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Roderick
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 04:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Need help...



I bought a Sifton kit to clean up the current breather set up. The two hoses for the current set up are visible. The Sifton kit basically have one hose connecting both cylinders. The front cylinder had a straight bolt and removed with no problem. The second cylinder have a problem, as indicated.

Any suggestions? Destroy it? Is there a current H/D part number for the straight bolt just in case I have to revert? I could not find it in the S1 parts manual.

Thnx for any response.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 06:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Roderick,

Sure seems like you should have a bit more clearance than that. I have to wonder if your rear isolators are bad, letting the engine sag a bit in the frame and reducing your clearance gap. Those bolts only scraped a bit when I took them out on my Y2K M2.

Can you stick a jack under the bike and perhaps position a wood block under the swingarm block to lift the engine skodge and see if it increases your clearance a bit?

If you want a hand or another opinion I'm off today and have tools and a garage. Or can swing by and take a look at it with you. Side note, welcome, and be sure to stop in to the Storm Fronts - Utah Buellers section and say howdy.

-Mike
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd just use a dremmel with a cutting wheel to cut the tube portion off, if it's just a matter of getting it out of there.

I'll check my M2 and X1 parts books and see if they've got the straight breather in there. I can even check availability since I need to go to the dealership today for a couple items anyway.
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Roderick
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Decision -- Destroy.

Took the hack saw to the bolt and cut just enough to barely clear the frame. Then installed the Sifton kit with no major issues. But now I wonder if I should have gotten another style.

The Sifton kit have the hose steel braided, more for aesthetics than real utility. I would rather see that than the old Y-shaped rubber hoses set up. I strapped the oil catch can under the seat by the license plate. Mostly out of view and on the left side. The hose is secured on the right lower frame and routed under the body panel. The Sifton hose is only 24 in long so I joined it with a length of regular rubber hose, which then connected to the can.

Unfortunately, the steel braid did came into contact with the exposed battery terminal by that routing. So I had to hunt for insulation. Could not find any electrical tape but found and installed a short length of black spiral tubing. Works just as well but will install split tubing later because the spiral cover still have gaps.

Perhaps the rear isolators are worn out because the bolt heads for them are way off center and they do look sagging.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the rear isolators were sagging, the frame would be lower, not the engine. The frame sits on top of the engine/tranny in the back, and the engine is hung from the frame in the front.

The isolator bolts should not be in the center of the frame opening. The isolators are angled up from the bolt plate to the part that slides into the frame. The bolts should appear to be toward the bottom of the opening. Remember that the frame sits on the mount, the mount is not hung from the frame, and when you sit on it, you are pushing the outside of the isolators down.
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Roderick
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In that case, the isolators are not sagging. I looked at both and each off center in the bottom/rearward position.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sigh... Sorry

Just another example of how I only need to throw some bs answer out there and there are others out here who know far better than I do.

My reasoning seemed to make sense in my head anyway. Perhaps I should avoid trying to answer questions at o'four hundred?

Thnks Hoot, Sorry Rod. Still gotta wonder about that alignment though. Other S1 guys out there that can check theirs?

Rod, should I still pursue that pn and availability for you?
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Roderick
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike,

Thnx but no need. I got the Sifton kit installed. Tonight is first of my work week so I will run down to the H/D dealership on Mond with the straight bolt and pick up a couple. I still would like to know the clearance issue, though.

Rod
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Jolly
Posted on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the same issue on my 98 s1W when I did the rocker box conversion to XB style and put the breather out the top of the box and changed the intake to the round one that al sells..(nice setup!)...scratched my melon for a bit then decided it must have been installed on the motor prior to being bolted into the frame, dremil tool fix.....wasnt planning on re-using, but it still stuck me as odd.....
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