| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Can you tell I loaded the page and got distracted... Never mind. ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| 99x1 |
".. recommend the crescent wrench approach." I would guess axle torque maintains the proper preload on the bearings, and ensures the outer races don't spin as readily - therefore a socket and torque wrench would seem like a good idea? | ||
| Blake |
Axle preload clamps the bearings' inner races. But, though probably not an issue with outer races spinning in the wheel hub, you have a good point. | ||
| 99x1 |
From the NTN Bearing Handbook: 8.3.1 Purpose of preload Giving preload to a bearing results in the rolling element and raceway surfaces being under constant elastic compressive forces at their contact points. This has the effect of making the bearing extremely rigid so that even when load is applied to the bearing, radial or axial shaft displacement does not occur. Thus, the natural frequency of the shaft is increased, which is suitable for high speeds. Preload is also used to prevent or suppress shaft runout, vibration, and noise; improve running accuracy and locating accuracy; reduce smearing, and regulate rolling element rotation. Also, for thrust ball and roller bearings mounted on horizontal shafts, preloading keeps the rolling elements in proper alignment. ---------------------------- On castalloy wheels, the center preload tube appears to be a piece of aluminium electrical conduit, which can easily be bent if over-torqued. Both sides of the hub have shoulders, so the preload pushes the outer race (through the bearing) onto the shoulder, helping stop the outer race from spinning. On PM wheels, (AFAIK), there is only one shoulder, so proper torque may be more important, as the preload tube shoulders take all the force. After fixing the spun bearing in my hub, I've been kinda anal about setting up the rear wheel... | ||
| Josh_ |
The Crescent 12" ($18.94 at Lowe's) will open to 38mm. They don't stock a 36mm socket and Sears had it back ordered. Several of the online places have a "rear axle tool" for $20-$30. Craftsman socket is $6.99 if it's in stock. | ||
| Blake |
99X1, Axle preload and bearing preload, the kind that your handbook is talking about, are two completely different things. With the axle running through it, the center spacer is not be easily bent. The bearing outer races are pressed into the wheel hub, that is what keeps them from spinning, not axle preload. There should be little to no thrust load passed from inner to outer race via the bearings. That would be a very bad thing to subject upon a radial bearing. Too much preload on the axle could cause excessive thrust loading of the bearings, again a very bad thing for a radial bearing. So proper torquing is a very good idea. | ||
| Ara |
Y'all beat me to it, but it's 36mm for the rear (I used two sockets, a click-type torque wrench, and a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar), and 24mm for the front. Loosened my rear axle nut last night, hosed both sides down with break cleaner, readjusted, and torqued to spec. Now we'll see if the left side drifts rearward. | ||
| Josh_ |
}I did break down and buy a dial vernier caliper last night for future bolt questions  edited by josh_ on June 06, 2003 | ||
| Ara |
Josh, I've been wanting one of those too, but I want it to do the measurement from swingarm pivot to rear axle center to get wheel alignment spot-on. Give it a try and see what you think. Russ | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Josh, and all, Try Checker Auto or Schunks(sp?) for the big sockets. I bought 2 36mm deep sockets from them for doing the rear axel. They were less than $12 each. Breaker bar on one end, clicker torque wrench on the other. Brad | ||
| Josh_ |
I think Mariabelen has located a T60 Torx socket and the 36mm socket for me. ~$10 ea. at a local autoparts place. | ||
| Pilk |
What is the load capacity of the S-2 or 3? How can it be reliably increased to do 2-up with about a 500 pound load? passengers,luggage ect. Pilk(looking hard at a Honda) | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Front Fork coatings. Black anodized and Gold Titanium nitrate..does anyone here have experience in getting their buell front forks done ? | ||
| Vr1203 |
Maybe this outfit http://www.brycoat.com/aboutus.html or this http://www.fluidsuspension.com/what_c.htm | ||
| Blake |
