G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through April 26, 2013 » So, is my Stator bad? « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mikeyp
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Typical symptoms, bike wont crank over.

I have a fairly new battery that is 6 months old.

Here is the weird part.

I tested contunity from each port coming from the stator to ground, and it tested no contunity.

When i tested from port to port, it tested for contunity.

Ohms from port to port read .5 ohms.

Manual says that if i had a bad stator, it would read below .2 -.4 ohms.

So...since i tested from port to port, and got continuity, does that mean my stator is bad?

Im not below the .2 - .4 ohms, and thats where im getting confused.

Is the stator bad even though i measure .5 ohms, but have continuity between the two ports?



I have yet to check my voltage regulator, as it was too late to run my bike.

I plan on checking it tomorrow.

Tia
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

01x1buell
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

did you load test the battery, i had the same issue and the battery was only 6 months old as well.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do the running check for V.

Are you doing this per the manual? As in, manual on the bench next to the bike as you test?

The no-continuity-to-ground shows you don't have a short to ground (good thing).

The low-continuity-between-legs (what you call "ports") is normal - there is minor continuity between legs, or wraps, but it is limited. 0 ohms would be a dead short between legs - not good.

Resistance readings can be varied, and can have different results based on corrosion in the plug where you're sticking your probe, etc. Check running voltages. And if you want the easiest check...pull your clutch cover off and sniff. If your stator is bad...you'll smell it. Trust me.

Oh, and get one of these:
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16076.html
That way you'll know at a glance, as you're riding, whether you're charging properly. I have one on every bike.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mikeyp
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm going to bring the battery to Pep Boys and have them load test it later today when i get done with work.

I plan on doing the running Voltage test too.

And i am doing the testing as per the manual.

Thanks for the link for the volt meter. Not sure where i would mount it on my S1w though.

I'll fill you in with my progress.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Harleyelf
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can get it started, check AC voltage output between those stator leads. It should be 16 - 28 volts at idle, going up to 54 or so at 3000 rpm. If you have the AC current flow and still don't have 14 VDC at the battery leads, it is your regulator, not the stator.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Thejosh
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 Harleyelf, my $ is on the VR.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Harleyelf
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The output wire from the VR comes loose pretty often; be sure it is fully installed before you rush out and buy a new one.

You're an electrician; did you torque the battery terminals properly? Loose wires and cables are the cause of most charging issues.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Snowbees
Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2013 - 03:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

have you checked the starter solenoid contact ring for wear/pitting.

(Message edited by snowbees on April 09, 2013)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike, what the elf said...
Check the AC output of the stator at the regulator plug. This will tell you which half of the charging circuit is suspect.
Make sure you have a good ground on the regulator. There should be a star washer under the mounting bolt(s) to bite through the paint.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mikeyp
Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, so here is the latest.

The stator and voltage regulator tested out good.

Brought battery to be load tested, and they still have it at Batteries Plus.

Will find out tomorrow if its good or not.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can't begin to tell you how many bad(new) batteries we had that came from Batteries Plus.Several were less than a month old.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Harleyelf
Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bolt a known good car battery up with good battery cables, not jumpers. The excess capacity will not harm your bike. If it starts and shows 14.2 volts across the terminals while running, get a good battery from another shop.

I've had good results with Interstate.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bluzm2
Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have to agree with Cyclone Charlie. I've gotten 3 bad batteries from Batteries Plus..
Actually they were for a friends bike. Finally bit the bullet and went with a stock HD unit.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mikeyp
Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is where we stand.

Battery was load tested, and it's good.

I ran the bike again and took voltage readings from the stator, and they check out fine.

While bike was running (5 min max), the connection from the VR to the stator got stupid hot.

Im shut bike down, waited for it to cool, and disconnected it.

Any reason as to why the connector got so damn hot?

I checked all connections, and they are clean and tight.

Would a faulty VR make that happen?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Harleyelf
Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes. It could also be a short to ground in the output wire from the VR. Disconnect it and check resistance to ground. There might also be a problem with the fusebox.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Coxster
Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Guys I used to work for Case/New Holland in the electrical reman division. The best batteries I have ever ever seen ( based on tons of ABUSE ) is Exide. Had good luck with Interstates too, but the CNH brand batteries were re-labeled Exide so that's what we used the most of. The H-D forums say the OEM battery ( got 7 years out of my Dyna OEM battery ) are made in PA by East Penn Mfg. Lotsa solid info in the above posts too
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mikeyp
Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2013 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Found this and thought i would share.


http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_charge.html

Pretty sure my VR is shot. Ordering a new one today.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mikeyp
Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2013 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just wanted opinions.

Would you buy this voltage regulator?


http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-485

(Message edited by mikeyp on April 16, 2013)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Harleyelf
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2013 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That'll work fine as long as you have a two-pin connection from stator to regulator.

Looks like a good deal on the primary cover gasket, too.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jramsey
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2013 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Would you buy this voltage regulator?

It will work fine,but you have to change to a bullet type connector on the 12V output wire.
Put one my S3 last year.}
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mikeyp
Posted on Thursday, April 18, 2013 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the info guys. My Bike has the two pin connection from the ststor.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration