| Author | Message | ||
     Hustler_s2t |
Guys, first off let me say the search function isn't working! Don't know if its me or the site but I've found limited info. I've got a 95 s2, 10k miles. I've had it for almost a year now and I've not messed with it yet. It's got a super trap slip on and k@n filter with otherwise stock air box. I've found nhrs' website and found dyno sheets there that I like to see. I'm not looking for a radical set up that puts 125 hp to the wheel. Nor am I looking to go several thousand dollars into this. Maybe somewhere around 700-800 at this point in time. I love this bike. It's so comfortable for me to ride all day. I would just appreciate some more power. I like my low end grunt but it seems to run out of steam above 5000. Even in the 'meat of it' around 3500-4000 I would appreciate more power. I know my supertrap could use some more disks, I've got 9 or so and on nhrs' website I found it needed many more and netted something like 7 or 8 more hp so that's great for the money invested in something like that. Also I've developed an intake gasket leak that burps out of it when it's cold every once in a while and a rocker box cover oil leak I plan to seal up soon. Hopefully the intake leak can get things a little better and maybe make it a tad stronger to have a more even air fuel mix in there. So what tips and tricks do you guys know can be done In that range? Thanks guys! Brad | ||
| Fahren |
With a new exhaust and intake, you should look at the jetting of the carb and shimming of the jet needle. Most of the guys on here know more about this than I do, so better to get their advice for starting points, but you have increased air flow, so you need more fuel delivered into the system to keep up, keep from running lean. | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
These things were already put on before I got it. I assume it was adjusted for this as it doesn't have a flat spot or anything. But ya never know, and I read in one article this carb was set up a tick too lean to begin with to get better emissions so maybe I'll look into jet tuning. Never done it on a bike carb, just a holley 4bbl on my nova. Thanks for the tip. Keep em comin  Brad | ||
| Ratbuell |
I put stock Thunderstorm heads and pistons, along with X1 cams and an S1W race ignition box, in my S2 a few years ago. Love it. Not overpowering the chassis, but definitely has the 'grunt' I wanted. While I was in there changing cams, I put in the bronze gear, and updated the primary shoe on the other side (just so I'd have new gaskets EVERYwhere, lol). I also recently put XB rockerboxes on, and NRHS billet pushrod bases. All that, stock carb with 45/190 jetting, and a Buell race muffler...and been riding the wheels off it for years wiht no complaints | ||
| Gowindward |
-------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ If you are hitting a rev limiter at about 5300 rpm there is another ignition module that will put the rev limiter at 6500 (IIRC). About $100 and makes a BIG difference being having more RPM range. P/N in below thread. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/447266.html?1238685045 | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Ratbuell, if you don't mind me asking, how much did that set up cost to put together for just the engine parts? I will likely keep my supertrapp because I love the sound. Secondly, if you've never had yours on a dyno, what numbers have others seen with that setup? Does it still have good low- mid power or does it shift it all up in the range? Thank you for your info. Gowindward, mine will climb to above 6000 rpm. I believe around 6300 but it doesn't make much sense, currently mine has little pull there and runs quicker when shifted around 5800-5900 with my butt dyno. Thanks guys Brad | ||
| Phelan |
With stock valves and springs you don't want to go above 6000 rpms anyway because it's killing 'em softly.  . How good are your mechanic capabilities? The engine works as a system, and without changing things together, you'll see limited results. It can be done in the price range you're pointing out if you're doing the work yourself, otherwise you'll be hard-pressed to get significant gains without significant dollars. My plan for an economical motor build on an S2 looks like this: - XB or '04-up XL heads off eBay ($3-400 typical) - XB12 cylinders and pistons off eBay ($150-250) - '98 S1W or '99 X1 cams or SE .497 cams off eBay($100-$150) - Ultima adjustible ignition system off eBay ($150) - have the stock S2 motor mount bolt hole filled and redriledl to fit XB heads ($ depends on who's doing it) or $250 for NRHS mount This setup should get you about 80-85 RWHP when tuned in, which is about 30 HP more than a stock S2 puts to the wheel. | ||
