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Elpanameno
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 10:15 am: |
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Yesterday, I removed the top of the head from my 2000 m2 cyclone because the studs that hold on the exhaust were stripped and frozen in the manifold. I noticed when I removed it, there was a large amount of crud that was on top of the pistons.. burnt crap. With that in mind, I have 2 questions: 1. Any suggestions on how to remove that stuff? I was just going to be real careful and use carb cleaner and a microfiber cloth. 2. Do I need to replace all the rubber/silicone gaskets as well as the paper ones? The service manual didn't specify and they are all in good shape (no cracks, etc) |
Jos51700
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 10:25 am: |
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A scraper will work fine on the carbon, just don't gouge the piston. It would be a waste of a microfiber cloth. The piston will be dirty again shortly. I always replace the rubber gaskets, because I always buy the gasket set, and hey, they're probably 8 years old if there are still paper gaskets in there. You're there, do you want to do it twice? The paper gaskets have been replaced with super-cool metal ones, the latest of which have pretty orange silicone on them. I recommend replacing all the rocker box gaskets, on both heads, while you're there. If the other cylinder isn't updated, and isn't leaking, it will be soon. |
Road_thing
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 10:36 am: |
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I second replacing the rubber gaskets. Every time I've tried to re-use them, they have stretched to where they don't really fit. When you buy the factory gasket kit, you get all new, so I just put 'em all in at once. rt |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 10:48 am: |
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Shawn,fairly normal for carbon and such to build up depending on miles on motor.If it looks like alot of burnt oily goo you need to worry about valves,seals,and rings being worn.And most will tell you that once you remove heads you need to replace base gaskets,so take a look at cylibers and rings,and think about doing a top-end while you have it all down. |
Tattoodnscrewd
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 12:37 pm: |
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Use a spray on gasket remover ... let it soak on the top and use a brush to scrub it off ... better than trying to scrape it and damaging the piston.... |
Jos51700
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 03:51 pm: |
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Have fun doing the base gaskets . If you can, find a shop with a cylinder-base lapping plate. It restore's squareness to the base gasket surface, thus increasing sealing. |
Jos51700
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 04:47 pm: |
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Don't forget, as the old joke goes: if it was a Harley, the dirt bag would be riding it. |
Elpanameno
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 07:07 pm: |
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ok.. thanks for your help but i took firemans advice to replace the bottom gasket while i was in there and it was good because my base gasket was non-existant on the bike. I had removed the back cylinder head and now i am trying to remove the back cylinder but a mount that connects to both heads in is getting in my way. I was trying to avoid having to lift the bike or remove the engine entirely. Anyone had any experience or know what i need to do to be able to do to get this cylinder off? Can I remove this mount from the front cylinder as well without needing any extra support? |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 07:55 pm: |
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Leave the front-most mount on the front head - on/off cycles can strip the threads in the head or chip the head. Ask me how I know, grrr. Put a jack under the engine (use the front shock mount) to support the engine. Remove the center-top (between the heads) mount from the heads, and pull the rear head and cylinder just like the front. MAKE SURE TO MARK FRONT AND BACK ON THE CYLINDERS. That way the same rings go in the same bores. Unless you have a lot of scoring on the bores, in which case it's time to bore it .005" over and get new pistons/rings. |
Elpanameno
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 01:06 pm: |
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bores look good to me. I guess I am looking at buying another m2 today. If i do that, I will probably overhaul this one completely to make it as maintenance free as possible for a while. Thanks for your help |
Nevrenuf
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 01:42 pm: |
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i was told that most of that is from running the choke to long on the bike. anymore i don't run it no longer than i have to, to get it going with the throttle. 10-15 seconds most of the time. i could be wrong but until proven otherwise i'll keep doing what i do. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 03:26 pm: |
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Nevrenuf...good policy on the choke. If your bike is jetted right you only need it on initial startup for a few seconds. |
Aesquire
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 06:06 pm: |
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Running a catch can/filter arrangement on the crankcase breathers helps. Proper jetting as Skntpig says, reduces need for the choke. |
Bigblock
| Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 11:01 pm: |
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I always replace rings when pulling the cylinders. Although you probably won't have any trouble with the rings reseating, why take the chance? |
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