| Author | Message | ||
     Coxster |
any recommendations on the "stud drill-out kit" vs the tried and almost true 'Easy-out' with left hand drill bits. thx everyone Coxster | ||
| Psykick_machanik |
One of the biggest topix on here. if i have to do it again i would do the "weld a nut to the end of the stud" trick. That is if you have the facilities. second choice would be the left hand drill and (NOT) EZ-out, with heat. Just make darn sure that you drill EXACTLY down the middle of that stud. Good luck and taking the head off to take to a machine shop is always an option. | ||
| X1_rider |
Check out this link and scroll down to "stud drilling jig". http://georges-garage.com/evo_engine.htm | ||
| Sdecp |
Sold by Al at American Sport Bike: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16029.html | ||
| 01x1buell |
i have bought and used the JIMS stud tool, i still have it, very easy to do if you have the right tools and the knowledge. | ||
| Coxster |
The sucker was hard enough to get to with the frame in the way ( lower stud on rear cylinder ) it took about 2 hours but the head is off the bike and 'headed' for a machine shop on Monday. I hate being 'grounded' for the time being  | ||
| 01x1buell |
the last stud that i drilled and replaced was the exact same stud that you broke, it is very hard to get to but with the right tools i did it for half the cost of a shop.. glad you are getting it fixed. | ||
| Buellistic |
REVERSE FLUTE DRILL BITS !!! Do a search on exhaust studs re-moveal !!! | ||
| 01x1buell |
buellistic is one of the people that helped me learn how to do it. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Don't mess with the stock bull$hit. You have the head off take it and the exhaust flange and have them enlarged NOW! I did it to mine and never looked back! On some of these bikes they vibrate so much they always break off. I got sick of that game years ago........Ask me how i know?   Take the little metal washer off the flange to get it off the header so it looks like this.  Bigger studs 10mm And grade 8 nuts. Never broke off again after this mod!    Good luck to you sir! I had to drill and grind one for 2 hours to get it out before. Ive done it so much it makes me sick to think of having to do it again......Not to mention all the exhaust studs i keep finding everywhere. (Message edited by preybird1 on September 09, 2012) | ||
| Buellistic |
Coxster: PM me so that "i" can get your e-mail address and "i" will send you some HELP "INFO" !!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've done it successfully twice now without the Jims tool. My advice is to get the Jims tool. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Good luck Jim! I think there might be a recent thread on this in the Cyclone section too. I'll post a link for you if I can find it. So those of you who have done this, is it suggested to replace these studs periodically as preventative maintenance? I know I'm kind of an old timer round here but haven't got the mechanical experience that some have, Reep, Lafayette, Bomber (where's he been hanging out these days)? I've always been careful to relieve my exhaust system of stress when I put it together or swap parts so I've hoped that was adequate. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I never proactively replaced any. My failures with the stock studs were always attributable to "some other problem". On the M2, it was that sub-par original hanger design. On the 9sx, I had the exhaust off for some other reason and when I put it back on I must not have torqued the nut to the front exhaust strap hanger correctly. The hanger stayed tight and solid, but the bolt that pinned it to the bottom of the engine case came out without me noticing. Then on the M2, I broke an easy out trying to get the old stud out (I was naive on if it would work). On the 9sx, I knew better, and just drilled. But then I broke a tap in there trying to clean out the threads. Sigh. Get the Jims tool. I will say that the 10mm studs Preybird suggests look like a nice alternative. If I was on a tuber, I'd probably do that mod proactively next time I had the header off. If you can get the old studs out before they break, it would be easy to drill out and re-tap the heads for the bigger studs and it would give a nice margin. | ||
| X1_rider |
Just to let everyone know, the JIMS stud tool is over $100.00 and the George's Garage in the link I provided above is the exact same thing for $65.50. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Link to another recent thread on the matter by Rick_a: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/691685.html?1346330412 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/691192.html?1346376975 First link is the archived beginning of the thread, second is the more recent posts. Mods, if you are reading, I sure wish we could migrate the pertinent threads from the KV to the old school, an Old School KV section would be nice. Many of the newer bikes have their own particular issues. A lot of folks finding nice tubers just can't dig deep enough into the KV for the right info. | ||
| Coxster |
Thx LB. It's at the machine shop now. . .as I wait and wait and wait. Appreciate everyone | ||
| Rick_a |
I had a broken front engine mount bolt. Haven't had to deal with a broken exhaust stud yet... | ||
| Coxster |
Got the head back today, helicoiled for $40 and the shop owner delivered it to me at work. I will not put the factory studs back in, going with something harder. | ||
| Akbuell |
As an aside, don't forget to pull the cylinder and replace the cyl base gasket. More than a few folks here have reported having to pull the head again because the old gasket started to leak ........ |
