole month - every year -, but oh well, must be the withdrawls. | ||
| Mikej |
"I don't know why a motorcycle event prevents my dealer from servicing my bike for a whole month - every year" Because every year the dealer has a whole slew of riders who wait until an event to schedule service for their bikes, so they backlog the shop schedule full of oil changes and tire changes and mirror changes and tire valve stem cap upgrades.  | ||
| Will |
Looking for information on how to convert a regular M2 to a M2 Low. Parts needed, prices, etc.... Thanks, Will | ||
| Aesquire |
Will, I have to get to work, But will post part#'s tonite. Simply. Fork tubes & internals, rear shock, sidestand, seat. Ideal solution may be to find a M2L owner willing to swap stuff who lives nearby. Where are you? your profile does not say. Pat (upstate NY w/M2L willing to swap (if shock updated)) | ||
| Will |
I'm in Sacramento, CA | ||
| Mikej |
Will, One of the Buell-aware people up in Auburn should be able to help identify the required parts and process. It sort of depends on how low you have to go, some people have been happy with just the low seat instead of all the rest. You might also try contacting Modesto. | ||
| Will |
I already bought the seat. I got short legs =(, I've already talked to the guys at Modesto Buell. Danny was helping me out. He said he wasn't 100% sure how it is done. My 5000 mile service is coming up and I plan on picking their brain when I get down there. I was hoping to run into someone on the boards that may have already done this conversion. =) edited by will on July 17, 2003 | ||
| S1joel |
To set my wife's 2002 M2 up for her we used a Westek Lowering Bracket and a shock from and M2 Low. It lowered the bike about 1.5 inches and allow's her to almost flat foot it. She's 5'5". Joel | ||
| Will |
I'm 5'8". hmmm...I will look into that. | ||
| Steveford |
Changing out the stock fork oil on my 02 X1W to 5W Kal Gard Smooth Stroke (225cc/leg) made a tremendous improvement in ride quality. The suspension now actually absorbs bumps instead of transmitting them directly to the rider. Whatever Showa had in there was just brutal. | ||
| Wman |
Can anyboby recomend were to have a 01 rear shock rebuilt? I don't know if race tech can do it or if I will have to wait forever for them to do it. | ||
| Henrik |
Wman: I usually turn to Traxxion Dynamics for all my suspension needs. They may be a bit more $$ than others, but they get the job done and do it well. Henrik | ||
| Wman |
Henrik, thanks I,ll give them a call. | ||
| Blackcatracing |
Any reason a Steel swing arm could not be mounted on a Race Only X1? Memory seems to recall that the only reason the aluminum arm came about was due to possible internal corrosion on street ridden bikes. Any input? Thanks | ||
| Rippin |
Tom, If you want that pulley I need your address? Ryan | ||
| Steveford |
Does anyone know exactly why Buell went with a Showa rear shock? | ||
| Josh_ |
HD's major multi-year contract. ok that's a guess | ||
| Nemo |
What about an M2 high. The M2 low is about 1.5 lower. Well what about a different shock mounting bracket that would allow us big boys to have the correct ride height and preload. The bracket would be shorter to raise the rear end. | ||
| Vindigni714 |
Can anyone tell me if a steel swingarm can be replaced with a aluminum one? I'd like to replace my 96' S1's steel with a newer swingarm. If yes,how much weight difference is there? Also what year/model would be the best match? | ||
| Ara |
I believe that the alloy swingarm is actually heavier than the steel unit. Be advised that changing swingarms may also require changing shocks. | ||
| Used_96_s1 |
Can anyone tell me if a steel swingarm can be replaced with a aluminum one? I'd like to replace my 96' S1's steel with a newer swingarm. Excelent question; I've been contenplating the same thing. Without replacing the the rubber islolators for aluminum ones, is the gained rigidity a moot point? | ||
| Blackcatracing |
Guys: We have a 2001 Swing arm and shock that we will gladly sell for a mininium amount for the above projects. Give us a "ping" if you are interested | ||
| Blackcatracing |
Any of you LSR gurus have an opinion on how much to extend the rear swing arm for a LSR type bike? 2" (drag racing?) 4" to 6" We are ready to send the rear arm to Nillin racing and need some input prior to making a mistake. What was it that Mikey P says "Measure Once, cut three times?" Or something like that. Thanks | ||
| Fresh |
Hi all, Question, I bought a alu swingarm that was replaced for a custom swingarm on a X1 with only 750 miles and like to install on my 1998 S1 with recalled shock. I believe the shock is not a problem. My question is i had a closer look at the bearings and noticed that they are not a tight fit. If i stick my fingers in the bearing i can move it a bit around. Is this normal i thought that the bearings were press fitted in the swingarm. The rings on the outside of the bearings are tight fit, no movement at all. Anyone pls. confirm if i should scrap this swingarm or if this is normal. Also if someone can scan and email me the pages from the x1 manual concerning the swingarm i would appreaciate it very much. Thx in advance. Best regards, Fresh | ||
| Fuscat |
Hey guys I am going to be doing the 99+ aluminum swing arm upgrade. I found this one on ebay but it has a slight bit of damage to it. Can anyone tell me if this "scratch" will cause any stability issues? Its at a good price. Anyone know what the MSRP is on a new swingarm from Buell?? Thanks in advance.. P.S. I am not too worried about the appearence as I think when I do the upgrade I want to powder coat the swingarm black and I think that would make it not very noticable. Wonder if it can be filled??   |
