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1324
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...well, maybe identified. But I will get around to fixing it this winter.




05 XB12, 16.5k miles, breather rerouted since I bought it last year at 8k. Started using about 1 qt/1k miles this summer...

Time for new valve seals. After talking to NRHS, this is fairly common after 3-4 years, especially if the bike sat for a while (mine did - bought it as a repo). Fortunately, the repair is cheap and doesn't require machine work. Looks like I know what I'll be doing this winter when I rotate the engine to fix that dent in my header.

Also makes me wonder if my air filter is seating properly....I might add some grease to the top and bottom seals to add an extra layer of protection. Using the stock paper filter, btw.

If you're using oil, take a look in your intake!
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Livers
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That certainly is one nasty looking intake tract. I hope the seals do it for you. Sucks to tear down with that mileage. Since the heads are coming off, I'd do a compression and leakdown test before doing so. It's only a few more gaskets and hours to correct any future problems now. But hey that's just me.
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1324
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh absolutely...compression and leakdown are a must before I do anything.

Bought the seals from HD today. In stock, $11 for all four. I guess there are some positives to having a HD lump in there. Parts will be available...
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Ducbsa
Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 05:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you ask for Buell seals or Sporty seals?

Is there a list of cross references between the two part numbering systems for identical parts? While the sponsors are great (Thanks American Sport Bike and Bumpus), sometimes it would be handy to go to the local HD dealer and get parts that you could use right now and get back on the road.
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1324
Posted on Sunday, November 07, 2010 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I gave my bike information - 2005 XB12 - and they gave me the parts they did. So, either the Buell parts list contains the HD part number, or the computer system cross-referenced them.

Either way, the part number I have in front of me: 18094-02A, Valve Seal Kit. Branded "Genuine Harley-Davidson Motor Parts"; no mention of Buell on the package. Includes all four seals for less than $11 after PA state sales tax.
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No_rice
Posted on Sunday, November 07, 2010 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After talking to NRHS, this is fairly common after 3-4 years, especially if the bike sat for a while (mine did - bought it as a repo).

huh... thats a new one. every xb i have/had has atleast double if not quadruple that amount of mileage and not a one of them has eaten oil.

and one of them i built from boxes after it sat in a guys garage that way for a couple years(motor was still in one piece)

not saying you dont have a problem, just saying it is a common problem is a new one to me... and to think my xb's are 8 years old!

how the time flies
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1324
Posted on Sunday, November 07, 2010 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Possibly. My other XB never did this either, and it had about the same mileage when it was totaled. However, the parts guy at the local dealer said these are commonly replaced items on Sporty's. We'll see how this goes.
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Sslowmo
Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

mine has eaten oil from day one. One track day I can use as much as 8oz. The bike now has 50,000 miles.
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Vospertw
Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used 3 qts in the last 2500 miles (bike has 4400 miles). Talked to my local Buell tech and he asked a bunch of questions about riding habits, etc. Said 1 qt per 1000 miles is not out of the ordinary if you are running the bike hard (i.e. aggressive riding vs. commuting). I haven't noticed any loss of power, etc. so I guess I'll keep an eye on it and not worry too much.

Just a little surprising since I was getting about the same consumption on a 2008 KLR650 which turned out to have a warped cylinder liner. My 11 yr old GS would get 3500 miles per quart (with 63,000 miles) and my 06 DR650 was getting 18,000 miles per quart (after 20,000 miles). Funny thing with the DR - I did all the things the Internet says NOT to do - followed the book guidelines for break in and used full synthetic from mile one. Best engine for oil consumption I've ever had.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 02:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Vospertw... Mine did that when I ran 5w50 oil. Running a true 20w50 full synthetic stopped excessive consumption (no matter how hard I rode it).
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Vospertw
Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reep, I'm running a 15W50 CI-4 blend right now. I ran a 20W50 syn (Mobil 1 Vtwin) for about 800 miles after the 1K service but when I noticed I'd added about 500 ml already, I thought maybe I'd switched too early (to synthetic) and went to the blend. However, I've been wondering if I should go back at the 5K mile service to see if it helps.
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Dfishman
Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you adding to the top X on the dipstick?
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Vospertw
Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dfish - no. I only add oil if it's in the "Add Oil" end of the stick and no more than 200ml at a time. Usually ends up a couple of X's above "Fill".
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Old myths die hard.
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Vospertw
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake - I only mean this to be funny so don't take offense... but that post reminds me of the messages my ex used to leave! Never gave me any information and I always had to call her back... I suppose that was the goal. No fun griping to an answering machine.

Anyway, for folks like me who haven't been around here as long, to which myths are you referring? I'd appreciate the info. Thanks!
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Crackhead
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

could you replace the seals using the air compressor trick to keep the valves in place?
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1324
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 03:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't see why not. However, I'm pulling the heads just to inspect the combustion chambers.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

could you replace the seals using the air compressor trick to keep the valves in place?

You can also do it by stuffing a length of (clean) rope in through the spark plug hole, and then turning the crank so that piston is near TDC. Works great.
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 12:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry Vosper,

Needing to break-in with conventional before switching to synthetic = myth.
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Vospertw
Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake - no worries. As I mentioned, I broke in my DR on full synthetic from mile one - best motor I've ever had. However, second-guessed myself because I'm unfamiliar with these motors, DR has a Nikasil liner which this bike doesn't... etc. Thanks for the clarification in any case - I wasn't sure if you were referring to that, or to not filling to the top of the dipstick, or something else I missed.
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