| Author | Message | ||
     Gianni312 |
I was riding my s1 on the highway and while riding at speeds of 65-80, the front end felt too loose (steering wise). I recently had all new suspension installed for ride height. The triple tree is nice and snug as is the front wheel and rim. Is this a common issue with s1? Do I need a steering stabilizer? If so, could anyone recommend a setup? Thanks | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Start with the simple stuff: Make absolutely sure your rear wheel is properly aligned and belt tension is set correctly. All new suspension for ride height? May want to clarify that a bit more... | ||
| Gianni312 |
I am 5'3" and 175. When I bought the s1, I could not even reach the ground. Also, my weight was not enough to overcome the fork springs. I has a local shop "Superbike Italia" in Naperville, IL rework everything. The front springs now compress and the penske adjustable shock allows me to reach the ground. I just have the belt looked at by H-D in Rockford, IL. Those guys all still drag s1's and they said everything was good (belt, alignment, isolators, swing arm). | ||
| 01x1buell |
how loose is the belt, how much free play. | ||
| B1rdman |
I'm 5'4" and 130lbs...and haven't messed with the suspension at all. lol I tippy toe both sides or just the usual, lean the bike to the left some and flat foot, with the right foot on the peg. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Define "nice and snug". there is a torque spec for the steering stem nut. Make sure its set properly. Lift the front end of the bike using the frame so you can free pivot the steering and make sure there's not a notch in the bearings on-center. make sure the suspension is PROPERLY adjusted for your weight. not your height...your weight. and don't death-grip the bars. check tire pressure. and +1 to all the above suggestions. wobble is a sign of some other problem, especially at street speeds. find and fix the issue, don't cover it up with a stabilizer. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
How much did you lower the back? Did you lower the forks the same amount? Is the sag properly set at both ends? Sounds like too much sag in the back, not enough sag in the front or the front ride height not correct for the rear.... | ||
| Gianni312 |
Hello everyone, thank you for the recommendations. I will look at everything this coming Saturday and let everyone know what I find. B1rdman - Maybe its the inseam that gets me. I wish I could have tip toed, but that was not an option. If it was, it would have saved me $2k. Ratbuell - "nice and snug:" lifted bike from frame...pulled on the handles and no movement. I will check the torque (do you know what the torque should be at?). The suspension was set for weight but I will check the with the shop, I think if the man that set the suspension up, he will experience what i do. | ||
| Gianni312 |
01x1Buell - There isnt really much, as far as exact measurements of deflection, I cannot say. I do know that the belt makes a sound (stretching?) when I am just walk the bike. But I told that to the H-D service guys and they said it was ok. I know they sell the belt tension measurement tool, but i don't have one. How would I check rear wheel alignment without going to a shop? | ||
| Oldog |
Gianni the correct belt tension unloaded is LOOSE On a regular machine with a regular ride height it should be about 2" as the suspension compresses it gets less to about 3/4" when the arm and wheel centers are closest to in line, up and down. I measure from the swing arm pivot to the axle on both sides for wheels in line on other machines but. that is hard to do on a buell on the cast aluminum swing arm i use the pocket as the arm is machined. some have used wires or metal bars as a straight edge | ||
| Alfau |
Suspention has to be balanced or speed wabbles will occur. Lowering at the rear changes the rake on the front forks. You could lower the tripple tree on the front forks to levil the bike. Make sure steering head bearing is adjusted correctly. (i.e.not too loose.) | ||
| Gianni312 |
Alfau - the bike was also lowered in the front when it was lowered at the rear. What do you mean by "make sure steering head bearing is adjusted correctly?" Maybe that could be something... | ||
| Oldog |
head bearings are taper roller bearings they must be tight enough not to rock but be able to rotate with out binding, like car wheel bearings.... | ||
| Gianni312 |
Thanks oldog. | ||
| Beardo |
Something no one has bothered to dig into, and I'm bored. What bikes do you have experience with? And here is the reason I ask. Before I got my Buells, I rode my 96 Ducati 900SS up until late last year when I had a second surgery on my leg. The next sportbike I climbed on, was my S1. And the difference between the two bikes was night and day. The front end positively feels 'flighty' compared to the rock solid stable feel of my Duc. I then came across an article in the first issue of Battle2Win magazine, where Keith Code was interviewed. He was asked of his riding impressions between the S2 and the then brand new, S1. Keith Code reaffirmed what I was feeling. The S2 is a bike any 'Joe' can jump on and feel completely at home at. Very easy to ride. The S2 feels more comparable to my 900SS. Then he jumps on the S1. Completely different, night and day, he is quoted as saying. Front end feels flighty compared to the S2. The rider really has to move back in the seat and completely unload their weight off the handlebars before going into the corner. No kidding. Hmmm. So maybe it was just me and how I was riding the bike initially, and I had to re-adjust my approach, which I did. So, who knows. I'm just thinking out loud. | ||
