| Author | Message | ||
     T9r |
I had this problem with my XB9 and now that I got my XB12 the similar issue arose. I've heard others having similar problems recently. When starting the bike and letting it idle, it would die. After starting it again the engine would hover around 1100 rpm then drop down and die. This would happen repeatedly. The bike is a 2004 XB12R w/ 5000 miles on it. So I decided to check the timing. It seemed to be off. I retarded the spark and now it starts up and idles fine at warm up. It is not set exactly right but it is a lot better right now. So check your timing, can be done w/out a computer, if you are having the problem with the bike not idling right on warm up. OTHER things could cause the problem like leaking intake gaskets, worn spark plug wires or possibly sparkplugs needing to be gapped or replaced. | ||
| T9r |
HERE is information found on Badweb about Checking/Setting the static timing on the XB http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/78049.html?1096725661 There's been discussion lately about the ability to adjust static timing without the need to hook the bike up to the Digital Technician. It can be done, and it's really quite a simple process. Here's how to do it on an XB -- not sure how similar the other models are in terms of wire colors, etc. but the process should be the same. 1. Rear up on stand. 2. Remove seat. 3. Remove timing mark inspection plug. 4. Gently pry back the silicon rubber seal to gain access to the terminals of the gray connector on the ECM. You'll need to stab your DMM leads in from the back, and this makes it easier. 5. Set DMM to read DCV, 20V range. Insert black DMM probe into pin 7 (black wire with white tracer) and red DMM probe into pin 3 (if I recall correctly -- anyway, it's the green wire with the white tracer) 6. Sidestand up, key on, ignition switch on, transmission in 5th gear. You should hear fuel pump come on and then time out. 7. Looking through the timing mark inspecion hole, turn the rear wheel in a forward direction until the timing mark is visible at the left edge of the hole. You should see zero (or close to it) volts on the DMM. If you see +5V, then you're at TDC for the rear cylinder -- rotate the wheel until you see the mark again. 8. The meter should change from 0 to +5V just as the timing mark passes the center of the hole. As a bonus, the fuel pump comes on at the same instant, providing audible feedback as well. Turn the wheel slowly, and if you overshoot the mark, back it up until the mark is again at the left edge, and then go forward. Don't try to check/adjust it while turning the wheel backwards. 9. If the timing is advanced (transition occurs before center), nudge timing plate CCW. If the timing is retarded (transition occurs after the mark passes center), nudge the plate CW. If, as the other thread suggested, somebody wanted to connect an LED to monitor this transition, you could easily hook it up as follows: Connect a 330 ohm dropping resistor to the anode side of an LED. Hook the other end of the resistor to the green/white wire of the CMP sensor(pin 3, gray connector at the ECM). Hook the cathode of the LED to the black/white wire of the CMP sensor (pin 7, gray connector at the ECM). Using the above instructions, the LED would be off with the timing mark at the left edge of the hole with the front cylinder before TDC. It should then transition to ON just as the timing mark passes the center of the hole. Additionally, both techniques can be employed by making your connections at the CMP sensor connector. I chose to probe the ECM connector because there you don't need to remove any trim pieces or cut any wire ties to access the proper wires. |
