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Gmaan03
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I made my lock wrench, and socket. Tried to loosen the nut and it is TIGHT!!
Left hand thread. What size breaker bar did you guys need/use? I am using a 1/2 drive standard breaker bar. IS this nut that tight?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's that tight...AND it's probably slathered with loctite (if it was installed correctly).
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Gmaan03
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So its that tight then! Well I guess I will push a little harder. My lock tool works perfect.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The drive pulley is right hand thread! The clutch hub is reverse threaded. 200 foot-pounds should do it - that's a 18 inch breaker bar with your weight on it as it is horizontal.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 02:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crap! I thought I read in the manual it was a left hand thread..........
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Akbuell
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you are talking about the engine sprocket for the belt that runs from the engine to the rear wheel, it IS left-hand thread. So clockwise to loosen.

Initial torque (per my '01 X-1 manual) is 50 ft/lbs, then turn an additional 30-40deg. So not a huge torque, really.

Might do to apply a heat gun, to soften the Loctite ....

If the nut on the end of the crankshaft, that one is torqed in the 250ft/lb range.

(Message edited by Akbuell on December 01, 2012)
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Gmaan03
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 02:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is my wrench. It took me around 1 hour to make and it holds great! It is two pieces, the bolt holes are supressed from the view.


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Akbuell
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow, that is cool !!! Did you make two, perhaps ?? Hint,hint
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Gmaan03
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is the models with clamp holes.

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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is this the wheel drive or the primary drive sprocket? I thought you were talking about the engine output which drives the primary chain.

The final drive is lefty, as David has pointed out. Stand on the wrench and bounce lightly.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did stand on it, heated it up and jumped on it! I actually twisted off my breaker bar end!
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Mmcustoms
Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had to heat mine and use a 1/2 inch impact very carefully
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Eshardball
Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 06:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice tool. When is the 1st production run?
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V74
Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have been trying to get the final drive front pulley nut undone to swap the standard 29 tooth pulley (UK model) with a 27 tooth one and just can't move it, all I have managed so far is to slightly start rounding the nut, so for now have given up let me know how you get on getting it off.
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine came off with just a ratchet...with the nut retainer there's no reason to be that tight. It did have a retainer,yes? If not, somebody may have put some serious stuff on those threads. You may have to cut the nut off and hope the threads are still good on the shaft.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it is normally not that tight, you are possibly doing some thing wrong.

IIRC 50 ft lbs + 45 degrees to line up with the lock plate use red locktite ...
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Firemanjim
Posted on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Damn thing can be very tight, I use an air impact and a six sided socket 1 7/16 IIRC.Sometimes have to stuff wood through wheel to stop it from turning.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Finally got it loose. some heat and penetrating oil, broken breaker bar and a new breaker bar. It snapped loose.
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Kalali
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Normally it should not be that tight. Actually mine came loose once and the pulley was slowly backing out. I noticed it by a slight misalignment on how the belt rides on the rear pulley.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, if this is the front belt pulley we're discussing...there's a locking plate that holds it in place. Light torque spec, adjust to get locking plate attached, torque four locking plate screws (I always mark them with touchup paint so I can see if they're moving), and done.

Overtorquing is bad - that pulley is directly connected to fifth gear, and you don't want to misalign that because you overtorqued the nut on the outside.
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89rs1200
Posted on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OldDog is correct. Torque to 50 ft lbs, then 30 to 45 degrees more to line up with the lock plate, and use red locktite.
Will likely need an air impact hammer to do this. Don't ever leave it looser than that.
If the nut is too loose the pulley will rock back and forth on the shaft. The splines will become damaged.
If you hear a squeak when engine breaking, it is too loose and you are damaging the splines!
Also the lock plate is not enough to hold the nut, use red locktite.
Nut on my S3 wore right into the plate and continued to loosen. I am talking from experience here.

(Message edited by 89rs1200 on December 10, 2012)
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gmaan03

Do you have a drawing that you can share for that tool ?
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Gmaan03
Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

are you a machinist?
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Gmaan03
Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

here is a .stp file
text/plain
PULLY WRENCH.STP (77.0 k)
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Gmaan03
Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 05:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Only half of wrench, make two. one with tapped holes the other with clearance.
5/16 cap screws
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, December 14, 2012 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To answer you yes I used to do that for a living,

I was hoping for a drawing to make a layout from

Baker Drive has a copy of the KM tool for about 120$$

If you dont have it as a drawing next time I have the front off I'll try to do it my self - BTW great idea.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Friday, December 14, 2012 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will make up a print and post it here.
It worked super good and was very cheap to mfg.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Friday, December 14, 2012 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Attached is a .xps drawing open with Microsoft .xps viewer
application/vnd.ms-xpsdocument
print.xps (80.4 k)
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