Author |
Message |
Mr_incognito
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:45 pm: |
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I took my bike to the dealership about a month or 2 ago for the 12k mile valve job. I had them throw some new spark plugs in while they were in there. Got the bike back, its been pretty much sitting aside from a couple little putts around the block because its still been a bit cold here. Well we got a nice day the other day so I took it out, and my throttle response is being delayed from closed throttle. When I shift, or anytime I shut the throttle all the way down, when I roll back into it I get nothing for maybe a second or two, then it spools up like it should. So my question is, while they were in there they did all the recalls on it, one of which included 2 or 3 re-flashes that I needed done. Seems to me like this might be a problem with the re-flash? At first I thought maybe it was just the new spark plugs that needed to cycle a couple times, but after about 120 miles of pretty hard riding (stop and go) its still doing it. My dealership is about 40 miles away so id like to have a general idea of what it could be before I take it up there. If its something like a reflash that can be fixed real quick ill just ride it up there, otherwise im gonna throw it in the truck and leave it there for a few days. Thanks for any help. |
Speedy818
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:52 pm: |
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Is your idle cable too tight and throttle cable too loose? |
Ridenusa4l
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:56 pm: |
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do a tps resest and a is it de-noided? Jake |
Mr_incognito
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:56 pm: |
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I havent checked, but I would assume theyre both good....it just seemed kinda odd that this started right after I got it back from the dealership. |
Mr_incognito
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:56 pm: |
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And also no, its not de-noided. |
Ridenusa4l
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 06:05 pm: |
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well even if you just get the plug and leave it connected it will do wonders for it...at least it did for me..it 6$ do that and save yourself some trouble and do the TPS reset ASAP Jake |
Bmonty72
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 06:05 pm: |
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I have heard of an issue where it will lag when you shift into 3rd and hit the throttle. I have had this happen to me once. |
Mr_incognito
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 07:05 pm: |
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Will do. Thanks for the help, and does anyone happen to remember where the how do denoid thread is? I cant seem to find it. |
Ridenusa4l
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 07:12 pm: |
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here you go man, there's a folder at the BOTTOM of the thread list. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/490767.html Jake |
Aeholton
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 07:12 pm: |
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Do a TPS reset. I've experienced this before and TPS reset corrected the lag. |
Mr_incognito
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 07:38 pm: |
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Awesome, thanks a bunch for the info guys. HD shouldnt charge me to do a tps reset should they? Since it was kinda the reflash that was goofy? |
Mr_incognito
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 07:45 pm: |
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Also, that link you gave is a great write up. Does anyone know exactly what the little Buell resistor peice is? I also ride Kawis so I know about the "jumper mod"....is this kind of like that? Do I need the Buell part of can I just put a little jumper clip in there? |
Froggy
| Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 08:14 pm: |
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quote:HD shouldnt charge me to do a tps reset should they?
You can do it yourself, takes only a few seconds.
quote:To reset an 08+ Buell, do the following: 1. Turn on the key. 2. Set the kill switch to the run position. 3. Don’t start the engine. Rotate the throttle from fully closed (gently forced closed) to fully open (gently held open), and then back again to closed (gently forced closed). 4. Repeat 3 times. Hold each position (fully open, fully closed) for 1 full second. 5. Turn the key off and on.
quote: Does anyone know exactly what the little Buell resistor peice is?
It is just a resister stuffed into the plug. You can make your own if you have the right resister laying around (do a search for right ohms). But for $7 I rather just buy the thing and forget about it. You could also possibly disable it from the ECM, I am working on that |
Vinix
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 04:11 pm: |
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"I have heard of an issue where it will lag when you shift into 3rd and hit the throttle." I have had this happen 4 or 5 times. Each time I had down shifted into 3rd and my tach was reading 6000ish, and I applied hard throttle out of a corner. I have never seen the RPM reading when the cutout occurred, eyes on the road... I have always assumed I hit some sort of rev limit rev limit, or needed some type of racing fuel pump. |
Keef
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 04:22 pm: |
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Nope it is the solinoid pulling your throttle back closed for EPA sound emission control |
Sportster_mann
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 05:11 pm: |
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Had a problem with my throttles after the bike had been standing for a while - the cables may just need lubing. But as the dealer had to strip it down there is also a possibility that the throttles are rubbing against the idle air control hose if this hasn't been put back into the airbox correctly - it causes the throttle to "drag" - others have posted about this problem before. |
Vinix
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 05:31 pm: |
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EPA sound emission control, can it be disabled? |
Mr_incognito
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 05:31 pm: |
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Ok last question lol. Couldnt I technically just disconnect the wire from the pulley instead of totally denoiding the bike? If I put the wire in a spot where its not gonna hang up on anything while its moving in and out then shouldnt that technically work? Im just trying to figure out how I can ride it this week without waiting for the part....I tried to order the part from Americansportbike but they have a 20 dollar minimum, and im not tryin to spend 15 bucks on crap I dont need just for a 6 dollar resistor cap. |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Monday, April 05, 2010 - 02:25 pm: |
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I just completely removed the noid and am "living with" the CEL until I get the resistor. I do have the ECM cable and a copy of ECMSpy so I'll use that to clear the code once my resistor shows up. Removing my noid improved throttle response across the entire RPM range. Previously, after 15-20 minutes of riding, the throttle would have a very noticeable lag when attempting to accelerate regardless of RPM, gear or throttle position. I think the noid or its cable might have been binding up once it got hot. With it gone, those problems have completely disappeared. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 06:48 am: |
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Just remove the cable and tie the front/rear throttle cams together. Leave the noid connected electrically. Your throttle will be lighter and the butterflies won't flutter anymore. Zack |
Skntpig
| Posted on Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 12:56 pm: |
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In the FSM it shows how to reset the TPS: Turn Key On. Turn throttle fully open (1 second) Turn throttle fully closed (1 second) Turn Key Off. Repeat 3 times. It doesn't say throttle open, closed three times then key off...It is once, key off, repeat 3 times. Am I reading this wrong or is the 2010 FSM worded incorrectly? |
Skntpig
| Posted on Friday, April 09, 2010 - 12:02 pm: |
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Maybe I need to start a new thread ^^^ bump |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 10:50 pm: |
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Skntpig, you turn the key on, open and close the throttle three times, and then turn the key off. Not turn the key off after each open/close cycle. My noid resistor showed up late last week and I installed it. Before even turning on the bike, I hooked up my cable and fired up ECMSpy. It said there were no codes but I told it to clear codes anyway. I then went out for a 260-mile backroads ride and didn't have the CEL come on at all. |
Johnnys999
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 01:49 am: |
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Is the delay in motor response the motor or is it free play in the throttle tube? If its the latter you can adjust that out. |