| Author | Message | ||
     Hunger |
I've got periodic clanking/scraping sound coming from I think rear wheel, the frequency is correlated with speed. At ~20mph it's like 1 clank per second. Is that a bearing failure? I haven't noticed any handling problems. EDIT: Just found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Duq9G4RpWDI and yes, it's very similar sound but less frequent and I can't make it by spinnig the wheel by hand, only when riding. (Message edited by Hunger on April 07, 2016) | ||
| Ourdee |
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| Falloutnl |
Yup that's the bearing. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Just pull the rear wheel and check the bearings by hand. It's only a few minutes work and might save you from a very dramatic and unsafe problem on the street. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The first/easiest check to make is visual: if you see brown/rust streaks coming out from the bearing seal, odds are the bearings are shot. If you don't see anything, pull the wheel as Jim suggests. Not only is a failing bearing unsafe, but you can ruin the wheel, axle, spacer, swingarm, brake disc, and brake caliper in short order if the bearing completely fails while you're riding. | ||
| Hunger |
But that sound... all chicks look your way  And all the rest too. No way I can take the bearings out myself. I gave the wheel to someone smarter. I can't imagine how it could be done on the side of the road. Two questions: 1) Wheel installation. Should you clean or/and lube the axle in some way or just put it back the same state it was? 2) Does it hurt if you accidentally scratch the spacer when removing the bearings? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Yes, wipe the axle clean with a rag and apply anti-seize to the threads and bearing areas on the axle. Otherwise it can seize in place and be MUCH harder to remove next time. Also pay attention to the torque sequence in the manual: torque to ~25 ft-lbs, back off 2 full turns, torque to ~50 ft-lbs. Some people use a lower torque value for the final torque based on the belief that the factory recommended torque is too high and leads to short bearing life. "Scratch" the spacer? That doesn't hurt anything. Physically deform one end of it so the bearing inner races don't fit up to it tight- bad news. Get a new spacer. | ||
| Hunger |
Yes, wipe the axle clean with a rag and apply anti-seize to the threads and bearing areas on the axle. Otherwise it can seize in place and be MUCH harder to remove next time. Got it. I guess a copper grease/spray will do. "Scratch" the spacer? That doesn't hurt anything. Physically deform one end of it so the bearing inner races don't fit up to it tight- bad news. Get a new spacer. Just inner surface of the spacer. No damage at the ends. | ||
| Motorbike |
Does your bearing look like this? If so, it's shot.  | ||
| Bmwdavid |
Yikes! | ||
| Ourdee |
I use the copper for spark plugs and the silver grease for axles. I also paint the bearings with it before installing them in the wheel. | ||
| Ourdee |
I lost both rear bearings at the same time, at 70+ mph. Steady clicking sound, and I could feel it through the pegs with my feet. Then the rear end felt loose and the bike wobbled side to side. A corner at speed would have been messed up, but I was pulling a hill in a straight line with a heavy load. I had maybe a mile of warning. | ||
| Hunger |
I got the wheel is back, installed exactly like you (and the manual) suggested, Hughlysses. The clicking is gone. By the way, should the wheel be tightened while it's standing on the ground or lifted or it doesn't matter? Also do you guys apply threadlocker on rear brake mounting bolts? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It doesn't matter. The axle is shaped like an apple core so that as you tighten it in, it tightens up the belt. Make sure the belt is where you want it before finishing tightening up the axle. Also a good time saver is to compress the rear brake caliper so that it's opened up. Just don't forget to pump it up once the wheel is back on  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Yes, I use thread locker on the caliber mounting bolts. Don't forget to tighten up the axle pinch bolt too. | ||
| Arry |
Tip for the future. You don't have to remove the brake caliper, to remove the wheel. | ||
| Tootal |
Yes, I use thread locker on the caliber mounting bolts. What caliber are those mounting bolts Hugh?  | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ freaking auto-correct... | ||
| Hunger |
Don't forget to tighten up the axle pinch bolt too. It sounds silly but if I had only loosed not *removed* it I would have forgotten |
