| Author | Message | ||
     Buellcruiser20 |
hey wuts up everyone? im still fighting with the swing arm i took off the bolt on the side of the swing arm and the engine and everything will lower but the swing arm is a no go its not coming off. i see a alen key bolt in the center and i didnt wanna take that out and mess something up. someone please help i have a 01 m2 cyclone. | ||
| Careyj |
You have to take the allen bolt out one side and slide the long spacer and other allen bolt out the other side, thats what I had to do on my S2. | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
so basically take those elen key bolts out and theres a spacer i need to slide out of there and it will drop down. | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
also i already took out the hex bolts that are on the outside were the frame is at. | ||
| 1320 |
Make sure you have the rear of the motor braced up or your in for a surprise... | ||
| Mikej |
Two words: Service Manual. | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
ohh yeah i got it braced up lol. i already noticed it starting to drop a bit so i took a jack and braced it up. naw but mikej man im just trying to get it done the easy way and just ask u guys for some help man | ||
| Mikej |
Understood. The americanthunderbikeclub web site has/had a good writeup on how to do it, also SacBORG has/supposedly-has a writeup on it, plus the procedure is buried on the site here someplace deep within the KnowledgeVault archives. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Exactly what are you trying to do with the bike? You don't have to take the swingarm off for belt replacement if thats it?!? | ||
| Hootowl |
The swingarm and the swingarm mounting block can't be separated with the assembly still in the frame. At least, I don't think they can. You either need to lift the frame off the bike, or remove the swingarm and mount as a unit by removing the four bolts that hold the mount to the engine. Either method will allow you to replace the belt. | ||
| Bomber |
Newf -- you're right on an S1, by on M2s, the swingarm needs to be dropped -- they've got no removable plates like your bike has | ||
| Steveford |
It sounds like your problem is that you still have the swing arm bearing adjusters in place. These are the aluminum pieces that the long Allen bolt screws into from the r/h side which is how you adjust the preload. Screw the isolator bolts into the adjusters and you should be able to pull them through the frame with a pair of pliers. If you don't already have one, get a service manual and a digital fish weighing scale before you put everything back together. | ||
| Ebear |
I believe if you drop the rear of the motor down with the front isolator still tight you will destroy it......just my 2 cents..... | ||
| Road_thing |
Boy, I wish my S1 had those removable plates. I think Bomber had a senior moment--the S2's are the ones with the plates. rt | ||
| Bomber |
senior only in that good halucinagens have been unavailable for so long! My mistake, though (rats! hoist on my own petard, again!) newf, if you know of a way to replace belts w/out dropping the swingarm, please do share it with us -- you'd be kept in screech for years, and we'd raise a monument in your honor! | ||
| Mikej |
Actually Bomber is correct in some respects. Some of the tube-frame Buells have a short removable segment in the frame that allowed for belt replacement, I "think" the 99 M2's had the short removable segment. When I was buying my 2000 M2 it was a choice between a blue '99 demo model with the removable section and the black '00 M2 non-demo model without the removable section. I went with the '00 one, but if the blue '99 had had lower miles I would have went with the removable sectioned one. R'thing is correct in thinking of the larger sideplates on the S2 as well. So I believe you're both right and both owe each other a beverage.  | ||
| Newfie_buell |
The easiest way to replace the belt is to follow the S1 Service Manual!!!!! I have replaced two belts and one set of isolators and could not figure out a better way to do it. The Buell Service Manual is by far one of the best technical service manuals. Follow it, and I am sure the M2s are very similar. Go to the Knowledge Vault and check th S1 Manual | ||
| Davefl |
To clear the air it was the X1's that had the removable section. None of the M2's,S1's, or S3's had them. | ||
| Crusty |
I've tried both the Factory method and the ATC method that Jay Hawley developed, and I found the ATC method easier. However, both methods are a royal pain in the aspirin. I recommend converting to a belt drive. Then you can ride over loose gravel and down dirt roads without worrying about belt breakage. | ||
