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Justin_grant
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2003 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Today, I took my 99 M2 on a 300 mile round road trip. On the way up, I had power wheeled 5 or 6 nice wheelies. Stopped at visited with some people and headed home. About 30 miles from home, I was running on the highway at about 75 MPH and then my RPM's shot up and I started loosing speed. I thought my transmission or clutch went out, then I assumed I lost a belt. NO>>> I coasted into a rest stop and noticed I sheared all of the bolts off at the rear sprocket and the sprocket was just spinning on the hub. I WAS SO LUCKY IT DID NOT LOCK UP AND TOSS ME OFF.... Anyone seen this type of failure before? I have never seen anything like this. Do you think it was the wheelies?
The sprocket holes are toast, I need a new sprocket, but the wheel is my concern. All of the bolts are broken off about one or two threads deep. If I can get them out, should I reuse the wheel or bite the bullet and buy a new one?

Justin
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Sportsman
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If a new sprocket sits square in the seat and doesnt rock back and forth, I'd use it.
I don't think it was from wheelies. Check the swingarm for marks to see if the bolts were backing out prior to snaping. Even if they didn't make it to the swingarm, they probably were just loose and couldn't take the whackin back and forth.
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Jprovo
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Justin,
What kind of bolts were you using? Grade 8, 5, stainless???

I think that Sportsman is onto something. As far as using the wheel, I would, but I'm cheap. Since the threads in the wheel see very low tensile load, as long as the threads aren't buggered up, I think you'll be fine.

James
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Budo
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How in the world did the bolts back out? I had to remove the sproket on my 98 S1W and I had to use heat from a propane torch to loosen the bolts on the sproket. Either heat or a inpact wrench is required. Had the sproket ever been off of the bike before?
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Justin_grant
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All,
I don't know what kind of bolts it had, I never looked at them. I don't think the sprocket was ever removed before.
I looked at the wheel, there are two bolt holes that are "ovaled" at the opening and all of the holes have the first few threads removed as the bolts are broken off deep into the wheel.
I called 3 Buell dealers in the area and not one of them has access to a wheel in under two weeks. Anyone have a good location to buy a wheel for under 4 hundred bucks.
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Shazam
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If he's got one.....Call Jeff at Motorcycle works (913)768-6888 They have tons of Buell take off.
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Crusty
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check ebay. There's usually a wheel or two for sale.
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2003 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know that when I removed the pulley from the rear wheel all I needed was a long 1/2inch drive breaker bar and the proper socket.

The sprocket that went back on was torqued to the value in the service manual. almost 20,000km and to date my chain has not failed because of a rock not pulled apart because of wheelies.

As for lubrication about once a week I use Chain Wax on it as that stuff don't fly off.
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Budo
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Deanne in modesto would have a wheel. Dunno how much thought. 209-578-1330.
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Budo
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It occurred to me that this might be a warranty item. My rear wheel was damaged by the wheel bearings enlarging the bore of the wheel. Probably the belt tension was too tight from the factory. Deanne was the one that told me it was a warranty item. She said every five or six bikes she saw had a bad rear wheel. My bike was a 1998 S1W. So check with her. You never know.
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Evomx
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Budo

Buell covered your trashed wheel outside of warranty? The bearings spun in my '98 M2 (28,000 miles) and the wheel is toast. Dealer has a new one on order. I'm sure it's from the belt being too tight, although it's always been adjusted per the service manual by the dealer.

If there's a way I can get some retribution, that would be awesome.

Thanks!
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Darthane
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm sure it's from the belt being too tight, although it's always been adjusted per the service manual by the dealer. <~~Evomx

LOL...at most dealers that's a contradiction in terms.
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Justin_grant
Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can tell you my belt was not to tight. I had debated wether I should tighten it or not before the ride. I can assume only that when I had the new Avon's put on the bike that the shop removed the pulley and did put the bolts back on tight enough. I did not know that the pulley was removed to change a tire, but the two bike shops I have spoke with say they always remove the pulley.
The rim is shot. Took it to a machine shop and they broke an extractor in the wheel trying to remove one of the bolts. I called Jeff at MCWORX.com and purchased a used rear wheel and sprocket (pulley). This is a bummer. The wheel I purchased is a Nuke Blue one, anyone have a Nuke Blue front?

Buell-less for the next 10 days!


Justin
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Evomx
Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Justin,

There is a blue front wheel on eBay right now. 23hours left as I write this. It's at $52. Item=2433229073. Do a search on "Buell Wheel".

Good Luck.
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Shanetbolt
Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How many teeth are on the rear pulley?
I had bought a rear wheel from e-bay and it came with brake disc and pulley. I think the wheel is off an older Buell because the pulley is smaller than on my 99 S3. So if you need a pulley in great shape let me know. I do not know if the S3 being a touring bike would have a different size pulley than the other Buells.
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Justin_grant
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 08:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, I have a HUGE favor to ask of all you. I need to know the part number for the rear wheel pulley mounting bolts, or the bolt size (Length), fine or corse thread, Metric (God I hope not), etc so I can purchase some before my wheel arrives. I also need to know the part number for the rear disk rotor attachment bolts. I had to weld an allen wrench to one of them because it was so stuck it rounded off the hex and I needed to weld the hex wrench into it so I could get it out.

