| Author | Message | ||
     Dennis_c |
   I hope this will work on that long tube between the bearings cut 2 notches in the tub so a punch of some kind can knock them out. I will find out the next time I change the bearings only need to do one side. | ||
| Sprintst |
Should work, though you can just drive out a bearing with a drift pin, assuming you don't mind destroying it | ||
| Dennis_c |
How there is no movement in the spacer thats why I cut the spacer | ||
| No_rice |
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-pu ller-95987.html much cleaner, and MUCH easier on the wheel then cocking the bearing side to side in a press fit area as you try to pound it out without removing to much material from the wheel... and many uses | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Tim said. I've used the HF puller on 6 different wheels. Way easier on the bore that tapping them out side to side. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Puller is the way to go, and they can be had for not much coin - plus you don't have to mangle the bearing spacer. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Should work, though you can just drive out a bearing with a drift pin, assuming you don't mind destroying it. Almost ANY bearing you remove from a wheel should be considered destroyed. The only way to remove the first bearing is to drive the bearing out of the wheel by somehow applying impacts to the inner race since the outer race is inaccessible. These impacts very likely cause the balls to dent both the inner and outer races and/or create flat spots on the balls. If you re-use one of these bearings, it is likely to fail in a very few miles. I suppose it is possible to drive the remaining bearing out of the wheel without destroying it once the first bearing is removed along with the sleeve. IF you can use your drift to catch the edge of the outer race of the remaining bearing, you should be able to drive it out without denting the races. OTOH, by the time you've gone to that much trouble you might as well drop another $15-$30 on a new bearing and do the job right. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Removing the wheel bearings from an XB Wheel can be very difficult. Many blind bearing pullers can’t get adequate purchase on the inner bearing to provide enough removal force, and even if they can, they can still bugger the spacer tube. I destroyed a HF blind bearing puller trying to remove one set of bearings that were particularly tight. My bearing removal tool is a 1 foot steel rod the same diameter as the axle, a box of un-plated steel washers with an OD that is the same as the axle, all available from Mcmaster Carr for pretty cheap. I support the wheel parallel to the ground at a height that puts the end of the rod halfway through the bearing. I drop the washer onto the end of the rod, clip a ground cable to the steel rod where it touches the ground, and then hit a couple welds to the washer and the inside race of the bearing. Then I use the same rod to press the bearing out. Works great, and there is zero trauma to the bearing spacer end. The bearing is of course toast once you've welded a washer into it. But it was toast anyway, per what Hugh wrote. | ||
| Dennis_c |
Al_lighton Thats about the same thing I did I used a big bolt and welded to inner race of bearing then drove it out with a pipe. I only have an ark welder so sparks fly everywhere. I thought that those notches would be easer. |