| Mikej |
I think you meant: "converting to a | ||
| Hootowl |
I can change the belt on my X1 in 45 minutes. <gloat> | ||
| Mikej |
Prove it, with pictures, and dialog, posted in the KnowledgeVault. The whole BadweB community will thank you.  (It will probably take you longer to process and format the pics and type in the text than it does to change your belt.) | ||
| Bomber |
x1s have the removable plate -- piece a cake -- 45 minutes likely includes a beer break | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
hey wuts up everyone? im still strugling with it i cant get it low enough to sqweeze the belt on there. is there any way to take off a motor mount and drop it so i can get it on. someone please tell me theres a easier way cuz i cant hardly get to any of the 4 bolts that hold the swing arm block in place. | ||
| Careyj |
Andrew are the isolators out?? You should have had to take the belt side isolator out to change the belt. Took me 15 minutes to change the belt on my S2, gotta love the removable side plates!!! | ||
| Shotgun |
Buellcruiser, for the top right bolt you need about a 12" extension on your rachet. For the top left, you need a crowfoot and a 6 inch extension and can only turn about a third of a turn at a time. The bottom 2 bolts will fit a short socket if the swing arm is free and you push it all the way up. Pain in the aspirin is right. Doable but better with a friend to help when you try to squeeze it back together if you have removed both isolator bolts. | ||
| Crusty |
Mikej, you're right. My excuse is that I'm at home sick with a fever, and not focusing very well. Chain is the way to go, IMO. | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
shouldnt the isolators just slide out because on mine i took out the big torx bolt and there not dropping out? | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Buellcruiser, You have to secure the motor/swingarm assembly to some kind of a bench/lift. Twice I used a 3/4 inch piece of plate steel that measured about 2ft X 3ft with two eyelets welded on each side. The assembly was strapped down to this then you: Not necessarily in this order. 1. Remove the tail section/bodywork and fuel tank. Let go the oil lines from tank, wiring harness, etc,etc 2. Let go the isolator bolts 3. Let go the heim joints (frame side only) starting from the rear, top of motor and front joint. 4. Grab the rear frame section and lift the frame from the motor/swingarm assembly letting it pivot on the front isolator mount. You only have to lift about 1-2 inches or enough so the isolators fall out and you can slip the belt in. Re-assembly is the reverse. You will need a friend to help with the installation of the rear isolators, one time I did mine and I used wide packing tape to hold them in place while I lowered the frame onto the bike. Once the frame was on the isolators I pulled the tape out. The other important thing to remember with the isolators is getting the pins the correct size. Make sure you measure and file these down accordingly. Make sure you use the updated isolator kit which is much heavier application. I disagree with Dan on the twisting of the belt as when the belt comes from HD its packaged in a very large box. The retailers also recommend that you not allow the belt to be any smaller than the smallest pulley on the bike. Now of course, The real solution to this problem is to convert to two good quality sprockets and a 530 O-Ring Chain. Chain and sprockets can be changed/replaced in about 30 minutes. I have pictures somewhere but am at work and I think they are on the computer at home. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Last time the bike was apart was on my way home from the 20th Anniversary and tore out the right rear isolator. Ozz666 had the parts sitting on his shelf, the garage, tools and it took us about 2.5hrs of actual wrenching. The longest thing we had to wait for was the Snap On guy to show up so we could get the T-60 torx bit. I wished we had a Canadian Tire that day. I have not attempted to remove the swingarm block from the motor at this point so I can't say it that way is easier. | ||
| Buellcruiser20 |
aight try to post up when u get on later tonight. just so i can see the pix cuz pix help me out more | ||
| Wheelybueller |
Pull the right footpeg off. Make a press with a piece of threaded rod. put the rod through the peg hole,a nut on the inside. double nut the outside. Turn the outer double nut to spread the frame,after removing all fasteners. This will open up the frame enough to remove the isolator. The only negative is possibly marking the swing arm,where the home made press sits. 20 min 2000 M2 |
