| Author | Message | ||
     Manofdesign |
After a nice weekend roadtrip I sadly discovered that I have a broken header stud. Its flush with the head and is the outside rear one. I know there is a huge wealth of knowledge on the boards so any advice? We just started getting nice weather and I would like to rectify this situation as soon as possible. | ||
| 5liter |
See here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/288757.html?1183423048 | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
DONT DRILL IT OUT> JUST MESSED UP MY ENTIRE HEAD> GET IT DRILLED OUT BY A PRO!!! Most expensive slip of the wrist mistake of my life so far... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sorry to hear things are going badly DT... I rebuilt my tuber transmission with about 1/3 of the overall pain I endured with my broken header stud. There is a non option, and a couple options. 1) Easy Out... people claim that a really good easy out (like the snap on tool) should be able to get that stud out, but I don't know if any was ever successfull. I do know that a lot of people (me included) just snapped the easy out off in the broken head, makeing a bad problem really bad. 2) Hand drilling... this is much easier if you don't have a broken easy out in the way... left handed drill bits will help but are not necessary. The problem is lining things up. Its hard and you will probably do an imperfect job (I did) but even if you are off by half a stud width by the time you hit the bottom (I was) you can re-tap or heli coil it. Its a fairly high risk operation but it is doable in place. 3) Get the Jims tool. This (IMHO) is the right way to do it. It costs $70, but it just works. I don't know if it can get all of the four studs in place, but I know it can get some of them. I got lucky and was able to use method 2, but if it happens again, I will either get the Jims tool, or make my own similar jig. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh... and make sure you have the updated front exhaust mount... the old mount is generally the root of the stud consumption problem... | ||
| Oldog |
For those who don't understand why you need the jim's tool, or similar. The tool is nothing more than a drill guide, It has a hardened bushing to hold the drill bit in the right place and on the right angle, Last time I checked it was about 90$ figure that the top end gasket set is close to that price, its cheap. While the left hand drill bit is not essential, if it catches and unscrews the broken stud your ahead, this does not allways happen. DT the worst case for you is that you get a COMPETENT Tig man to drill out the stud hole for clean metal and weld the hole up. then drill it out and tap it, your other alternatives are to replace the head. OR A helicoil or similar insert. Jim Nance did that as have others. The big thing is with any work like this a. take your time b. If you are not sure about your skills consider having it done, c. remove and replace all of the other studs as they have been overstressed or will be. d. get the Y mount as Reepi explained above. e. the Only board member that has had a E-Z out work that I know of is Rocket, and I think that his experience was just good luck. I you decide to diy My suggestions a. Jim's tool b. Cobalt-Hs steel cuttig tools. c. Avoid the less expensive Ti-N tools as the coating must be supported well to hold up for most cheap drill bits that aint so, and you can't sharpen them. (Message edited by oldog on July 04, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
For those who may want to make their own guide, Drill bushings are available from Fastenall and McMaster Carr the stud is 1/4 X 20 or 5/16 X 18 On the motor end, Tap Drill sizes are #7 (0.201") for 1/4" NC 1/4" .250" for 5/16 NC I have considered using the header clamp as a template as it is drilled to the same spacing, you may be able to ream one of the holes out and fit a busing into it just a thought....... | ||
| Brentmiller |
We all concur (mostly those of us who had the exact same problem.) I can not stress enough: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT THE JIM'S GUIDE. Hell, I'll ship you mine to use. Just get a right angle drill adapter and a really good 1/4" cobalt bit and a tap to chase and clean up the threads after you successfully drill it out. I'm pretty lucky with this kind of stuff but I broke the exact stud. I then broke the first easy-out in there and they are nearly impossible to drill through so avoid that. After I got that out, I broke a tap in there as well. It could be a nightmare if you aren't careful. Message me and I'll loan you my jig. Good Luck, Brent | ||
| Oldog |
Cool Beans Brent, Good on you!  Brent Pleas post a pic of the 90deg adapter Thanks. (Message edited by oldog on July 04, 2007) | ||
| Brentmiller |
I can't post a pic, but here's what I used and it fit right in there and it's easier to put some weight behind the bit from that position: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=92187 Brent | ||
| Manofdesign |
Thanks for all the great advice. I just purchased the updated "Y" hanger, the drill guide, and (4) header studs. It sounds like that is the best way to go based on the collective experience from other people. I am sure I know where to borrow a 90 deg drill adapter too. I'll let you all know how it goes once everything arrives. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I was browsing a harbor freight mailer yesterday, and they have a compact right angle drill (the complete deal) for under $30. That'd be a handy tool to have laying in the garage... | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
Aside from jims tool this is how I would do it! Use a die grinder with a carbide round tree bit in the end. STAB the bit into the bolt center and or MAKE a center with the carbide bit. If you do not own a die grinder with an assortment of carbide bits in your tool box, you aint lived yet brother  . If you can do that then you cant fail when you whip out the drill. Start small and use alot of cutting fluid as you drill first a small hole and then the right size for extraction tool. After that I would consider using some heat around the area. If your really good and got a great center. Keep drilling larger staying away from the outside of the bolt. It should get close to falling out. This does require some patience and some experience though!!!!!! (Message edited by mmmi_grad on July 05, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
Aside from jims tool this is how I would do it! Use a die grinder with a carbide round tree bit in the end. STAB the bit into the bolt center and or MAKE a center with the carbide bit.  That is scarry to think about stabbing any thing with an air grinder and a carbide rotary file turning 20G}} Get and use the Jims tool, If you use it correctly, The Drill bit will be started in the correct place and tool will drill at the correct angle, you don't have to step drill up to near size and worry about hitting one or the other side of the threads. Using a die grinder to center for extraction requires extreme dextairity, I would not try it. I would flatten the top of the stud for drilling if it is above the surface of the hole. As suggested cutting oil is also good, If you can find the OLD environmentaly un friendly Rapid tap use that, wd 40 or spit will work. in a pinch. YMMV | ||
| Sloppy |
Whatever you do, DON'T use a hardened steel bit on that bolt. If it breaks (which they often do on an inexperienced user) it will take 4+ hours to get it out -- and it's not pretty. Jim's tool works well and DO USE THE LH DRILL BIT. Order it from McMaster if your local shop doesn't carry it. Once you drill out the bolt, use a scribe to pull out the shavings, then use a thread chaser or put in a timsert or helicoil (I prefer timserts). | ||
| Manofdesign |
Finally!!! After working on it all day and fighting murphy I used Jim's tool to drill out the stud, re-tapped it and installed the updated header mount. I fired it up and all is well. Thanks again for the help!! |
