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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through March 16, 2010 » Tuned ECM + Protune 3 « Previous Next »

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Trafford
Posted on Tuesday, March 09, 2010 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I have a question!
If I have a 'well known' ECM and acceleration and everything above 4000rpm is amazing but I still have slow running low speed steady throttle surging and erratic tickover.......if I fitted one....would a Protune III allow me to 'tune' just this 'Pilot jet' area but leave other Protune buttons in neutral positions and leave the ECM to deal with all other control areas?
Anyone done this? If so what results?

Out of interest from their blurb it says Load Based!!
Pro Tune 3 Fuel Programming Card - 2008-2009 1125R

•LOAD BASED Technology with one number interface
•Fuel control without altering the stock fuel map
•Integrated Buttons provide easy adjustment and on the fly tuning of fuel delivery
•LED lights indicate either real time injector duty cycle or air fuel ratio
•Will not interfere with motorcycle stock sensors and inputs
•Both Race Applications as well as CARB legal versions available
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Mountainstorm
Posted on Tuesday, March 09, 2010 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Money would be better spent on Dyno time with a proficient tuner.
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Trafford
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 01:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This I understand....I just happen to have a spare Protune III and thought it would be a quick way to recognise a problem like an air leak or faulty plug/coil etc
I wondered if anyone had tried it thats all
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Trafford
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been told by a very reputable 1125 Tuner/racer/ECM mapper to do a TPS reset before EVERY startup!! Is the 1125 this fickle? I just got the 1125 last week but also have an XB12R which idles like a swiss watch, runs in top gear on a whiff of throttle at 30mph and has only had TPS reset a handfull of times since I got it 2006.
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Mountainstorm
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know what to think about the TPS lore floating around BadWeb. EBR says do it one time per ECM change. The owners manual never mentions it so I doubt it is a requirement for the OEM ECM. I think of it as mechanical voodoo and do it anyway...WTH.
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Trafford
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is in the workshop manual!! on a page of its own .....just a few sentences. The instruction is ambiguous as it could be taken two ways.....Switch on ignition....open the throttle fully for 1 second then close throttle and switch of ignition. Repeat this three times. Repeat the whole sequence? or opening and closing the throttle?
Interesting eh?}

(Message edited by Trafford on March 10, 2010)
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 08 FSM says-
Verify cables are properly adjusted.
Turn IGN switch to ON.
For three cycles:Pause one second on each throttle stop(fully open - completely closed)

Paraphrased -
With the key ON, open and close the throttle 3 times, holding at each stop for a second.

Note: this is similar to the "plug clearing routine" that is: open the throttle WFO, THEN turn the key on holding the throttle open for 3 seconds.
This fire the coils 3 times in rapid succession to clear the plugs of unburned fuel(flooded).

These routines are both good to keep handy IMHO.

Zack
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Rockstarblast1
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How do you know it worked? Does anything come up on the cluster?
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Mountainstorm
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 01:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just so I know I have this right finally. Turn the key to the on position, flip the started switch to the run position (or does this not matter?) then do the 1 second WOT 1 second closed thrice? Is that correct?

Main thing is trying to understand if it matters that the run switch is on or off and that the Key switch is on.

Appreciate any clarification on that.

And does the service manual say anything about when this procedure needs to be performed?
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Rockstarblast1
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't think it matters but having it on prolly wouldn't hurt?? Ill wait for someone who knows what there talkin about to chime in : ) lol
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Easyrider
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 02:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mountainstorm,

Key on, switch on, check engine light off.

Then turn the throttle full open, hold it 1 second, and let it go and do that 3 times
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Sleeper_777
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Then you do the hokey pokey and turn yourself around...that's what I'm talkin' about!
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Easyrider
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sleeper_777, We live in a free world...
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Redbat
Posted on Thursday, March 11, 2010 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well Trafford,

Back to the question. I can't answer for using a Pro Tune 3, but what I've done is fitted the EBRacing pump gas ECU with a Daytona Twin Tec controller, (google Daytona Twin Tec)and so far the result is, good low speed manners and I've gained a very strong midrange.
The upper end of the range is still strong also.
This is kind of the opposite of what you are asking about, but I thought I'd report on my initial finding.
I'm running a D&D pipe and lost some mid range torque. But this was my experiment to try to gain back a strong mid range. So far, I'm pleased. Several people have stated the D&D loses power,is too loud,etc., but I was determined to try and make it work. I think I succeeded. I hope to tune it further with a little dyno time. Yeah it's still too loud, but I love the sound, and performance. This was my way of tuning the weak areas of my setup, without having to spend another $500 for the EBRacing tuner software.
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Trafford
Posted on Thursday, March 11, 2010 - 05:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This sounds close to what I was thinking. fine tuning without lots of dyno time or data logging....more like minor carb adjustments. This gives me hope!!
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