| Author | Message | ||
     Treadmarks |
No fancy catch cans for me. Clean up your intake air supply with American Sport Bikes open air kit and PCV relocation kit.  | ||
| Jim_sb |
Is there any possibility that the improperly fitted breather hoses could be a culprit in the pinging issue due to some effect on the air intake sensor? Just curious. Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Red_chili |
Some assembly line retraining is definitely in order. And some re-documentation of wire harness assembly - if they are actually following the existing procedures! | ||
| Treadmarks |
Is there any possibility that the improperly fitted breather hoses could be a culprit in the pinging issue due to some effect on the air intake sensor? I believe the pinging issues were a combination of too much advance timing and too much compression. Possibly an issue with the casting of the 06 head design. Someone in this forum indicated that there is a design change for the 07 heads, maybe to reduce the compression enough to prevent pinging. Wouldn't it be nice, if every bike was dyno tuned before you bought it.  | ||
| Davo |
Treadmarks, I am with you on that. The new heads have different part numbers and the reflash reveal the culprit. As soon as I have the time to pull the mill down I will publish my data. Until then I will run the ignition late and never leave home without my cell phone. If I have to go far and absolutely have to get there, I will ride the Ultra. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Davo, Harley sure has their collective shiite wired. I own HOG shares so I ask the local dealers what is selling and how well. Omaha HD said that they wish they could get their hands on more Screaming Eagle Ultra's with the 110ci engine because they sell like hotcakes. $36K each. Unbelievable. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Harley Davidson sold more bikes last year than any manufacturer...more than Honda/ Yamaha/ Suzuki with all the dirt bikes and sport bikes etc...Info from last months M/C Consumer News. No bubble bursting here. | ||
| Bienhoabob |
I pulled my air cover base plate. (No trouble with the 4 screws as other have reported.) I had two thin wires (must be sensor wires) resting directly on the rear cylinder. Also what appears to be part of the main harness, again was resting on the rear cylinder. One of the sensor wires had about 1/2 of the wire wrap chaffed off. I think a plastic electrical connect was chaffing the top of the cylinder head. It looks like the rubbing mark the seat made on the same head. I rerouted the wires/harness out of harms way. Hopefully I caught everything. As suggested before, check your wiring. Bob | ||
| Buellinabq |
I guess I need to check again on the plug wire connections to make sure they are tight. I just went for a ride. Little hard to start, since it's the low 30's outside. My idle has always been about 800-900 looking at the tach. After a 35 mile ride, I adjusted it so the tach shows about 1000 or just under. Also, when I did that, the rubber heater hose I put on a few days ago fell off the idle cable. So, I have to fix that again too. Hopefully it will start up easier next time. Always started up fine before it got below 40. I wonder how many minutes you can crank the motor before the battery dies. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Bienhoi...now that you know what I was talking about ..mine was just like yours.. check one more thing...The main wiring harness is covered with a piece of hard black plastic and fastened to the left inside frame between the coil and the front plug wire..ok..now coming off of that main harness at a 90 degree angle on the top is a group of wires wrapped in the friction type tape..these wire rub on the spark plug or cable wires and they are rubbed on the BOTTOM side toward the ground..I had to reach down in there with a long screw driver and push them away. Mine was rubbed thru the taping and the yellow wire was showing thru..I think I caught in time last night. | ||
| Bienhoabob |
I'll check it out first thing tomorrow. Thanks, good stuff, Adrian | ||
| Adrian_8 |
The problem area I am talking about is in the "tunnel", you might have to take the coil out to really get to it and then it is difficult..I am still trying to figure out how to protect the harness that is chafed down in this dark hole near the front plug..The good thing now is the bike runs much smoother with the new Magnecore wires and the Iridium plugs..I always had a buck and jump about 1/4 mile from the house on take off..I think it is gone . The bare plug wire could have been the culprit. | ||
| Etennuly |
It is interesting to hear that the new TT has a new wiring harness. Same engine, new harness, they are listening and hearing! But still, even though under warranty, we all have to fix our own. What's up with that?  | ||
| Buellinabq |
That is interesting. Sounds like they do know about the problems and they should recall it and fix it. I'm going to be so pissed off when the wires melt through as I didn't get airbox completely off when I checked so I couldn't ziptie up some of the wires and they are still resting on the motor in 2 spots that I could see. I've only got 1342 miles and my idle wire is melted pretty bad on the cylinder head bolt and the 2 sensor wires are still touching the cylinder head where the wiring harness just barely has a small gap, but it almost looks like it's resting on the back cylinder even though I tried to push them up a little. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Buellinabq, Invest in an air impact driver and set the air compressor to 80psi. Use #27 torx and they should come off as mine did. I went out and bought one just because of the tight screws. Worked like magic. