| Author | Message | ||
     2000m2 |
I have the manual, but it's tough to follow sometimes. I am getting the rest of the necessary tools tomorrow morning. Finally have a day off. Thanks again for all of your help! | ||
| Reepicheep |
I actually have one, but don't generally use it for that one big nut. I just take my 2ft breaker bar, and stand on it about 1 foot out. That ends up being about the 180 foot pounds it should be. Everything else gets torqed to spec properly though. If you just whacked that one on with an impact wrench, you would not be the first to do that either. | ||
| 2000m2 |
Haven't gotten the new one yet, but I got to mine. I have a picture, but it was too big to post on the site. Should get the new stator and regulator tomorrow. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Here is your picture Fred, it just needed a little jpeg optimization...  | ||
| 2000m2 |
thanks for posting that for me! | ||
| 2000m2 |
got everything back on and I was tightening the clutch cable back into the primary cover when the bolt snapped. I guess it was better that it broke in my driveway than on the road...so now I have a new clutch cable on the way...almost there! Once everything is back in place, should I do the same diagnostic checks? | ||
| Reepicheep |
fire it up, and see if the voltage to the battery goes up when the engine is running (versus when the engine is off). | ||
| 2000m2 |
She's running...well, sort of...got increasing AC volts coming out of the stator and high 12's across the battery. I think the battery may have gone bad though, cause she isn't holding enough charge to start back up. Had to jump it. | ||
| 2000m2 |
Got the new battery in it, fires right up...2 new issues: clutch cable seems to be waaayy too tight and it won't shift. these are probably related. It'll go down to 1st, but it won't come up. When I let out the clutch in first gear, it's like the clutch is still being held in (bike not moving). Grrr!! | ||
| 2000m2 |
appears as though the starter is now bad... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Bad cable connections, grounds, or flakey clutch or sidestand switches can mimic a bad starter. So can a flakey starter relay. | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
There's been discussion lately about the ability to adjust static timing without the need to hook the bike up to the Digital Technician. It can be done, and it's really quite a simple process. Here's how to do it on an XB -- not sure how similar the other models are in terms of wire colors, etc. but the process should be the same. 1. Rear up on stand. 2. Remove seat. 3. Remove timing mark inspection plug. 4. Gently pry back the silicon rubber seal to gain access to the terminals of the gray connector on the ECM. You'll need to stab your DMM leads in from the back, and this makes it easier. 5. Set DMM to read DCV, 20V range. Insert black DMM probe into pin 7 (black wire with white tracer) and red DMM probe into pin 3 (if I racall correctly -- anyway, it's the green wire with the white tracer) 6. Sidestand up, key on, ignition switch on, transmission in 5th gear. You should hear fuel pump come on and then time out. 7. Looking through the timing mark inspecion hole, turn the rear wheel in a forward direction until the timing mark is visible at the left edge of the hole. You should see zero (or close to it) volts on the DMM. If you see +5V, then you're at TDC for the rear cylinder -- rotate the wheel until you see the mark again. 8. The meter should change from 0 to +5V just as the timing mark passes the center of the hole. As a bonus, the fuel pump comes on at the same instant, providing audible feedback as well. Turn the wheel slowly, and if you overshoot the mark, back it up until the mark is again at the left edge, and then go forward. Don't try to check/adjust it while turning the wheel backwards. 9. If the timing is advanced (transition occurs before center), nudge timing plate CCW. If the timing is retarded (transition occurs after the mark passes center), nudge the plate CW. If, as the other thread suggested, somebody wanted to connect an LED to monitor this transition, you could easily hook it up as follows: Connect a 330 ohm dropping resistor to the anode side of an LED. Hook the other end of the resistor to the green/white wire of the CMP sensor(pin 3, gray connector at the ECM). Hook the cathode of the LED to the black/white wire of the CMP sensor (pin 7, gray connector at the ECM). Using the above instructions, the LED would be off with the timing mark at the left edge of the hole with the front cylinder before TDC. It should then transition to ON just as the timing mark passes the center of the hole. Additionally, both techniques can be employed by making your connections at the CMP sensor connector. I chose to probe the ECM connector because there you don't need to remove any trim pieces or cut any wire ties to access the proper wires. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Excellent Steve-O.. thanks! | ||
| Iamike |
M2- You may have the clutch adjusting screw a little too tight. According to the manual-turn it in all the way then back out 1/4 turn. If the clutch is tight then turn it out until the next flat is making up with the lock nut. Make sure your battery is fully charged before buying a new one. | ||
| Rusty_x1 |
I have an 00 x1 my race ecm (91437-99y)is bad the dealer said it is obsolete. Does any one know if there is a replacement? | ||
| Not_frn |
