| Author | Message | ||
     Dtmcnamara |
HEY GUYS I NEED SOME HELP Please look below and tell me whats wrong...    I started to drill the front bolt out but am having NO luck what so ever. I found these while at a auto parts store getting new bolts for the exhaust. I went out to check a nut size and noticed that 2 header bolts were just not there. PLEASE IF ANYONE IS FREE TONIGHT OR TOMORROW AND HAS SOME TOOLS AND SOME TIME HELP ME OUT. I have an easy-out but I cannot seem to get a drill in there to do anything. Oh by the way I live in the snellville/lawrenceville area. | ||
| Ratbuell |
You have the right idea...but sometimes they do fight back. Options from my point of view? 1. Pull the head, take to a machine shop, have them drill it out, buy a top end gasket set, etc. 2. Check your easy-outs for what drill size they work with. Buy an expensive bit made for hardened metal (if you see a SnapOn tool truck flag them down!) in the right size and use it. Remember - a $20 drill bit is only expensive until you look at the cost of option 1, LOL. Use lots of WD-40 and drill at a slow speed, keep spraying the bit to keep it cool, and drill it out enough to get the easyout to catch. Also, let the WD (I prefer a BG product called In-Force myself, I've pulled 28 year old shocks off a 72 Plymouth with that stuff!) soak into the stud threads overnight before you easyout it. Once you get everything done and reinstalled, remember it's only 7-9 ft-lb of torque on those nuts. I think. It's not much, but I'd have to check my book to make sure. Overtorqueing is what breaks 'em. Snug the header, hang the muffler, tighten the muffler to header clamp, tighten the bolts at the heads, then final tighten the muffler. So far so good for me in that order... Wish I was closer, but I hope this helps a bit. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The root of the problem is probably your front exhaust mount. Update that to the new part, and the problem should not happen again. You are in better shape then most, generally there is nothing left there to grip on. You have a decent amount still sticking out. Use the easy out as a last resort, more often then not, they break off and make the problem much worse then when you started. Drill that hole deep enough and you will relieve internal tension, and have a much better chance of being able to get that stud out with vice grips (or an easy out). Wise and experienced people claim really high qaulity easy outs work well... I have been burned so badly so often by cheap ones I am fairly cynical about them. Jims makes a jig that you can bolt on there that will line up a drill bit perfectly with the hole. $70 or so, but a bargin compared to other options. I broke an easy out off in mine, and burned up more the $70 worth of diamond tipped drill bits and time trying to get back to just a bolt in there. Protect the threads if you can, but if not a heli-coil will repair the threads just fine. When I finally got mine drilled out, I just retapped the hole (no heli-coil) and it held up fine. By the time the drill got to the base of that hole I was half in the old hole with the old bolt, and half into the aluminum head. Like I said, I retapped and it worked. Should have used a heli-coil probably. Take your time... hurrying it will lead to about 10 hours work... so if you have to spend 5 hours doing it slowly and methodically you are still way ahead. | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
i tried to heat the block up and use vise grips on the bolt thats 1/4 inch out, but with no luck. tomorrow i will make the 20-50$ purchase and get a GOOD bit and start the drilling again. i figured worst case I would have to drop the motor out, do all maintenance needed, replace all gaskets, get a cam, and some forged domed pistons....either way if the bolts come out i get to ride tomorrow, if they dont in a few weeks i will have them out with a HOSS on the road | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
also does anywhere sell a stainless kit for the buell? i dont want this to EVER happen again. THANKS | ||
| Blake |
Weld a nut onto it and unscrew it with a socket wrench. | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
You've got at least four broken studs. You're in deep sh!t! don't bother with an easy out. I'm a retired tool and diemaker with 26+ yr. experience. Easy outs usually break off and then make stud removal even more difficult. Also doing this operation by hand is not advised either. For best results heads should be removed so the can be clamped to an angle plate and drill in a drill press or mill. Later KK | ||
| Reepicheep |
The problem may have more to do with your front exhaust mount then with the strength of those studs. Did you update to the new part? | ||
| Oldog |
DTM: I have to add My voice to the others, either use the jims tool or pull the head. EZ outs are usualy bad juju. You can get a left hand drill bit, when it catches many times it will remove the stud, I have done this. Stainless steel studs will not solve the issue, when the mount failed it transfered the load to the studs and broke that one. remove it (the broken one)then replace all of them, If you think about it the studs undergo heat cycling at high enough temps to alter the metal over time ie they fatiegue(sp). They are heavy enough to with stand the vibes and clamping forces for quite a while but not the additional loads imposed by the exhaust hanging from them. I will change mine again in about 1 or 2 years. | ||
| Koz5150 |
THey make a tool for this it's called Jims Exhaust stud removal plate. http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=9C40 0E7C-AD80-4718-9C8F-F116A9FF574F&search=jims+exhau st&store=All&page=1 I have heard of many people having good luckwith this tool. | ||
| Cpres |
I would try the jims tool and check the front exhaust mount. I had a stud break and the stealer replaced the head under warranty and tried to kill me by reusing the same engine mounting hardware. I have a neighbor who has drilled and helicoiled on his sporty but he said it was very tough to do. Best of luck and sorry I don't have anything original to say. | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
...ok so the easy out broke off in the rear stud, I am going to take the dremel and try to slot it and use a screw driver, but I think I will be taking the motor out within the next week or two. I dont want to but it looks like it will be the only thing I can do. Does anyone know how much a new head is just in case I want to purchase a new one? THANKS | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
also what is this updated exhaust mount yall are talking about? I searched a little but found nothing. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Its an upside down Y shaped mount. It replaces the front exhaust hanger. I believe part numbers are in the knowledge vault. You don't have to pull the whole engine, just the heads. Though that's plenty. The easy out is pretty brittle metal, so slotting it probably wont let you back it out. I had to grind / chip / peck at it with punches and diamond tipped dremel bits to get it out. It took a lot of them, and a *really* long time. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Here, this should help... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B032-263579.pdf | ||
| Jlnance |
Header Studs For Dummies | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
   I GOT ONE OF THE BASTARDS OUT....ONLY 1 MORE LEFT. YEEEEEEHAAAAAW | ||
| Koz5150 |
I got half a bolt that looks like that... | ||
| Buellfighter |
Very cool. Patience!  | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
YEEEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAWWWWWWW O what a feeling to extract one of the basterds from a location like this with good results. |
