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Archive through October 09, 2013Bluebueller30 10-09-13  12:40 am
         

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46champ
Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2013 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You DO NOT need to pull the engine to change the cylinder base gaskets. I did this job 3 years ago. Put the bike on a stand so it is vertical put a bottle jack sissor jack or small floor jack what ever you have under the forward shock mount. Take the pressure off the upper motor mount dissemble the upper end. Yes the old paper gaskets are a bitch to remove there is no easy way when you are done you will know what the sharpest gasket scrapper is in town because you will have bought it.
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Bluebueller
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 12:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks 46 champ, my main concern was clearance between the frame tubes - but I suppose onece the top end is off, there is plenty of room to work.

do I need to do anything to the pistons before or after the gasket job? last compression check they were still pumping over 170, so I imagine the rings are still good
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46champ
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 01:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The clearance issue will be handled by removing the rear head first then the front head if you are going to do both cylinders. I would recomend changing the valve seals if the motor is using more than a quart of oil in say 1000 miles. Look at the back side of the valves for a build up of oily black carbon if it is there you need new seals.

As far as rings are concerned I usually always hone the cylinders and install new rings some people have good luck with using the old rings I don't do it that way because I was taught to change the rings when I pull the cylinder.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 08:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...or you can pull the circlip off the wrist pin, and leave the piston installed in the cylinder when you remove it.
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Mr_grumpy
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Like 46champ I was taught to hone cylinders & fit new rings & valve stem seals.

Well you've got it apart so why not.

I did mine in the frame a few years back, it's not that hard.

The other thing to consider, while it's all down, is a new set of lifters. Especially if the bike's got a few miles on it.

Also there's THE best update for any tuber, the upgraded oil-pump gear.
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Dave_02_1200
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like Rat's approach.

His way, the piston and rings remain in the cylinder so reassembly is easy.

You can measure skirt clearance with the pistons in place.
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Mr_grumpy
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 11:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you're sure that pistons & rings are good, you can do that.

If the motor's got some miles on it I'll at least pull the slugs while it's in bits just to check. You can't assess the state of the piston or the rings otherwise, though the state of the bore may give you some clues.
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