Pilk, A 500 LB load capacity will require something other than a Buell, that is probably outside the rhealm of most sport touring machines as well. think all out tourer. Or maybe think about adding a small trailer, the kind with their own brakes that are actuated by tongue pressure. | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Thanks jim ! just what I was looking for. | ||
| Tim |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=151376#POST 151376 See the above post for TiN info | ||
| Kinger |
While riding my bike on Tuesday I noticed that the rear suspension seemed really soft. I looked at the shock when I parked it in the garage and noticed that the large nut on the shock was loose. Does this mean I am missing a locking nut? Why would this have come loose? Any thoughts or ideas would be great. I will post a pic later if it will help. | ||
| Tim |
Kinger, The large nut is the locking nut. You tighten it against the shock can/body to prevent it from turning. Turning the can is how you set your "sag" or preload. I use a strap wrench to turn the can and a smooth-jawed pipe wrench to tighten the nut. The recommended shock settings are at the top of this page. | ||
| Kinger |
Thanks Tim. Regarding the settings at the top of the page...with my bike on my center stand (shock unloaded?) my shock measures about 14.75 eye-to-eye. I think this is about right. I set it up last year when I weighed about 235 for touring. If I am remembering correctlty......the less threads exposed the more preload? Is this right? Thanks | ||
| Josh_ |
Put new isolators on my S1 last night. In the notes I found a comment on replacing the 4 bolts that hold the swingarm carrier to the trans block. How important is it to use new bolts? Thanks | ||
| Tripper |
I believe I reused mine. Couldn't find any from Buell. | ||
| Blake |
Josh, It is important. The type of high strength bolts used can actually yield (stretch permanently) when installed. That guarantees the bolts achieve optimum clamping force. Reusing them is not a guaranteed formula for failure, but there is no structural code in existence that allows the reuse of that type of plated high strength structural fastener. edited by blake on June 15, 2003 | ||
| Josh_ |
>there is no structural code in existence that allows the reuse of that type of lated high strength structural fasteners. ok, so that's a yes? Thanks, I'll order some. Is it just me or is the heads on the top bolts 16mm while the nut is 11/16? Damn that got me thinking, I haven't tightened the shock bolt yet  | ||
| Rall |
Does anybody know where I can get a recall shock rebuilt? My S-2's is leaking and Buell turned down warranty on it! Any help would be apprecated! Mark | ||
| Kinger |
How can I tell if my rear isolators are bad? I was working on the bike last night getting it ready for a week long trip. When I look at them they don't seem to be centered in the opening. Should they be? Thanks | ||
| Soundman |
Kinger, Totally normal dude. Isolator mounting bolts will be off center-low and to the rear of the bike. Check for visible tears in the rubber. Believe me -You'll know if they are torn, at least mine did. I think that 2000 and later bikes have the newer Isolators. Soundman.......... | ||
| Steveford |
The suspension on my '02 X1W is ridiculously stiff for what passes for roads here in PA. I weight 165 and travel solo on this one so can anyone recommend softer fork springs and a different shock? The settings are currently on their softest settings and it's still a bit much unless you're doing 80 and above which is fun but the police are staking out my favorite roads. I wonder why? Thanks Steve Ford | ||
| Blake |
The stiffness or harsh ride that you fell is most likely in the damping. The stock springs should be ideal for your weight. Have you tried backing off on the damping? If so and the ride is still too harsh... try a reputable aftermarket revalving. On the shock, I think you are out of luck on any kind of rebuild. Penske, Works Performance are a few who provide aftermarket shocks. Go through one of the BadWeB sponsors who carry aftermarket shocks. You could also try a lighter oil in your forks. Tire pressure, if too high, can also lead to a harsh ride. Let us know what you find. | ||
| Steveford |
Got to bounce on a bunch of X1 Lightnings at work today and discovered that one of my coworkers can't read a tape measure for setting the preload on the rear shock! Much better ride with it backed out to 15.25 from 14.25". Will put 5W Kal Gard Smooth Stroke in the forks this upcoming weekend when I have a day off. |