The local HD/Buell shop does not have a way yet to get part numbers for Buells older than 2002. I have to supply these numbers or equivalent HD numbers so they can order them.

PLEASE HELP A MAN OUT! I WANT TO GET A FEW MORE RIDING DAYS IN BEFORE OLD JACK FROST COMES CALLING.

It is hard to keep a good Buell down!
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Doncasto
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Justin:

Rear Belt Pulley Bolts - Buell Part Number 3245Y, 7/16 - 14 X 1 1/2 hex head zinc
Washer - 5912Y, 7/16 X 7/8 hardened zinc


Rear Brake Rotor Bolts - 3495Y, M10 X 25 MM Hex Socket flat head)
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Justin_grant
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doncasto, Thanks for the info. Now, does anyone know if these items have a HD counterpart? I called the Buell shop and they want a week to 10 days, WAY TO LONG.. They don't know if these cross reference to a HD part.

Justin
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Doncasto
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Justin:

You may be able to find these bolts and washers at your local hardware store, perhaps at a lower price and higher quality than your Buell/HD dealer will offer - that's the reason behind providing the description of each for you.

There is an exceptional hardware retailer here in Boulder, McGuckins (McGuckin's Website - click here), that carries a huge inventory including grade 5 and grade 8 in almost all metric and standard fasterners. YMMV.
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Jst
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry, don't know the sizes off the top of my head. I get most of my grade 8 stuff at Ace hardware. They stock just about anything you might need.
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Justin_grant
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2003 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EVOMX,
I purchased the wheel, it was more than 50 bucks, but way les than a new one.

Now for some tech questions, can someone open the service manual and tell me the following specs:

1.)Rear Pulley Bolt Torq Specs
2.)Rear Brake Rotor Bolt Torq Specs
3.)Axle Nut Torq Specs
4.)Belt Deflection Specs (Tension)
5.)Front Axle Bolt Torq Specs

Thanks!
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Jst
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2003 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1.)Rear Pulley Bolt Torq Specs -Red locktite 55-65 '#
2.)Rear Brake Rotor Bolt Torq Specs -Red locktite 35-40'#
3.)Axle Nut Torq Specs -Locktite anti-seize 66-73'#
4.)Belt Deflection Specs (Tension) 10'# of pressure 1.5"-1.75"
5.)Front Axle Bolt Torq Specs Blue Locktite 48-53'#
6) Pinch bolts 13-15'#

I just happen to have my service manual in front of me.


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Justin_grant
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2003 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WOW
That was fast!
Thanks JST
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Budo
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2003 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why would you have to remove the pully to change a tire. I changed my own several times and the pully was not in the way. I had other shops change tires and they did not have to remove the pully. That seems real odd.
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Justin_grant
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2003 - 07:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Budo,
I thought it was odd as well, but I don't know, it is the only suggestion that accounts for all of the bolts coming lose and braking off.

My new (new to me) Nuke Blue wheels are scheduled to be here Friday and I can ride again thanks to all of you on this site!

Justin
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Jst
Posted on Friday, September 26, 2003 - 06:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Justin, I've had several tires done and they never once had to remove the pulley. It's not in the service manual that way either. I would suggest you might want to go see the service manager of that shop and suggest (as nicely as possible) that one of his techs almost killed you. Best case, they'll cover the cost of the new wheel/pulley. Maybe they'll pony up for a set of tires or some free service in the future. At the very least they should have used new bolts.

JT
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Budo
Posted on Friday, September 26, 2003 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree. If the tech did in fact remove the pully when it was not needed he put you at risk. Especially since he apparently instlled it incorrectly. With red locktite and the correct torque number, those bolts don't back out. If they sheared off then the wrong hardness bolts were used. You might want to contact Buell customer service. Bottom line, the tech tried to kill you. Sure it might have been due to ignorance, but you would still be dead.
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Justin_grant
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 02:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I called and here is what I was told, I was told that they don't always remove the pulley, it is only removed in the case where it interfears with the tire machine. If they do removed it, they do use locktite and mark the bolts with a yellow paint pen. I was asked to bring in the wheel and they would inspect it along with the bolts and sprocket. Well needless to say, the wheel is gone, and the bolts are somewhere on Interstate 65 south in Clarksville Indiana. Easy out if you ask me.
Just glad it did not lockup and kill me when it failed. I now have a set of Nuke Blue rims on my Blue Buell, the two different blues look good together.

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Budo
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Glad it worked out for you. Now I gotta wonder about the next guy. If I was that service mgr my pucker factor would be way up there. I can imagine someone getting killed or crippled because of that kind of failure and the dealership getting sued big time.
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Kenb
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2004 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well Justin your not alone now, I was putting brake pads on yesterday and realized the rear pulley was loose. All 5 bolts are broken 3/8 - 1/2 inch into the hole with only several threads holding on each one. The surfaces of both the pulley and rim are a mess, looks like someone beat it with a ball peen hammer. Shame is the bike has the PM wheels on it. Now my big question is, will the wheels from a cyclone fit my 96 Lightning ? I saw a few sets on ebay.
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