| Author | Message | ||
     Sbaugz |
The shop manual says to use HD6R12 plugs so the champion equivalent would be the ones I referenced above. Should I disregard the shop manual and go with the HD10R12A ? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Make sure you get the correct heat range. I never experimented and just got the H-D branded ones. Easier than thinking and making decisions  | ||
| Odd |
just a thought and more work,now would be a good time to put in that bronze worm gear sense the rocker box's are off if you have not done it yet | ||
| 1313 |
Did somebody mention HD10R12- spark plugs? In all honesty, they didn't work so well in my T-Stormed S2, but I usually trust the factory... | ||
| Sbaugz |
I am ok with going to the HD dealer and paying for genuine plugs. I have no problem with that. Can someone clarify which ones to use? The manual says 6R12 but I have seen several people recommend the VROD 10R12A. Which one should I go with? The plugs that are currently in the bike are 6R12 so I suppose I should stick with those? Odd- not a bad idea to replace the oil pump gear but I just want to drive this damn thing! Its only got 3200 miles on it, so I will probably wait for that. Might look over manual tonight to see how involved it is to replace oil pump gear. Anyone know of a link here that walks you thru it? I did a search and didn't find one. | ||
| Odd |
pretty simple with the rockerboxes off but there is a way to do it with them on but you would need some special tools | ||
| Hootowl |
Read the link posted by 1313. It'll answer your plug question definitively. | ||
| Sbaugz |
well there you go. I guess I will get the 10R12 plugs. | ||
| Sbaugz |
found an article on the twin motorcycles site explaining how to change the oil pump gear. Do I really need to drill out and remove the timing cover plate?  | ||
| Moparmania |
With all those hex bolts around the cover plate it sounds like it wouldnt make sense to drill out the chrome portion if thats what your meaning.... this is my first bike and first buell in one shot but id imagine that whole plate should come off in one piece giving you access to what your wanting | ||
| Sbaugz |
i thought the same thing, but if you follow the instructions on Twin site, it says to drill those out to gain access to the timing plate. Not sure why you would even need to do this? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
The bolt that connects the timing cup to one of the gears has to be removed or else you pull out that gear. And later with putting it back together it makes things a lot easier with getting all gears lining up. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Yep, you drill those out. Unscrew the inner timing cover, and unbolt the timing cup. Takes all of 5 mins. Send me your email and I can send you Jolly's step by step tutorial on all this in PDF. Yes, they changed to 10R12's in all buells a long time ago. Better heat range from what I gather. | ||
| Sbaugz |
awesome. thanks. PM sent. | ||
| Akbuell |
When I did my X-1, after drilling the rivet heads off and doing the rest of the oil pump gear installation, it was time to put stuff back together. The inner cover is fairly thick. Turns out a 10-32 tap fits the rivet holes. After threading, I got some stainless 10-32 socket head screws and cut them to length. Kinda makes it look normal, as they go with the rest of the fasteners holding the gear cover on. I was very gentle, as you only get about 1 1/2 threads, but more than enough to hold the decorative cover on. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Sbaugz |
great advice everyone. In typical Steve fashion, I feel like nothing goes easy. I drilled out timing cover, removed the cam gear cover. As I was slowly pulling it out, all the cam gears came out with the cover. Crap!. fortunately none of them got mixed up. They are in the general position where they should go. Now what do I do to get these where they should properly go? Maybe I am being overly dramatic, but what a cluster. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Now you think it's difficult and a lot of work ,but when it's back together and everything is going fine and did ride it a couple of times you think to yourself ,I did good and it wasn't that bad working on this great bike! I say a buell is a lot more fun and good times working on then any regular jap bike! | ||
| Sbaugz |
I agree you are correct. Just think of all the money I saved! Do you have any tips on getting these cam gears lined up properly? | ||
| Odd |
put in #1 then #3 then 2 then #4 make sure the dots line up. If you want give me a call 262-565-3855 your not very far away and I could show you good luck .odd | ||
| Sbaugz |
thanks odd. Will keep that in mind if I run into trouble. All my parts will hopefully come in within a couple days so I can wrap this up next weekend. | ||
| Akbuell |
Now that all of the cam gears are on the bench . . . . I avoided that issue by deciding from the get go to just pull them all. Saved me from finding the garage gremlins had pulled one out and trying to figure out which tooth meshed where. Anyway, put the crank at TDC per the view window at the base of the cyl V and install the cams. Line up the timing marks from crank to cam to cam. The service manual is very helpful. One other mention - When I got mine back together and started it, the engine sounded so bad I immediately shut it down. Thought I had assembled something improperly. Decided all was correct, and that one or more of the lifters had 'bled down'. A gentle, sub 2k RPM lap around the block and all was well. Hope this helps, Dave (Message edited by Akbuell on August 05, 2017) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Do you still have the link to the article from Twin Motorcycles? I'd be interested to give that a read through. I know exactly how you feel with jobs like these. My bike needed a ton of stuff done to it when I got it, but all I wanted to do was ride it. I've still got a handful of things that need done but you've gotta wait till you know you're not going to be riding, and hope your life cooperates with giving you enough free time to work on it. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I just read through the service bulletin that was posted, and hadn't previously realized that the change from 6R12 to 10R12 was only for the newer bikes with the spark-skip feature built into the ECM, meaning for my 97, I should still be using the 6R12, not the 10R12 like I thought. Luckily it looks like the DCPR8E from NGK is on the cross reference chart as a replacement for either. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Read the bulletin again. It says use 10R12 in "every model year Buell from (the bulletins issue time) forward". | ||
| Hootowl |
Not sure what bulletin you're reading...the one linked above states: "DEALER ACTION NOTE Use only 10R12 spark plugs as replacement spark plugs for all model year Buell motorcycles. The 6R12 spark plugs could not be superceded because they are still used on Harley-Davidson Sportster models. Inform customers to use the new 10R12 spark plugs when replacing spark plugs on their Buell motorcycles and not to use the 6R12 plugs specified in the owner’s and service manuals. This change applies to all model year Buell motorcycles." | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
+1 ^ you go hootie, I recalled reading that somewhere. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
haha my mistake.... it's Monday and it was early! I had just gotten to work so I wasskimming through it and saw the Explainatoin of New Features where it said about new models having the engine temp sensor and new ignition module that's able to sense overheating, and thought it was saying the engines could use the hotter plugs without the risk. | ||
| Sbaugz |
upthemaiden: here is the link to the Twin site with instructions on how to check and change the oil pump gear https://twinmotorcycles.wordpress.com/2015/01/14/h ow-to-check-oil-pump-drive-gear-for-xbtubeblast-14 -12-2014-here-is-a-little-guide-on-how-to-check-yo ur-oil-pump-drive-gear-on-a-buell-xb-03-07-and-all -tube-frame-buell-models-and-all-buell-bla/ | ||
| Sbaugz |
got all my parts and attempted to remove pinion gear nut. I installed the Jim's pinion gear locking plate and it didn't really seem to latch on to the pinion gear very well. I should have stopped there, but instead I tried to remove the nut and the locking plate slipped and lost a couple teeth. Damnit! Wasted $45 in about 5 seconds. Turns out I ordered Jim's 1665 for the later model buells and I should have ordered 1666 for the 91-99 buells. I really don't want to wait another week to order another one (nor do I want to spend another $45 on one). Are there any other tricks for removing the pinion gear nut without purchasing a $45 pinion gear locking plate? Is there someone around milwaukee/ waukesha area who has one that I can borrow for an hour or two? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Steve B aka Sbaugzz: I don't have the tool you need. Sorry. |