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Buellinabq...I used tie wraps to center up the sensor wire down thru the motor, I tied them off to the center frame supports..My baseplate screws were not very tight..a combination of heavy oil puke and a torx bit did the job. I really need a new harness too as the wires are showing thru and could possibly be bare. Is that your front plug wire I smell melting? | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Got my Magnacor #2557 today. Just finished installing them along with a new set of plugs. Adrian, I looked all over for more chaffed wires, I did find that the idle adj. wire was worn and left a rust deposit on the front cylinder nut. I zip tied that cable. Rereading your post, I might have one more someplace. (I didn't remove the coil.) Anyway at least I have solved four possible future problems by reading this thread. | ||
| Buellinabq |
I got the base plate off. It was easy, my bolts all came out easily, but I couldn't get the breather hoses out, which is why I didn't get it off all the way. They wouldn't push out the bottom, they kind of had a grove in the rubber at the baseplate holes and I couldn't squeeze and press them down through it. Maybe I'll just cut it off and get some new hose. No, it's the idle adjustment cable that's melting on the cylinder head bolt like in Treadmarks picture. From what I could see and feel, the plug wires weren't rubbing on anything, but Treadmarks picture makes me want to open it up and pull the wires off and re-seat them to make sure they are on all the way. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
You have to pull the front plug wire totally off/out of the coil to be sure..Which means to get it back on correctly the coil needs to come out. Then with the coil out check real close where the front wire was laying on the harness or keep it from laying on the harness. Use a flashlight to see. Check the harness in the "Tunnel" real close. I slid my harness thru the loop where it is fastened at the front of the frame to get a little more slack. The breather hoses can be pulled out from the bottom not pushed from the top..do not cut them off you need the length to get everything wiggled back it place. The magnecore wires have a smaller plug boot that fits in this tight place much easier. Tinker Away.. | ||
| Teeps |
Try this stuff for all your anti-chaffing needs. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/spir alwrap.php | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Thanks...but the problem is getting to the wear point which is down in a dark hole, you can barely touch it with one finger. The whole harness needs to come out to wrap it, or shrink wrap it...Eric Buell had an interview and said they were working on a new wiring harness..something to do with the new TT model...Maybe he will invite me up and put one on my Uly.... | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I use Bag Balm for all my personal chafing needs. | ||
| Crusty |
I prefer Gold Bond medicated powder. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Buellinabq, the hoses WILL push down through the baseplate grommets, DON'T try disconnecting them from the engine as per the SM. Try a little Armor All or similar where they meet the grommets. When reinstalling, use the same stuff or silicone dielectric grease to slip them back up through the grommets. The hoses were the absolute least of my problems when I changed my plugs recently. | ||
| Bienhoabob |
("Buellinabq, the hoses WILL push down") I found it a 1000 times easier to PULL the hoses from the bottom. If you push from the top the hose flattens out around the hole, making the process more difficult. Also there seems to be a lot of pain associated with rounding screw heads. After rounding three heads trying remove a derby cover, I took my old bike to a local bike shop. After eating some humble pie, I watched the mechanic remove the screws. He put a wrench or Channel lock pliers around the end of the driver and removed the screws. You can assert more pressure with the left hand and turn the pliers like a ratchet. I've used this technique since, and have not rounded a screw head in the last four years. | ||
| Chadhargis |
That's exactly what I did. Still stripped two of the screws. One so badly it had to be drilled. The other I cut a slot in with my dremel and use a flathead screwdriver to get it out. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Mines apart right now to install a hid. Same deal on my (pure stock) 05 9sx. The wire to the rear O2 sensor was rubbing on the rear head. I put some split loom cable armor on it, don't know if it will take the temps or not, I'll know after the next long ride  | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Yesterday was the first long ride on the new Iridium plugs and Magnecor wires..there is a definite increase in smoothness of the motor and it did not have the buck and jump when cold..who would've thunk it? | ||
| Bienhoabob |
I put the Magnecor wires and a new set of HD plugs. The bike picked up about 150-200 rpms at idle. Had to adjust the idle down to 1050, and much smoother also. Magnecor wires = Get Some, Get Some.  | ||
| Slowride |
I just contacted Magnecor to order a set of wires for the Uly. Is it just me or does anyones else find it absolutely OUTSTANDING that you can actually talk to the manufacturer and order direct from them. I had an older lady answer the phone and excuse herself from the shop floor. She apologized for the noise and proceeded to tell me the guy that normally takes the orders is on vacation. She asked what I needed and I replied with the "2557's". She said O' yeah the Buell wires! Yeah, we can get those assembled and shipped out to ya today". I am absolutely amazed  Good Show Magnecor!!!! Good Show! |
