| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Madstuka, Sounds like a bad kickstand safety switch. You can verify this by unplugging the connector near the switch and shorting the circuit (a wad of aluminum foil works well, or some use a paper clip). | ||
| Blake |
Or it could be the safety switch on the clutch lever itself. Same drill as above.  | ||
| Sparky |
Kahuna, I'm new to FI bikes myself with 2.7k miles on a Firebolt, but if the bike has an external idle speed knob, you can try adjusting the idle speed lower and see if that helps. It almost seems like the ECM doesn't know the throttle's closed. Maybe have the dealer recalibrate the TPS. Sparky | ||
| Blake |
Yes, the throttle must be fully closed, as in 100% shut, idle screw completely backed off, not even touching the throttle lever. But have your tech reset the ECM, don't let him even touch the TPS.  | ||
| Kahuna |
I know, I know! But i swear I've had the TPS reset twice already.  | ||
| Kahuna |
I have no idea how this fixes it, but Sparky is bang on!!! Alhough I have reset the TPS twice already, backing out the idle screw was the fix!?? bike idles great now. I have a feeling that my dealer is not doing the TPS zero correctly. Thanks guys! | ||
| Blake |
Sounds like he didn't set the idle correctly after performing the reset. Glad you got it figured out! Now all you gotta do is wash all that WD40 from your engine. ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Javahed |
Mapping question for Ya'll, Got a 2000 X1, race ECM, K&N filter in the stock airbox (snorkel inside is gone) and will have a full D&D exhaust the day after tomorrow. Has anyone dyno'ed a setup like this to get a map for their Power Commander III? I'm looking for a map to get me running relatively good here in Seattle until I get to a dyno shop and dial it in. No luck trying Power Commander or D&D. Any help is most appreciated! Thanks  Dan | ||
| Javahed |
Oh yeah - got that over priced O2 sensor on the bike also  Dan | ||
| Blake |
Javahead, Why do you think you need a PCIII on top of the race ECM? To put it bluntly, I think you just wasted the price of the PCIII. Put the race ECM on, have it flashed for TPS zero and you are there. Make sure you use O2 sensor friendly sealant when assembling your exhaust system. If your stock O2 sensor was working, why did you install a new one? | ||
| Hootowl |
Blake, The new O2 sensor is of the four wire "broadband" type. Allows closed loop fuel management outside the normal range. Yes, I have one, but I have the base map in it, 'cause the race ECM seems to be doing just fine. | ||
| Rempss |
I'll second Hootowl, I feel the PCIII was a big waste of money. Marketing got me again. I have run the "zero" map for most of my riding, and it runs the best. The 4 wire sensor does allow for adjustability outside of the non-heated 1 wire sensor, but what good does it serve? Only thing it gave me was the ability to read the O2 voltage reliably right after start-up and at idle. The readings I have documented only prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that the Race ECM is enough for even more serious modifications than bolt on pipes and aircleaners. In some cases it may add better "rideability" depending on coughing or surging associated with your set-up. I have the Force pipe, which is supposed to have the worst record for low RPM coughing, but it does not happen with my bike running the zero map. If you think it will give you more power over the Race ECM, it won't. The Race ECM runs the O2 sensor to a .875+ voltage output while at wide open throttle, this translates to 12.5:1/13:1 A/F. Perfect for normally aspirated power. The 4 wire O2 sensor supplied by PC is a Standard Motor Products #SG27, less expensive at the local auto parts store. Also looks like a more solid unit than the Bosch 12716(7). See for more information (and my opinion):http://www.americanthunderbike.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=30&post=4302#POST4302 . Also bunches of posts here on Badweb if you search for PCIII. Jeff | ||
| Blake |
Thanks Jeff. | ||
| Peter |
OK. Who's cluey on CV's? Anyone? I bought a needle and main jet to suit the turbo application last week. The night before I wanted to fire it up, I went to rejet the carb. Inside I found that it had been fitted with a jet kit of some aftermarket brand. I pulled the carb of the M2 and rejetted it instead. Bike ran fine. I bought the parts to convert the first carb back to stock for the new owner. Fitted it up to the M2 and it ran like shit. He was picking it up in an hour, so I whipped the one back of the turbo and rejetted it for the M2. It ran fine. The new owner took delivery. I noticed a large hole had been drilled in the slide of the one I still have, so I replaced the slide. It now has a new slide, spring, needle, emulsion tube, pilot and main jet. Float height is correct. It is all set up the same as I set up the carb from the M2, which ran well. The bike will run on the choke, but very rich. When the choke is pushed in, it will die. When the idle adjusting screw is wound up, it will die. If I give it any throttle, it will die. I've tried varying the pilot screw. It does not go badly lean when the choke is pushed in, it just dies. All the air holes are clear. The accelerator pump works. I'm going to get another body tomorrow and try it, but I'd like to know what is happening with this one. Any ideas? PPiA | ||
| Totway |
I need help with jetting, I just installed an Autometer air/fuel gauge and as I suspected I'm running rich acroos all circuits. I have the stock cv40 with a Dynojet thunderslide installed by the dealer at purchase, I also run a Vance and Hines can and a carbon race aircleaner.. I pulled the carb and its a 175 jet that the dealer tells me is of a diffrent range than stock Keihn sizes (possibly equivalent to a 195?) My air/fuel gauge reads in the top 5 or 6 led's always except during a down shift. Is anyone familiar with Dynojets should I step down one or two sizes? I hope I've given all pertinent data. Thanks in advance! Tim | ||
