| Author | Message | ||
     Advoutlander |
Reading the buell handbook it advises to use 10w40 in temperatures under 40f. Is anyone currently running 10w40? Im assuming it must be synthetic? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The grades overlap too. I'm pretty sure 20-50 goes below 40F. I've only ever run 20-50 I seldom ride when it's below freezing though. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I use 10w40 or 5w40 through the winter (temperatures below 60F). Does not need to be synthetic. | ||
| Advoutlander |
When switching from 20w50 to 10w40 am I supposed to have the oil professionally sucked up so the 2 grades dont mix or is draining the oil as normal sufficient? | ||
| Portero72 |
It is fine just to drain as normal. | ||
| Thumpthump |
You might consider a multi flush when changing viscosity. Drain old oil and replace filter, refill with new and run the bike at idle for no more than 1 minute, shut down and drain and replace filter. Now refill with new oil of same viscosity and enjoy. Or just change, drive and enjoy. | ||
| Eaglerider |
I run 20W50 year round. I prefer synthetic as the air-cooled motor is hard on the oil. | ||
| Tootal |
Through my work place training I went to a lubrication class. The instructor was a lubrication engineer and seemed very knowledgeable. During a break I asked him about automotive lubes and his comment was that 10w40 was the worst oil you can use. He told me that the polymers, that act like little springs, will grow with heat and make the oil thicker. The problem is, in order to make a 10w oil act like a 40w oil you have to use so many "little springs" you have a lot less room for actual lubricants! He recommended 10w30 for a "Winter" oil. He also said that making a 20w oil act like a 50w oil was a lot easier than making a 10w act like a 40. I'm not here to debate anything, just passing along some info from somebody who should know what he's talking about. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
The problem is that when the bike sits in a very cold environment with heavy oil in it, it won't spin over properly when starting. The manual says to use lighter oil in these conditions and that works for the starting issue. Problem solved, right? Nope. Consider this; After starting the bike and riding it, the engine comes up to normal operating temp only now it has light oil in it. Not a good thing. So the light oil fixes the starting problem but causes another potentially bad problem with lubrication. Face it, you will spend vastly more time riding than starting the bike. What is the better answer? Opinions come into the equation at this point and can run wildly across the spectrum with some of them being potentially disastrous. Some people swear by synthetic lubricants and some, like myself, won't use them for whatever reasons. The common ground here is that we all want our beloved engines to run as long and as dependably as possible period. I don't have the answer but I can offer this advice from the factory service manual on my 1950 FL. It seems the problem was successfully cured well over sixty years ago. The manual states that for the 50 FL, 50w for winter cold, 60w for moderate temps and 70w for the heat of summer. Yup. STRAIGHT 50W IN THE WINTER!! Can you imagine trying to start your bike when its 25 degrees with straight 50w in it? It don't work so very good. That's why they go further to say that if you dilute your engine oil with kerosene, it will start easily and during the operation of the bike, the kerosene will evaporate, leaving the proper 50w oil to do the proper job. I know this doesn't answer the question of "is 10 40 ok to use". I just thought I would offer it as an interesting point for conversation. At no time have I added kerosene to the oil in any of my motorcycles. carry on | ||
| Xbimmer |
15W-40 HD diesel rated, I'm using Chevron Delo LE now. Works great, low consumption between changes, designed for durability far in excess of the 2500 miles I change it out. I only go back to 20W-50 June-September these days. YMMV. | ||
| Crusty |
I think oil chemistry has progressed a bit in the past 50 years. Engines give off heat much faster when it's cold, so the oil doesn't get as hot and doesn't thin out as much. With my Shovelhead, I would use 20w-50 during the winter months, and straight 60 during the hot months. Once I started riding Evos, I ran 20w-50 year round. My Shovelhead had 72K on it when I traded it in, and My FLHS had 125K on it when I sold it. Both ran just fine. With my Buells, once H-D started selling Syn3, I used that. I never had an oil related problem, and the bikes would start and run fine from -1(F) to 104(F). | ||