| Phelan |
Another option- pick up an S1W, X1 or S3 motor off eBay and sell your stock motor to offset the cost. That's the easy way to get about 80 RWHP. | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Well I've not worked on a motorcycle much but I do work on cars so that's fine. One of my concern is lifting/supporting the bike to get the work done. I remember reading that guys used ladders and straps around the frame (if I remember correctly). From what I recall the standard triple tree jacks and rear axle jacks don't quite work on our bikes. Also, I'm just not sure I wanted to get that involved with replacing those items on the motor yet without them being broken or worn out. I mean if that's what it takes to get a noticeable increase in power then so be it. I'll start planning for things like that then. I was just hoping with the right cam/ exh/ jetting/ other known tricks it might get another 10-15 maybe 20 hp to the wheel. Thanks for your info on that Phelan. | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Just found this while cruising the web. Pretty promising it seems and not too much dough. Basically screamin eagle cams, slip on, Ign box netted them 13 hp (21%) and the peak torque went down 1000rpm and peak hp went UP 1000rpm. That. Sounds sweet to me http://sh1.webring.com/people/st/tgroghan/buell/ar ticle/1995s2.html Anyone tried this approach? | ||
| Phelan |
Keep in mind you already have the slip-on (Supertrapp), which is the bulk of that gain. You'll probably gain another 8HP with the cams, ignition, and tuning. That particular ignition module though is difficult to find at the right price point IMHO. You may be able to find one for about $150-$200 but for that dough you should get the adjustible Ultima setup I mentioned above, which is a rebadged Dyna 2000i but with lower quality pre-set curves (which can be adjusted). The Ultima kit converts to single fire and includes nosecone and coil. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I have not dynoed, but it's built to the same spec as the factory 101hp engines (but with a heavy flywheel). I went thunderstorm because I wouldn't have to change the front mount. I honestly don't know what the parts would cost at retail - I worked at a dealer at the time, so I got some good pricing. Built it myself. I bought: 2 thunderstorm heads, complete with springs/valves/seats/retainers 1 set X1 cams 2 .005" o/s thunderstorm pistons (reused OEM jugs, machined for the new rings) 1 S1W race ignition box 1 ignition box wiring adaptor (they changed plug styles; it was a standard Drag Specialties part) Current style HD/Buell top end gasket kit, primary gasket, and cam gasket Spark plugs, plug wires Wrist pin bushings (since I was in there anyway, I put in new bushings).  Pit Bull front and rear stands worked just fine, throughout the process. That was my main rebuild. Torque builds starting around 2k or so, and it pulls hard and strong right up to the 6800rpm limiter. No flat spots, no peaks - just smooth linear power. I'm very pleased. This past winter I did the XB rockerbox conversion (2 covers, 2 valves, rockerbox gasket kit, few feet of PCV hose), and the NRHS pushrod bases. Step 1 - BUY THE SHOP MANUAL. Step 2 - plan your build and get your parts Step 3 - build 'er Step 4 - ride 'er Step 5 - smile | ||
| Doug_s |
my '95 s2's engine build almost identically matches ratbuell's; it was done at a dealer in '98, when i purchased the bike. i also wanted an s2 w/the 101hp spec build. at a free dyno day, it pulled 80hp/80ft-lbs torque. later, i added the full factory race kit, and re-jetted it. it's stronger still, but never re-dyno'd. doug s. | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Alright guys thanks for all the info on your setups. Ratbuell, are those just store bought stands that worked out of the box with no modifications to them or the bike? Doug s, thanks for posting numbers with the set up. What is meant by full factory race kit? Also another question, some people I talk to about my bike hear it's a 1200 cc motor'd buell and think it's a wheelie machine. My s2t won't lift the front tire but only a couple inches high and that's if I really shift the load by letting off then going WOT. Is this typical for a 95? It's not that wheelies are my thing but knowing that it should be able to but won't may say something about my current state of tune. Thanks, Brad | ||
| Doug_s |
brad, the race kit is the bigger k&n filter, race ecm, race header and race muffler... should push the numbers closer to 90 than 80, from what i have read, but i dunno for sure... i needed to re-jet; i don't remember what the final jets were, but i know it took me a coupla months of riding and changing 'em, to get it right... oh yeah, i also installed the thunderslide kit in the carb. doug s. | ||