The only place I could find a race ecm for my 00 X1 was American Sport Bike. They are charging a premium for them however since they have the only ones left they can set the market. Notwithstanding, they are good people to deal with...When I got mine a few weeks ago there were only a few left. I hope they still have one..You better move fast.....by the way, I bought one from my local dealer and it was bad from day one. They couldn't get another so I felt lucky to find out that American Sport Bike had them. Good luck | ||
| Rusty_x1 |
What are Buell owners to do in the future?I won't be the last to have this problem.Well thanks for the info I'll call tomorrow. | ||
| Al_lighton |
We're down to two left. Yea, we charge a little more, but I have to PAY a little more. American Sport Bike, nor any non-HD-Buell affiliated dealer, has to buy such parts through a dealer, and we dont' get HD-Net pricing. And it isn't like I just had to push a button on a computer to order them, I had to scour the country for them, which took a lot of time. I originally bought a stash of them so that I could support Exhaust and intake sales (a key part of our biz) for tuber FI customers. Well, word got out, and most have been sold as just ECMs without the intakes or exhausts. Oh well, as long as we're supporting the Tuber Buell riders, it's all good. When they're gone, it's Power Commanders. They are also discontinued, but I'm hunting them down too and have a small stash assembled. And when they're gone, Carb Conversion kits will be offered. Al | ||
| Not_frn |
Thank God for Al!! | ||
| Bluelightning |
Al's my hero!!!!  | ||
| Al_lighton |
 (blush) We're here to serve, guys. And hopefully eek out a reasonably living in the process...we certainly aren't gonna get rich off of tube frame parts! Karl, Did you get my last mail? I'm in a holding pattern on the screen with ZeroG, awaiting your response on the windscreen specific model/color based on the ZeroG selections. Al | ||
| Bluelightning |
Al, Sorry about that. Lets get a price on the Zero G double bubble dark smoke (ZG p/n 16-702). Also, do you want me to send my seat along with the piece or just the piece by it self? (not sure if you had an X-1 seat handy for reference) | ||
| Bartimus |
wow, here it is, September all ready. I can't thank Blake enough for maintaining this most excellent message board. The info here is priceless. I am in the middle of replacing my stator, and the info from the June discussions helped me out, troubleshooting, and preparing myself with the proper tools. Thanks everyone! AL, I'm sorry you'll never get rich from selling tuber parts. You do serve a valuable service with the parts you do supply. There will ALWAYS be the hardcore few, (myself included) that will NEVER part with their tuber(s). I thank you for stocking the parts, when available, for the tubers. Who knows, in five years, that obscure part that's been sitting on the shelf for years, collecting dust, taking up space, may just be the part I need desperately, to keep my baby on the road. So rest assured, stocking tuber parts may not make you money today, but they will eventually.So thanks again for stocking what you can. I may get an XB when they are big enough for me to set my fat arse on, to add to my collection, but will forever keep and maintain my Beulltiful tubers  '95 S2 tripods forever! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hrrmph. Went to my new local Harley only dealer, we moved and I wanted to see what they stock (even though they are not a Buell dealer). The only plugs they had were the 6r12, no 10r12's. Don't the newest sporties (with the Buell engine  ) use the 10r12's yet? Geesh! And don't the numbers go "backwards", the bigger the number, the cooler the plug? The dealer was under the impression it went the other way. | ||
| Captainkirk |
Yeah, Reep; the 10R12's are colder.My Cyclone seems to run better with 'em, too. | ||
| Coopy |
Yesterday while riding my 01-X-1 started to misfire and the check engine light came on. When I pulled over it went out. It will start and rev up in neutral, no headlight cuts in and out. If you put it in gear as soon as you open the throttle the tach will cut in and out and the red light goes on and off, and if you put the kickstand up the lights come on a little brighter. Thanks for any help, Coopy | ||
| Bluelightning |
Well, I think you might yourself a short there. I'd check in the wiring harness and all of the cut out switches (side stand, clutch, etc). | ||
| 99x1 |
"It will start and rev up in neutral, no headlight cuts in and out." Pull the light fuse out (under the seat), this will eliminate the headlights circuit. Removing the Accessory fuse will kill the stop lights, turn signals, horn, and instruments. Could be the circuit breaker cycling in and out, or the ground wires vibrating - both are above the battery on the frame. Check the wires are tight on the circuit breaker. The key switch itself also can cause flaky problems. Could be battery also, try jumping from another battery. (Reminds me of: Guy walks into a bar and is refused entry for not wearing a tie. Returns from his car wearing booster cables as a necktie. Bartender says: OK, You can come in, but you better not start anything!) | ||
| Coopy |
Since it only happens in nuetral, is there a way to unplug the neutral switch? Coopy | ||
| 99x1 |
Sorry, missed the only happens in neutral part. As per the attached diagram, the neutral switch "or" the clutch switch "or" the sidestand switch must be closed to keep the ignition relay in. (the diodes are so the Neutral indicator doesn't light when the other switches are closed). So... your sidestand switch and/or your clutch switch is probably defective.  |
