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Message |
07bamafan
| Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 11:24 pm: |
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This evening I was changing my primary / tranny fluid in my 2007 XB9SX. When I drained the old fluid it came out looking like frappuccino. When I opened my clutch inspection cover to replace the fluid, I discovered a grayish brown creamy gellatinous substance coating the inside clutch inspection cover, and some on the inside around the clutch. The substance was practically odorless, with only a slight scent of plastic. This does not seem normal to me and I am concerned something is wrong somewhere. I last replaced my primary / tranny fluid at 1,000 miles (currently 10,000) with Amsoil 20W50 synthetic. Is this normal? Should I be concerned, or just clean off the substance and replace the fluid. The transmission has been running great with no signs of any problems at all.
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Buelltroll
| Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 11:30 pm: |
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Water. |
Old_man
| Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 11:42 pm: |
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Yes, water. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 11:55 pm: |
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More importantly...normal. Longer rides will cook it out...shorter rides will allow it to accumulate as the trans/primary heats and cools through the vent hose. That process condenses water, which makes your "primary phlegm". |
07bamafan
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 01:06 am: |
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That's what I was thinking, after searching and reading some similar problems. I go to Alabama, so I use the Buell to get to my classes everyday. Time to go on longer rides more frequently. Thanks for the quick responses. I'll clean it out and fill er back up tomorrow. |
Luxor
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 01:33 am: |
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I had the same issue with my '03 9s and am now replacing the clutch frictions. When my bike would get up to operating temp the plates were expanding causing the clutch to act engaged and I couldn't shift. When the clutch/bike was cold it operated normally. My frictions were water contaminated. Just a heads up. |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 02:54 am: |
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Ted May have to consider changing the primary more often. Joe |
Buelltroll
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 02:56 am: |
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That gasket right there is one of many places water gets in if you wash your bike alot. And dont use poressure washers on the engine. (Message edited by buelltroll on March 29, 2008) |
Pwnzor
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 10:06 am: |
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Definitely water, though I've never seen it to that excessive degree. I'd pull out the primary drive and clutch, clean everything completely and reassemble. If you go this route, don't forget to soak the clutch parts in clean oil (Formula +) before reassembly. If that white stuff is inside the inspection cover, it's got to be all over everything inside as well. Check the boot over the clutch cable adjuster, water gets in there and travels down the cable into the primary. |
Plat950
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 12:20 pm: |
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I found some of that on the oil dip stick when I chexked the oil is it normal I also only ride my xb12s mostly to work and home that is only 3 miles each way |
Johnnylunchbox
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 01:22 pm: |
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A couple of zipties on the clutch cable adjuster boot, can help prevent water from entering the primary. I've heard some people even pack grease in the boot, then ziptie it. |
Saintly
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 01:22 pm: |
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Check the boot over the clutch cable adjuster, water gets in there and travels down the cable into the primary. There's your water source for sure. Clutch cable boot caused the demise of my clutch plates from water contamination. Listen to Pwnzor!!! (Message edited by saintly on March 29, 2008) |
Pwnzor
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 05:46 pm: |
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I found some of that on the oil dip stick when I chexked the oil is it normal I also only ride my xb12s mostly to work and home that is only 3 miles each way Water in your oil is partially caused by not getting your bike up to full operating temperature. Let it warm up for five minutes before you ride, and take the long way. |
Old_man
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 06:36 pm: |
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I use electrical tape to seal the cable where it enters the case. - The probable point of water entry. |
Jos51700
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 07:47 pm: |
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Transmission Vent, anyone? I'd go for a good long ride (25+ miles), and then change the oil immediately. Then another long ride and an oil change. Scraping the spooge out isn't a bad idea, but it doesn't remove the water from where it counts, which is in all the bearings in the transmission. The flushn'fill procedure isn't perfect either, but will help with those nooks and crannies, and do the same as the scrapin'. I would double check the transmission vent (It should be looped up and over the upper shock area). One good swipe with a power washer there will put a lot of water in your tranny, too, although the short-trippin' is not helping. I've seen this more than once for guys that go to the car wash, and take the seat off to avoid a wet 'bum. |
Barker
| Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 08:55 pm: |
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Classic example of: "Primary Peanut Butter" No big whoop. |
Spatten1
| Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 12:08 am: |
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Check the boot over the clutch cable adjuster, water gets in there and travels down the cable into the primary. Caused an engine rebuild for me, all the tranny bearings were bad. Found it at the drive gear (front pulley), the shaft was loose, popped the seal off and it was full of rust. design. |
Pwnzor
| Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 10:14 am: |
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This is exactly why, when people tell me "you can change your primary fluid at every other oil change," (i.e. 10,000 miles) I tell them, "yeah, YOU can do that, I'll do it my way." The inside of my engine looks new after more than 40,000 miles. I just replaced my stator last week and took the clutch all apart. Friction plates, main and crankshafts, sprockets, primary chain, rotor, everything looks brand new, even the seals. I replaced those just for the hell of it. Syn3 / Formula Plus 4TW!!!! (Message edited by pwnzor on March 30, 2008) |
Jos51700
| Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 11:54 am: |
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"This is exactly why, when people tell me "you can change your primary fluid at every other oil change," (i.e. 10,000 miles) I tell them, "yeah, YOU can do that, I'll do it my way." The inside of my engine looks new after more than 40,000 miles. I just replaced my stator last week and took the clutch all apart. Friction plates, main and crankshafts, sprockets, primary chain, rotor, everything looks brand new, even the seals. I replaced those just for the hell of it. Syn3 / Formula Plus 4TW!!!! " I like this post |
Darthane
| Posted on Monday, March 31, 2008 - 03:31 pm: |
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"" This is exactly why, when people tell me "you can change your primary fluid at every other oil change," (i.e. 10,000 miles) I tell them, "yeah, YOU can do that, I'll do it my way." "" ^~~what he said, although mine gets changed every 2500 miles (lower service intervals on the '03s?). Cheap insurance, and I do an unfortunate amount of short (<15mi) distance riding. |
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