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Fasted
| Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 10:36 pm: |
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i am working on a 99M2. it has the S3T high handlebars for more upright seating. i have a tach & speedo setup in the factory plastic dash which i would like to install. due to the higher position of the clutch lever on the higher bars, the clutch cable fouls on the dash. has anyone else had this problem? did you make a custom panel to solve the space problem? if so, do you have pix or plans or instructions for the fix? |
Rock
| Posted on Sunday, January 15, 2006 - 08:07 am: |
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Here's something you can check that may help your dilemma--you can reroute the cable to NOT go around the frame neck...rather, route it so that it is on the clutch side of the neck which will give you more "slack" which may eliminate the problem. Good Luck. |
Jayvee
| Posted on Monday, February 06, 2006 - 06:42 pm: |
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Well, I also have this exact problem right now, I put Blast bars (same as S3T) on my Y2K M2 with factory tach kit, and now the clutch cable wants to go right into the middle of my speedometer. I didn't want to drill a hole in my billet dash, although I might. The cable was already on the clutch side of the steering stem. What I did, for right now, is rotate the flyscreen upward (forward), and routed the cable into a 90 degree bend, so that it goes over the speedo, at about the 10 oclock position. It's not a good arrangement, but lubed the cable good, and it should last a while, at least until I figure something else out. Took it for a test drive, it does work, no noticable drag. Looks like maybe an "ape-hanger bars" length clutch cable would give us some different options. I was looking at the Barnett web site, one can order custom cables built, I was thinking maybe order one with the 90 degree metal housing built in at the lever end. That might work. Or else, the American Sport Bike hydraulic clutch. (As soon as he gets one in black.) Again, looks like a 90 degree fitting coming out of the Megura reservoir, would be the best. Anybody got an "easier way" ? (Message edited by jayvee on February 06, 2006) (Message edited by jayvee on February 06, 2006) |
Fasted
| Posted on Monday, February 06, 2006 - 09:19 pm: |
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saturday i took the s3t bars back to my friendly dealer. the helpful parts guy got into the harley catalog. we measured the s3t high bars. the problem with the high bars is the rather upright "u" shape. the stock bars are less "u", and more "v", so we found some bars with similar rise and backsweep with a wider base. hopefully they will be here within a week or so. i'll let you know if my solution works. |
Jayvee
| Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 01:29 pm: |
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Fasted, those are 7/8" bars, right? Did you get the part # ? |
Fasted
| Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 10:40 pm: |
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yes, they are...... no, i didn't......... but if it works, i'll tell you !! |
Jayvee
| Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 01:08 pm: |
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Well I tried a different clutch cable routing, that seems a little better, I send it down in between the frame tubes, just in front of the gas tank. There is just barely enough room, it was hard to even see. So the cable doesn't go over the dash anymore. It's just a little smoother bend, and doesn't bang on the dash anymore. |
Fasted
| Posted on Wednesday, March 01, 2006 - 07:34 pm: |
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i solved my problem by cutting a channel in the side of my plastic dash and bending the metal cable guide at the clutch lever. thanks for the ideas, guys.....e |
Jayvee
| Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 02:14 pm: |
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Yeah, I got a billet two-gauge dash, so I didn't want to cut on it. Actually, I went ahead and ordered a Barnett High-Efficiency clutch cable with a 3 inch longer length. (Bars are about 2.5" taller) These are surprisingly cheap, less than a HD cable. It should be here any day, I'll let you know if it improves anything. |
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