| Ara |
Tim, opinions abound and I'm not a real experienced carb tuner, but the first thing I'd try would be to ditch the funky jet and get a 195. You need a known baseline, and the 175 jet that runs rich would be the likely first thing to eliminate from the equation. Russ | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Totway I have the K&N Fuel/Air unit!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have throttle marked in quarters ie:1/4,1/2, 3/4,WFO...................................... Ride in a deserted area monitoring the LED bars.. Jet for between 13.5 to 12.5 at each 1/4 of throttle openings. If you wish to discuss this on a land line feel free to call(813)661-2664. In buelling LaFayette,aka BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Totway |
Good point Ara, But despite the richness ridability is very good and changing to standard jets requires replacing the emulsion tube and then I may run into problems with the slide metering so I'd prefer to tune the exiesting setup. Guess I'll just drop in single steps until its reading right. Thanks! | ||
| Fogcity |
I've been posting questions on the "general" board regarding a problem I've been having - I feel I may be wearing out my welcome so I'll post here. The problem has been that I won't get spark, then will. The dealer just installed a new coil, but it hasn't helped. A new Bank Angle switch hasn't helped. Bypassing the kickstand switch hasn't helped. The reason I'm posting this in "carboration" is that today each time the bike died (3 times within 7 miles of city streets) it happened during acceleration from a dead stop. It would cut out before I made it into 2nd gear. When it did die, I noticed (each time) light gray smoke coming out of the tailpipe. The first couple times attempting to restart it sounded like the engine would try to fire up but then immediately bog down. Then, on all other tries, it was just the starter motor turning. After waiting for 5-10 minutes, it would start just fine, only to die a couple miles later. Blake had responded twice to my posts asking if I was sure there was no spark and I said yes, however now I'm not sure. This problem started happening on the 2nd ride after I had the 42mm Flatside installed, so I'm really starting to wonder if this is the culprit. My question is has anyone had simmilar problems after switching to this carb? I assumed they were set for optimum performance from the factory, but is there a quick and easy way to verify this? Oh, one other thing - At a stop light I gave the throtle a quick light twist with the clutch in and it died. However, it started right back up after only two tries. Weird. Also, I put in new plugs @ 30 miles ago. They're pretty black now but not "cakie". Sorry to be so wordy. Thanks. | ||
| Javahed |
Well............ Thanks for the advice guys. I had a PCIII before, then got the race ECM - then sold the PCIII. Regretted it ever since. Throttle response was smoother, milage was better, and it just seemed a bit spunkier. Call it reality or just the placebo effect of having another thingamajig stuck under my seat, but I am a lot happier having the PCIII back in the mix. It's also nice to be able to fine tune the system when you add new things - like a D&D exhaust -- hint hint Thanks! Dan | ||
| Blake |
Javehead Dan, I think you are missing something and jumping to a false concusion. How you can you fine tune a system that is already set up to automatically run at an A/F ratio optimized for peak performance? If the PCIII could adjust the advance curve you would have a valid point, but it cannot. It only affects A/F (carburetion). If you need a PCIII to make a simple race kitted bike run well, then you most likely have a problem that is causing symptoms that the PCIII is simply masking. Address the root of the problem, not the symptoms. I'd be strongly inclined to have a verification of cam sensor timing and ECM recalibration for TPS zero. You might also verify that your intake seals are not leaking. | ||
| Blake |
I have to admit, you might have a point on the throttle response thing though. I'll be real interested in seeing your dyno results, before and after PCIII. | ||
| Javahed |
The bike ran like a raped ape with just the race ECM, it just seemed a bit more refined with the PC (again, this could be my subconsious just helping me justify the spending ) All that is pretty much a mute point - it's bought, paid for and installed. The D&D goes on after my next ER shift and I just want to make sure everything is running as sweet as possible. Whenever I manage to get to the local shop's dyno, I'll grab the before and afters for ya'll Have fun! Dan | ||
| Blake |
I know what you mean. Every time I change fluids, I feel like the engine is running stronger. LOL. | ||
| Fogcity |
Every time I wash it I feel the whole bike is running better. | ||
| Javahed |
HEY!!! My bike does get faster every time I wash it Dan | ||
| Jammerjohn |
I was wondering abot the intake keep it stock or gut and put in that different k/n and plug the holes or get a fancy after market one.(like a force or a hyper charger) and has any one used the one from crossroads? I"ve read though the achives and have heard different opinions. | ||
| Javahed |
Jeff, You mentioned the "zero" map earlier - what is that exactly? How can I set my PCIII to that? Is it a map in itself or are all the values just zero (or all the above)? I'd be interested in trying that on my bike and then getting it dyno tuned and seeing what, if any, the difference is. Thanks Dan | ||
| Hootowl |
Javahed, The "zero" map is the base map, and yes, the fuel gain factors are all at zero. In other words, the PC makes no changes to the injector signal's pulse width from the ECM. You can download it from powercommander.com, I believe it is the first map listed. | ||
| X1glider |
Why not just take the PCIII out instead of running a zero map? Save a few ounces and gain .001 HP while you're at it? |
