| Author | Message | ||
     Blazin_buell |
Sorry guys ,But I'm just getting around to doing the noidectomy, (I know I'm a slacker). What nobody that I've seen has mentioned is what's the purpose of keeping the solenoid cable on the bike? Everyone has said to tie it up out of the way,but what about taking it off all together?? I'm down to locking the linkages together and wanted to know opinions of pulling the cable before I put it all back together. Anyone,anyone...Bueller....Bueller Where's the emoticon for a hurried answer needed? Thanks ,Shane. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Shane - I removed mine completely. It's in my "spare parts " bin. It unscrews off the 'noid.  Z | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Thanks ZAC, I just wanted to make sure before I did it that there's no complications. | ||
| Jmr1283 |
ive done the same. just removed the cable and tied the linkage together. left the soleniod there. good results only | ||
| Cataract2 |
Ok, I know this has been beaten to death. Now, I you remove the Solenoid completely and put the plug in for the cable. Will you always have the CEL on or just when the conditions of the solenoid are met? | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
ok....whats this about?...what i miss? JT | ||
| P_squared |
Just when the conditions that would cause the noid to act. The CEL will be gone after a clean restart of the engine. | ||
| Ccryder |
If you have the solenoid disconnected w/o one of the "plugs" installed in the harness, you will get more than an occasional CEL. IIRC it will send a recordable code. If you use one of the plugs or just leave the solenoid plugged in, with the cable disconnected, yo may get a temporary CEL light if you meet the following requirements: 3rd gear, 45-52 mph and, hit WFO quickly, under a load. This CEL will clear the next time you start the engine. One thing about that little irksome CEL, why is the CEL not an image of a "V"-twin??? Inquiring minds want to know!!!!!!!! Later Neil S. | ||
| P_squared |
JT, Discussing removing the solenoid which can cause a 'pucker' factor under the right conditions. 3rd gear at ~45 mph, go to WOT and the noid will temporarily kick in, preventing instant acceleration. It's on the bikes for EPA noice compliance. It can be disabled by disconnecting the cable to the butterflies. When the right conditions are met, this will cause a Check Engine Light for a P--- error, which means the noid wasn't able to interrupt the acceleration like the ECM told it to. The noid itself can be removed if you use the correct plug (Buell part # Y0248.1AM), but doesn't prevent the CEL under the correct conditions. The CEL can only be prevented with the Race ECM as far as I'm aware. MANY threads on the 1125R board discussing the details in length. Just do a search using 'solenoid' and then sit back & enjoy the reading. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
THANK YOU SIR JT | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
OK....I'M CONFUSED JT | ||
| Hellgate |
Yeah I'm with JT, I just read about three threads and it helped to a point but what's the bottomline here? Thanks - Pete | ||
| P_squared |
Confused about what? You have 3 basic options: 1) Remove the cable, but leave the noid plugged in. 2) Leave the cable, but unplug the noid (need the $6 resistor) 3) Remove the noid entirely (need the $6 resistor). All 3 of the above will stop the 'failure to accelerate' condition when you meet the criteria to activate the noid. Steps for option #1: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Safetywire/zip tie cable out of way of other moving parts. Steps for Option #2: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Unplug noid at connector and plug in resistor. Steps for Option #3: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Unplug noid at wire harness connector. 8. Insert resistor into plug in wire harness. 9. Remove noid. For options #1 & 3, it’s highly recommended to tie the linkage. Whichever option you choose, the reason for doing this mod is to prevent the noid from activating in 3rd gear ~4.5k rpm, which causes a temporary ‘failure to accelerate’ condition. | ||
| Hellgate |
Got it. Thanks. | ||
| Jmr1283 |
P-squared- great job in the details | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
thank you sir | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Ok people ,I was a little frustrated during the ride after everything done. It didn't seem to make any difference in the smoothness of surging or smoother idle as I had hoped. | ||
| P_squared |
Shane, there's been mixed reports on the de-noiding having any other effect than stopping the 'failure to accelerate' condition. (That would be why I never say anything other than this mod being a 'fix' to that issue specifically.) Those who have reported improvement to how the engine runs, I believe, IMHO, has been due to locking the throttles. Look on the bright side though, you'll never have to worry about the noid kicking in when you're not expecting it now.  | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Well shitsticks no pics! I'll try this again.  Getting it back together  the filter  All the now missing parts  Now it looks like it's time for another tire. |