| Phelan |
You're probably not doing the wheelie procedure right, or you have a bad isolator. Mine when it had a stock motor with a D&D slipon and bags/lowers on it would stand straight up once I learned how to wheelie... And that was at 10 MPH... | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Ok thanks for the scoop on that Doug. Is that pretty loud now with all the race exhaust? I love the loudness level of my supertrapp. Definitely hear it but not overpowering. Phelan, 2 things...first off is how do you tell when your front isolator has failed? I have picked up a factory svc manual but it's just not with me at the time. If a test procedure is in there for that then you don't have to bother typing it out if it's in print. Secondly, how then did you pull the tire at 10mph when stock? What's the trick? | ||
| Ratbuell |
For the wheelies - clutch it up, maybe bounce the front end (throttle / chop / throttle and pull). Me, I only do wheelies if I make a mistake lol. My stands are stock PitBull stands, front: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5589.html (I have pin 7, pin 2, and pin 3 - the pins swap in a split second for different generation bikes and the pin inserts into the bottom triple tree) And rear: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5587.html The rear *works* on the CR and Uly in addition to my tubers...it's just not ideal as the swingarm can (and does) slide down until the wheel touches the ground. Fine, unless I don't have a rear wheel on there at the time. The tops of the stand where it contacts the swingarm are held in with a single bolt on each side. Loosen the bolt and you can slide the support in towards centerline, or out, about an inch and a half per side. But to answer your question - yes, they work fine without any mods to them, or to the bike. | ||
| Phelan |
If the isolators are bad, you'll see a lot of deep cracks in the rubber, or on the front the rubber with be separating from the metal in the center, or both. 10 mph wheelie is easy as long as your tires are warm. @ 10 mph pull in clutch rev up to 4500 and dump clutch. Wheelies for me work best at around 20 mph though. (Message edited by Phelan on August 04, 2010) | ||
| Phelan |
Btw, be careful, as I've gone through 2 sets of fork seals and and 2 Showa shocks from excessive wheelie-ing  . | ||
| S2firebolt |
Ratbuell, I have a 95 S2 and a pitbull front stand as well but have never found a pin to fit it. I recall that the 96 S2 had a different triple tree with a larger diameter hole for a pin. RIGHT??? So where I'm going is what pin are you using? | ||
| F_skinner |
The early S2s had the bolt you have (your stand will not fit).. I can not remember when they changed it but they changed it with the later builds of the 95 model year. Ratbuell has a later build so he has the same diameter hole as a few of my S2s. S2firebolt, what I have done with the one that has the small diameter opening on the bottom of the triple tree (no stand will fit) is to use a ladder with straps to pull the front end up by the handle bars. (unless of course you are removing the forks then do not attach straps to the handlebars). I am down the road from you so if you need anything let me know. Frank | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Guys my bad I said it was a 95....mine's a 96. Oops! So Frank the 96's may also have that bolt you speak of, if an early build maybe? Also yea I've gotten it to pull the front tire quite a bit by popping the clutch, I was wondering about power-on wheelies when you goose the throttle at the right rpm and got it to come up. I just replaced my leaking intake seals (fun job lol) and carb seal. It runs better now, more crisp and responsive and a touch more power that can pop the front tire a couple inches by riding at 3k in first, closing the throttle then going wide open. It will also now pop the front tire going into second at WOT. Wouldn't do that before Still want more power though lol Brad | ||
| F_skinner |
If it is a S2T it is a 96... PM me your VIN... Maybe someone replaced it but I will take a look at mine tonight (the center bolt for the triple tree). | ||
| F_skinner |
There was a lower triple tree change with replacement of the bolt that secures the top triple tree. This can be identified by the hollow I.D. of the lower triple tree shaft. This took effect with 1995 VIN 817. | ||
| Doug_s |
hustler, the race header & muffler is definitely louder than stock, but not too loud. it sounds really nice, imo. when it's due for a repack, it gets louder, tho... doug s. |
