| Author | Message | ||
     Ryker77 |
I don't want to spend the 100+ bucks for a "kit". When I should simply be able to buy the adaptor and a cooler. I know that a Ford oil filter fits so I'd assume the same sadwhich adaptor would work. Has anybody done this cheaper method. Becuase I can get the adaptor for 20-30 bucks and a cheap oil cooler for next to nothing. | ||
| Buellistic |
Ryker: The best thing you can do is put a return line OIL FILTER on !!! E-MAIL me so "i" can get you e-mail address and "i" will send you a picture of mine ... Ljenne73c@verizon.net | ||
| Ryker77 |
Another even cheaper idea. Mount a small oil cooler under the seat. Just use the oil return line to feed it. Then let it drain back to the oil tank. Not the coolest option,. Since there would be no air flow. But it would radiate some of the 200 degree oil heat to the 80-100 degree surrounding air. | ||
| Fullpower |
the key phrase here is "200 degree oil" you are just barely getting the oil warm ENOUGH. last thing you need here is more oil plumbing. | ||
| Buellistic |
As long as the oil is 160 degrees or more it is hot enough !!! | ||
| Ryker77 |
Fullpower. I live down in Georgia. I run 210 static cranking pressure, 12.5:1 pistons, N80 cam----- so I make enough heat to need more plumbing. Besides it's been proven that 180 degree oil is hot enough. Any hotter than 220 and some oil damage occurs. Both of my cars keep oil temps at a perfect 180 degree's. | ||
| Davefl |
Ryker, look here, it shows the one that I used.. $80 for one with a thermostat and 40 for one without.. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/81131.html?1093542951 | ||
| Blake |
I disagree LaFayette. Optimally, the oil should reach 212oF inside the engine in order to boil off accumulated moisture. That means at least 180oF, preferably 190oF is needed as measure in the oil tank. | ||
| Jayvee |
Others have said no sandwich adapter is needed, just run the lines from the oil pump. I don't know how that would work exactly, just what I read. So the cost could be just the "next to nothing" for a 'No thermostat version.' Can't beat that price. On ebay, the Lockhart 400 type coolers go for $35 to $100 depending on whether the Harley name is in the auction title. Thermostats/by-pass valves run from $40 to $80. I would rather have an automatic thermostat, I think. Where can you get the Ford adaptor plates so cheap? And the cooler for next to nothing? (Message edited by jayvee on May 08, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
H-D thermostats are calaberated open at 180 degrees so engine oil can circulate thru the oil cooler(you should have one)... If your engine does start to boil off accumulated moisture(water) untill the engine temperature reaches 160 degrees ... | ||
| Ryker77 |
ford adaptor plates either ebay or summitracing oil coolers from ebay.. just bought one for 20.00 to use on my car. Heat? does the oil need to be hot enough to boil off water ALL OF THE TIME? or would just the normal WOT take off or freeway on ramps be enough heat to boil off water? Does any modern day car run at 212 degree's. Becuase the last few I've owned stay at 180 degree's. | ||
| Djkaplan |
You don't need any kind of adaptor to plumb an oil cooler to a tuber, you can splice directly into the feed line from the oil pump to the filter. One of the 3%er's in Georgia did this to his M2. He also used a Lockhart thermostat... it was a pretty straightforward installation. | ||
| Ryker77 |
summit racing- TRD-1313 31.00 PRM-181 19.00 non thermostat DER-15702 43.00 EAR-510ERL 28.00 non thermostat | ||
| Blake |
Ryker, Isn't engine coolant temperature significantly different than engine lubricant temperature? Without knowing oil temp, it's hard to say what type and duration of operation might be required to achieve enough engine heat buildup to vaporize moisture accumulated in the engine oil. It's not a catastrophe if the oil doesn't get hot enough, but it does significantly reduce the service life of the lubricant. This is the primary reason almost all manufacturers' suggested oil change intervals include an admonition that if operation is repeatedly for short durations, the engine oil service interval should be reduced significantly, usually by half. Where does all this problematic moisture come from and how does it accumulate in the engine oil you might ask? Consider the idealized (theoretically perfect) basic combustion chemical reaction occurring inside every gasoline engine... Now consider the portion of combustion products that manage to "blow-by" the piston rings into the crankcase. Now consider what happens when steam (water vapor) comes into contact with a cool (relatively speaking) environment. BEWARE dihydrogen monoxide!  | ||
| Jayvee |
Hey thanks, the part numbers help. The only Ford adaptor plate I seen on ebay lately had had a set price of about $60 or so, for a no thermostat version, and I think the fittings were extra too. It was a blue anodized one. | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
These people- http://www.thinkauto.com/ Manufacture the range of "Mocal" Oil coolers and accessories. I'm sure that Rocket knows of them. I've bought the Thermostatic Adapter, the Oil Cooler and Stainless Braided hoses off them. I'm considering removing the oil cooler though. I think it has only operated about twice in the 6 or 7 years it has been fitted! (Message edited by steveshakeshaft on May 10, 2006) (Message edited by steveshakeshaft on May 10, 2006) | ||
| Djkaplan |
"BEWARE dihydrogen monoxide! " Very dangerous stuff. It's everywhere and if you breathe in just a little bit of it, it can kill you. Thankfully, it's emitted only in very small amounts when the engine oil heats up. |
