| Author | Message | ||
     Rick_a |
Was greeted with this sight in the AM...  Not cool. I've sourced most everything needed for the repair locally. If all goes well it should be repaired shortly and with little investment. The bolts found in the proper grade are 1/4" longer than the originals so I'm looking for a hardened spacer that much thicker. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Rick don't know if you have access to a lathe!? ,so you can make your own!  This are cut from some stainless Which bolts are you gonna use? | ||
| Brinnutz |
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=25113 9371683 What say you on stock replacements? | ||
| Jramsey |
http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp? txtsearchParamCat=73 $1.55 each. | ||
| Reepicheep |
bummer. I'm assuming the bolt is just gone, rather than sheared? Thats good news at least. | ||
| Rick_a |
The fastener is sheared, flush with the head. I found some of these locally http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku =20693} | ||
| Reepicheep |
Ow. How are you going to get it out? | ||
| Rick_a |
The plan is left hand drill, heat, and screw extractor. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I hear the left hand drill approach works. (usually) EZ-out = The Devil!!! | ||
| 01x1buell |
yes the ez out is a no go , if it breaks u r screwed | ||
| Dannybuell |
^^ Yes to all of the above ^^ This has happened a few times on my S1. One time the head broke. I found a specialty fastener store in town and got their better than grade 8 (yes) version. American Sport Bike has them as well I think. It has been 10 years and it hasn't happened since. The S1 now has 98,000 miles. | ||
| Buellistic |
Have had two FRONT MOTOR MOUNT problems: Bounced off a car which broke the first and second dealer put one on which broke ... The third one "i" installed myself and my bike now has 111,819.6 mikes as of the last ride ... BUELLers it is all in proper installation !!! | ||
| Rick_a |
I won't be using an "EZ-out." I have a set of heavier duty "pipe extractors," though I know that breaking an extractor is always a possibility. Plan B is removing the head and going to a machine shop. Enough heat should soften the Loctite enough. The fasteners are Grade 9 with a minimum 180,000 PSI tensile strength; exactly the same as the F911 OEM bolts. My first such failure tore the fastener from the cylinder head. With the XB-style heads this is unlikely to repeat but is a PITA nonetheless. | ||
| Rick_a |
Buellistic, this bike has cartwheeled on the track with the current mount set-up and had been jumped a few times daily for over six years. All things considered, this was not a surprise. Proper installation should be a given. This is the second failure. The first was the factory installation. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it was me, I would take the head off, get it on a drill press, and build a special jig to lock it square, level, and centered. Then go after it with a series of drill bits (preferably left handed), making sure that first hole is as centered as you can get it. Then finish up with heat and an easy out once 80% of the middle of that bolt has been transformed to swarf. | ||
| Buellistic |
Rick_a: "i" totally agree, you should get the "HEAVY DUTY" FRONT MOTOR MOUNT !!! "BUT" if you do not install the MOTOR MOUNT to HEAD "BOLTS" correctly they will continue to "BREAK" !!! "i" can not figure out why the motor mount did not break ??? Reepicheep: You get an AT-AH-BOY, as you are getting with the PROGRAM !!! | ||
| Dannybuell |
the first time my mechanic put a reverse bit on it gently started and throttled it a bit, the stud followed right out. the second time i knew how easy they came out so I tapped mine out with hammer and punch. ez. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Edit: This was supposed to go in the Snapped S3 Motor Mount thread...whoops, but here's info for you as well. There is this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buell-Front-Engine-Mount-C NC-Machined-Billet-/230710879989#ht_600wt_952 Here is billet2race's http://affordablecart.net/billet2racestore/index.c gi?code=3&cat=17 She just got back from being in a pretty bad car wreck (owner of B2R). She has a facebook page too if you wanted to get ahold of her. (Message edited by brinnutz on August 27, 2012) | ||
| Jim2 |
I used the extractor tool from American Sport Bike which I believe is a heavy-duty pipe nipple extractor. But it might be different. It is supposed to be designed to bite in a shallow hole. I drilled about 3/8" deep but found out I could have stopped at 1/8". It came right out with the extractor. I used a right-angle drill adapter and drilled with the heads still on. Don't forget a good solid center punch to loosen things up. I did use left-handed drill bits but it didn't budge with just the drill bits. I have a thread here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/683384.html?1342333349 | ||
| Buellistic |
Brinnutz: That is just fine, as long as "i" can find it !!! | ||
| Rick_a |
Good to know, guys. Thanks. It's already got an NRHS mount. The logo can be seen in the pic. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Yeah Rick, I didn't mean to post that in here, LOL...Clicked in the wrong email, whoops.  | ||
| Rick_a |
No problem. I was actually replying to this:
While we're at is this is my mount: http://www.nrhsperformance.com/partsbillet.shtml Mine just has a slight patina. The more info we get out there the better. My S1 came from the factory with the stronger early "webbed" mount. The mount survived but the cylinder head broke a mounting boss. I went with the NRHS mount after upgrading to XB style heads due to that breakage. | ||
| Brinnutz |
If anyone ever has their head(s) off, I usually try to tell them to see if they can upgrade to the XB12 Pistons and XB heads. I think they are a bit more stout and stronger in this area compared to the Thunderstorms. Wouldn't you agree Rick? | ||
| Rick_a |
Absolutely. That right side mount is much beefier on the XB-style heads. It's a big power gain, too...and if the original Lightning or Thunderstorm heads are in good shape Harley guys pay well to get them. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Just stepping up to 12 pistons is huge. I bumped to 9 pistons for the compression. If I ever tear down I'll go back to 12 pistons. | ||
| Rick_a |
The bolt is out. It took a combo of methods, but the extraction was relatively drama-free. The odd thing is that the broken bolt was still in there solidly. The Loctite was fully intact and holding tenaciously. The unbroken bolt came out easily and the Loctite was reduced to a black goo. The bolt was initially loosened with heat and a punch. Once turned about 3/4 turn it was center drilled with the L/H bits and the pipe extractor used. The front iso was also found to be toast. It is sandwiched against the top spacer and a large aftermarket aluminum spacer on the bottom so the tear could not be readily seen. Replacing these infernal bolts every 15k miles may become a regular maintenance item. | ||
| Rick_a |
Looks like a typical failure:  The built-up grime is from an oil leak that will also be fixed. Very crusty front isolator:  The offender:  | ||
| Kalali |
So do you guys really recommend replacing those mount bolts proactively? If so, what is a good replacement? | ||
| Mbsween |
Rick, I'm thinking checking the front isolator is the important part. Correct? I don't believe the bolts break until the isolator lets them bear a lot more load than they should be. Especially on a hard wheelie set down  Also looks like you drilled/extracted with the head in place using the extractor from Al. That right? I cracked the boss when I tried that. Nice work! |
