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Ozzyxb9r
Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2004 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can some one guide me through the pitfalls of changing the rear wheel on my XB9R?

what tools will i need ect? im mostly concerned with the belt..or even where to start!

cheers

morgan
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Tpoppa
Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 02:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

get the manual...follow all the steps.

If you take shortcuts you'll likely have to replace the drive belt.
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Ozzyxb9r
Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 03:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ahh yes the manual. it would probably take me a few weeks to get a manual and i was looking to do it this weekend...
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Lovematt
Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ozzy,

I have the same bike you do and this is what I do:

1. Get rear wheel up on a stand (pitbull/landis) so it is not on the ground nor on the side stand.

2. Loosen pinch bolt cinching up the rear axle.

3. Loosen rear axle about 15 turns or until you see the taper near the middle of the axle or until the belt is a bit looser (it may not flop but will be less tight).

4. Take off front pulley plastic cover.

5. Take off Idler Pulley assembly (the two bolts...not the one on the wheel itself).

6. I take off rear brake caliper at this point to give myself more room and wrap it with a rag and hang it to the side with string (don't like to hang from brake line hose).

7. Support rear wheel from underneath with something so it won't fall and start to remove axle.

8. DO NOT BEND, TWIST, FORCE BELT if at all possible while removing axle completely and then moving wheel directly sideways clear from belt path and out she comes. These belts are notch sensitive (cuts/nicks) as well as being local pressure sensitive (think pry bar or bending sideways) and are apt to break.

I think that is everything...get wheel deal delt with and then reverse order to put back together.
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Darthane
Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DO NOT BEND, TWIST, FORCE BELT. PERIOD.

NOT 'if at all possible'. It is always possible unless you are doing something wrong.

DO NOT BEND, TWIST, OR FORCE THE BELT.
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Al_lighton
Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you have an 03 with the 30mm tooth pitch Gates belt, the instructions are more complex. You take off the guards and the upper swingarm brace to yank the wheel per the manual. PITA, but necessary. Shortcuts will kill your belt.

The 04's with the Goodyear belt are pretty much as written above. The rear upper and lower belt guards remain, as does the swing arm brace. The belt will likely flex ever so slightly as you take it off the pulley, but there is enough clearance on the upper guard to not have to twist the belt and it will require no force. If you're pushin', stop.

I have 03 9R manuals in stock but getting one to Australia by this weekend might be a bit pricey... : )
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Xb9er
Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can scan the relevant pages of the service manual and e-mail them to you. Let me know if you still need them.

Mike.
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Ozzyxb9r
Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks to everyone who has replied to this post! i have had a large amount of feedback on this and some one is going as far as making me a copy of the manual and arranging a time to meet up!

Gotta love this buell community!!!

i should be sorted now, thanks again!
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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2004 - 01:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have changed the rear wheel with 04 setup (converted from 03) without removing the idler pulley assembly. After the wheel is set loose (removing the axle), there is enough slack in the belt to laterally slide the belt off the rear pulley. Installing is the same way, while the rear wheel is pushed all the way forward and lifted off the ground (a spacer between the ground and the wheel), you can slide the belt laterally into the rear pulley. You can then insert the axle and thread it in several turns or so and rotate the wheel so that the belt fully aligns with the rear pulley. Tighten the axle thereafter. It's easier with the belt guard removed.
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Glitch
Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2004 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gotta love this buell community!!!
It's what it's all about!
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Xbolt12
Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2004 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have heard but didn't try it yet, that the removing the caliper step is unnecessary as long as the rear wheel is off the ground high enough get the wheel out by dropping it down slightly.

This would make the process even quicker.

xbolt12
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Lovematt
Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2004 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The first time I took off the tire I left the caliper on and it can be done but the rear needs to be lifted a bit. I took off the caliper to put in back on and since then and it just gives a little more room to work with is all. It is not required but I find it works better for me at least.
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