| Datsaxman |
I run Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 all the time. It is 20 degrees F right now, and I put on almost 700 miles Friday and Saturday. A little slower cranking when cold, but just another day at the office once it has been running for five minutes that day. NEVER do what thumpthump said. Unless you just have a lot of extra $$ and really like doing oil changes. Quite unnecessary. | ||
| Luftkoph |
Just some food for thought,were I live it gets fairly cold,it can drop into the -40s for night after night,and never see the high side of 0 for days,when you start a car in that weather it sounds horrible,you can hear the oil pump whining. So years ago for a little experiment I put a quart each of 10-40 dino,10-40 semi synthetic and 10-40 synthetic into the freezer,2 days latter I poured them out,well I tried to pour the dino out more like spoon it out,but the other 2 poured very nicely. have since then used nothing but synthetic,even in my snow blower | ||
| Skifastbadly |
So years ago for a little experiment I put a quart each of 10-40 dino,10-40 semi synthetic and 10-40 synthetic into the freezer, I assume you're single. | ||
| Uly_man |
You DO NOT need to flush the engine on changing to another oil grade. What is NOT a good idea is to KEEP changing to other grades. Stick to one or the other. Synthetic oils are "man-made" and were designed to work in high performance engines that run VERY hot ie Turbos and the like. The 20W50 oil was designed by Morris oils for the air cooled V-Twins a long time ago. Before WW11 I think and is a mineral based oil. This grade gives very good lubrication across the wide temp range of these engines. You can use a Synthetic in a Buell if you wish but you cant in some older things as it can damage "old type" O rings, seals, etc. Yes the oil is very thick cold but that true for all engine oils. I put some in my bike the other day and I had a problem just pouring it out of the bottle. These bikes WILL start fine even from very cold but the battery, even the OEM HD AGM one, MUST be charged right, looked after and I think is the key to the problem. You need to consider the nature of a air cooled engine. Yes you can just start it up and ride away but a couple of mins idling and taking it easy on the engine for a few miles will add greatly to the long term life of the engine. You need to allow the heat to "work through" the engine and tranny for best results. Something Porker owners know only to well. I myself use a "semi-syntetic" 20W50 oil which I think is a good balance for the engine given the cost as I still change it out every 2K miles. Good quality clean oils and filters work great on any engine. But thats just me. | ||
| Luftkoph |
I assume you're single. I'm flattered at the pass,but no I was married at the time,hmmm maybe this is part of the reason I'm not now | ||
| Uly_man |
Luftkoph. Dont put yourself down, Dude? I for one welcome anyone who "makes an effort" rather than just "Bum off" others skills. What you tried might be sad, bad, mad or otherwise but it showed something that is VERY hard to find these days. It could be called many things, I just call it "free" thought. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Not making a pass, simply indicating that my wife wouldn't let me put oil in the freezer any sooner than she'd allow me to wash my aircleaner in the dishwasher. | ||
| Luftkoph |
Easy fellas I'm not down getting rid of that ball and chain was the best day of my life. I would not wash an air filter in the dishwasher either,hell it could damage the filter. My present female companion dose'nt mind all 3 bikes in the house for the winter,so down I not,happy I be | ||
| Arcticktm |
Not to nit pick, but there are certainly fully synthetic versions of 20W50 available, at least at cycle shops in the US. 20W50 is not exclusive to conventional oils. I also do not think synthetics have any established compatibility issues with older seals, o-rings etc. The issue is more older bikes having lower quality sealing, or deteriorated seals, and the synthetic oils will tend to leak past those compromised seals easier than conventional oils. Especially since many end up with a lower viscosity base oil when they switch to synthetic. | ||
| Ferrisanyoneseenferris |
Any guy who's wife wouldn't allow anything motorcycle related in any part of the house, including in any appliance, needs to change the wife like you'd change your oil. Mine buys me my bikes and tolerates anything that goes along with them, because when she needs me to handle something else, I'm there 100%. In my mind, its a fair trade off... |