| Akbuell |
Re- Setting the proper preload on the steering stem bearings: The following is from my '01 X-1 service manual. S-1 may not be the same ... Unhook the clutch cable at the lever. Remove the fuel tank and pick the front wheel off of the ground using frame straps. Turn the front wheel full right. Using a spring gauge attached to the end of the axle, pull the front wheel straight. It should take between 4.5 and 6.5lbs of pull to get the wheel straight. There is a procedure as to which bolts to loosen when adjusting the preload. All of the above posts offer good advice; it is a matter of carefully checking things one at a time. Not familiar w/your forks. If they have compression and rebound adjustment, confirm that both forks are set the same, and both are the same height in the triple trees. If all is as it should be, your front end may be 'nervous' (too stiff) or 'vague' (too soft). Playing with the compression settings may point you in the right direction. Playing with fork oil levels may be useful. Or, as mentioned above, a change in riding position or how tightly you hold the grips may be the answer. Hope all of this helps, Dave | ||
| Alfau |
The steering head bearings have no seal to keep water,grit and dust out. Don't wash this area with with a pressure washer. If incorrectly adjusted wheelstands can actually dent the outer race of the sterering head bearing after which the bearing will want to settle into the dent, affecting steering. As a side point. you need to use a tension wrench when tightening wheel axel nuts or you will destroy the wheel bearings.(Check tension) Tighten front axle nut (metric) with LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 243 (Blue) to 48-53 ft-lbs (65-72 Nm). Tighten rear axle nut (metric) to 66-73 ft-lbs It's a full time job keeping them going. | ||
| S1owner |
Tension wrench? = torque wrench? | ||
| Gianni312 |
Beardo - that being the easiest and cheapest of all the recommendations - I will try this this coming Saturday and see if maybe it is me. I started on a buell blast, then moved up to a BMW c1200r (great bike but again....height was an issue). I have asked other people to ride the bike to see if it was just me; however, I have yet to encounter another s1 rider willing to do so. Also, I spoke with the shop that adjusted my suspension, they agree that the wobble should not happen, they are going to take a look at it and see what it could be....I am going to print this tread and give it to him so they can trouble shoot. Thanks everyone for identifying the potential issues. One thing I just thought of, I have a Stenzel bar installed could this be the cause? | ||
| Gianni312 |
Well, I took a look at the bike over the weekend armed with everyone advice. First, the tires were at 32 front and 34 rear, I inflated both to 42. Next looked at the drive belt tension, TIGHT didn't even begin to describe it, with just my weight,the belt had no movement..... So much for the dealer! I adjusted it in accordance with Buellistics 101 class.... The bike handles likes its on rails!!!! Rode 400 miles this weekend and loved it! Thanks everyone for their input!!!! | ||
| Kalali |
I have an X1 but isn't 42 psi cold pressure too high? Just asking. I think the owner's manual recommends much lower numbers. I'll check when I get home. | ||
| Gianni312 |
According to Buell, it should be 32 front and 36 rear, but the tires I have on Metzler have max at 42 cold. | ||
| S1owner |
It all depends on the tire recomendations | ||
| Dannybuell |
The Banke frame brace really helps, so does a lot of preload in the rear spring. | ||
| Gianni312 |
Danny, one was for sale on the classifieds not to long ago, but I was too late. Honestly, the bike feels great now. I was talking to a tire expert and got onto the subject of tire inflation, he stated that the tires should be inflated according to their labels nothing else. I want to look into the issue more, but the way the S1 handles now, I feel I made the right choice. | ||
| Jayvee |
I love a happy ending... | ||
| Dannybuell |
great | ||
| Akbuell |
Glad the handling issue is resolved. Good to hear. As to the tire pressure, I believe the 42PSI you are running is the max safe pressure for the tire at its max load rating. As an example, my Sportster has a front tire pressure of 30PSI, per the service manual, while the tire sidewall lists a max of 41PSI. So your 42PSI is certainly safe, but you may have wear and handling issues. IE, you may get premature wear on the tread center. The ride may be more 'harsh', as the stiffer sidewall transmits more of a bump to the suspension. Finally, at high lean angles you may have a smaller tire footprint than you would expect from lower pressures. Since you are no longer running OE tires (I don't either) it may be worth playing a bit with service manual pressures. And definitely try contacting Metzler about pressures for fitment on your Buell. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Gianni312 |
Thanks Dave, I reached out to Metzler.... waiting to hear back to see what they say. You are correct, the higher pressure has resulted in a stiffer ride. |
