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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through April 04, 2016 » Need help with X1 been waiting for a track day for this Sunday. Now X1 caput! I think Fuel pump is dead. « Previous Next »

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X1bully
Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi first post I have a 2000 buell x1. IT has been a great bike I joined to ask about suspension settings but now this is my main concern at the moment. Was going to do a track day this Sunday but looks like I won't be able to make it on this bike. Need help fast! Would be nice if I could still make it on the x1.

Two days ago I was riding the X1. I have the race exhaust. There is a ground wire that attaches from one of the lower fairing bolts to the exhaust via a clasp.
The Clasp lost a bolt due to it being removed and threads chased (Without loctite,sigh). So the ground was not attached to the exhaust canister while sitting in my garage.


I did notice the pump or vibration near the tank at night thought it was weird but didn't think anything of it. MAN should have disconnected the battery..

So today I try to start it. At first I was thinking of the battery. Logically I'm thinking it's the fuel pump doesn't make that sound when the key is turned. At first turned the key on, engine check light turned on for a second then went off (now no engine check light at all). Start button does nothing.
had a AAA guy try to jump start it but nothing. Check light didn't light. Start button didn't do anything. He didn't have a voltage reader either. Didn't seem to know what he was doing. lol!


I'm pretty sure I won't be able to fix it in two days will try if I can get some help. I can take another bike but won't be as fun.

The basics, I see the pump at the end of the tank. It has a wire to the rear cylinder head (I guess this is the ground for the fuel pump).

The fuel pump removal looks fairly straight forward, unbolt from underneath. Reach in tank and pull out. Also am I correct that the exhaust ground is the issue that kept my fuel pump running?
Anything else I should look for?

Is the fuel pump something I can get at the local auto store?

I found Walbro v6 mustang fuel pump. Anyone have a part number? Just ask for a 2000 Mustang v6 fuel pump?
Will I have to "reflash the ecm"? I read reflashing ecm a lot for this bike but not sure what it is for. I could use the reader about now. lol!

I was thinking the wire (exhaust ground) and bracket was just a brace and just in case to keep it from scraping the floor if it broke that is why I didn't act so quickly will have to find out about it.

Checked all my fuses at the tail. 2 20amp and 5 15amp lookin good. Any other places for amps?
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X1bully
Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Try a fully charged battery and then start looking at the kickstand switch, neutral safety switch and so on."

Don't know if my battery has enough voltage but..

Weird thing happened after reading this I tried holding the clutch in and shifting up the gears.

AND the engine light lit up!! I heard the fuel pump!!!!

Then the engine light went out...
I did it a few times. Looks like the fuel pump and engine light will turn on in fourth or fifth gear the go out after a second or two.


Whoot hopefully this means I don't need a fuel pump because it looks like a work!!
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X1bully
Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2016 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK with the kick stand up it seems to be working normally. Engine check light and I can hear the fuel pump prime. With the kick stand down, engine check light does not come on no fuel pump prime.

Ignition start button doesn't do anything though.
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Screamer
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 02:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The cable on the exhaust functions as a retention feature if the muffler inlet tube fractures - has no grounding function.
Symptoms sound like the stater interlock system. Is the neutral indicator light illuminated (when in neutral)?
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X1bully
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes the N is illuminated when in neutral.
What is the stater interlock system? Where is it located? Thanks for confirming what the cable on the exhaust was for.
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X1bully
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe I need a new starter diode? I pulled and put it back in the fuse box when I was changing out the fuses. I thought it was just a placement holder. Still need to get the battery checked today.
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Damnut
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure you put the diode in the correct way or it will not work.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My advice is to first, step away from the bike, take some deep breaths, put down the chalupa, ect, ect . . .

Most important, if you don't already have one, get a service manual. Buell's really are different.

I am sure Screamer meant the Starter, not stater, interlock system. And it is a system, located in various places. In short, to prevent starting the bike while in gear or riding off with the sidestand down, the interlock. To condense, if the bike is in neutral, the ign system is grounded through the neutral switch (light). If in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, the system grounds through the clutch switch. If in gear and the clutch is out, the system grounds through the sidestand switch, IF the sidestand is UP.

One of Al at American Sport Bike cardinal rules is 'Check your grounds' concerning Buell electrical stuff.

So I would start at the beginning. A good, fully charged battery. Both battery cables are tight and clean. The ign switch is working properly. And so on.

The diodes can be checked with a multimeter. And should be installed so the arrow points down, i.e. towards the relays.

Hope this helps, Dave
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X1bully
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok good news.. But still something odd..

After going through the gears a bit in the garage with clutch in here is what I've found.

While in N, with kick stand down eng light doesn't come on. Will turn on if clutch is pulled then pump is primed.

With kick stand up, N, engine light lights up primes pump. But ingnition button doesn't start.

So with the kick stand up, in N, clutch in. I can start the bike and it was running fine. Once I put the kick stand down while in N it shuts off the bike.

Also the first couple cranks a big puff of black smoke came out of the airfilter I think, probably from all the times I turned the key to prime the pump I guess.. lol!!!

Will have to take it around the block but I think I can still make it to the track on this bike Sunday.
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S1owner
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bypass the kickstand switch by running a wire jumper then see what happens these switches are notorious for causing gremlins.
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Akbuell
Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent!! Good to hear progress.

As S1 says, bypass the sidestand switch. Should resolve the issue.

An aside: Does the neutral light come on? You may have a loose wire to the neutral switch, or the neutral switch itself is bad or going bad. The engine should start and run while in neutral, regardless of the position of the clutch or sidestand switch.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2016 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like your battery's main ground cable is not making full contact with the frame. Have you taken it off and filed it shiny?
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X1bully
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 07:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ran it around the block. No problems running. I think it's the kick stand switch. N light works in neutral.
I'll look for how to bypass it on Monday. Taking off to the track now.
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Ducxl
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've had this issue a couple times/w my '99 X1.It definitely sounds like the "starter safety interlock" system as Damnut pointed out earlier.If i were you i would look at the little switch underneath the CLUTCH LEVER.I've broken two so far.IT prevents startup under circumstances where an operator might try to engage the starter when the bike is in gear.Think uncontrolled take off.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bah! I really need to review previous posts before posing questions. Thanks much for re-confirming the neutral light is coming on.

Most folks here bypass the sidestand switch by cutting the wires near the switch and twisting the wires together, then tape.

A good preventive maintainance step at this time would be to replace the ignition relay.

Hope this helps, Dave
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X1bully
Posted on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 12:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks to everyone here I made it to the track.
Rode about 260 miles total, now I know what it's like to ride from LA to Vegas. lol!
I will look into the clutch switch after bypassing the kickstand switch. Also replacing the ignition relay.
I also want to quiet it down so I can ride it more often got the bike with factory race system. Thinking about getting a supertrapp canister to bolt onto the race header.



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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good to hear you had a fun day!
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Charger22
Posted on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 06:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great job
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