| Author | Message | ||
     Tcbolt |
Tried using the search and couldn't find the thread I was looking for, so sorry in advance. I'm going to be doing my valve adjustment soon and need some advice on stands to use. I currently have pit bull front and rear stands and an automotive floor jack. Will the pit bull stands work with the floor jack supporting the engine weight while rotating the engine? Thanks in advance for any advice / input. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Use a hydraulic jack with a wide footprint to lift/lower the engine. Do NOT use a scissor jack designed for lifting a car via the side/unibody frame. Spend the money on a hydraulic jack with four wheels. The F & R pitbull will work. You probably only need the rear. But make sure you chock the front wheels in place so nothing moves. | ||
| Tcbolt |
Awesome! That's what I have now. A hydraulic jack, NOT a scissor jack. I was just worried that when I rotate the engine the weight might shift making the bike unstable. Thanks for the advice! | ||
| Ironweed |
Recently finished my 12000 mile valve adjustment. I used a pitbull stand in the rear and a motorcycle jack (Craftsman) with two 2 x 4s to support the motor. I think you will find that a stand in the front might interfere with your need to move around a lot in the front of the motor. After all was ready, the rotation worked well by just raising or lowering the jack. Be slow with your movements with the jack-the rear stand might want to move a bit. I followed the service manual pretty much word for word and all went well with the actual adjustment. Shim removal and installation is tricky-make sure your magnet has a good pull and that your hand is steady. Make absolutely certain that the cam cover gaskets are in the proper position when you button everything up. I confess, my rear gasket was a leaker-I ran down the road thinking all was well. I was leaking oil all over the swingarm and rear tire-the bike spit me off in an intersection. I am OK (a sore hip for a while). The bike had some minor damage. And so, after another teardown and rotation to access the rear cam cover-I've got her sealed up well. Good luck and remember there is no margin for error when putting it all back together. I found that most of the valves were a bit tight-on most of the shims I had to go .002" thinner. | ||
| Dhays1775 |
I think I'm going to try the rotation method next time around. I pulled the front end and frame completely off the bike. It was pretty awesome, with plenty of room to work on everything. It took me a while to do it, but it all went very smoothly. Just take your time and watch all the cables making sure you keep from hanging too much weight on the harness. Good luck and enjoy!!! | ||
| Pmjolly |
Things might shift a little when you rotate down. Just take your time and be careful. Here is a video of mine rotating out of the frame. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZGrxp09QhA At the end, you will see my stands. I used a Pitbull trailer restraint bolted to the floor, and the front hung from the ceiling. I had the front end off to service the forks. It gave me more room to work on the valves, too. The wires that get tight are the horn wires. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
Don't rotate the engine. Do the frame removal. u will have alot more room to work. u will save time. 2 big hints to save time. 1. U don't have to remove the wheel and the forks seperately. Remove the bolts in the upper triple clamp and you will be able to slide the whole front end off the bike and roll it away. 2. Don't remove everythin from the swingarm. U can turn it sideways and slide it through the frame as u remove the frame. with those 2 tricks u should be able to pull the frame in under 2 hours. as far as stands, use the pitbull rear, and get a 4raise wheel atv type hydralic stand to support the engine. u can run a tiedown under the frame and over the engine to keep the bike stable. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Dk, re: #2, do you mean the swingarm or the rear sub-frame? | ||
| D_adams |
Build a small frame to support the engine, mine slides under from the side, 4 points on the bottom of the motor.  Most of the wiring stays with the frame. I have a little extra.  | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
haha. Yeah, I meant the sub frame. The swing arm won't fit through the frame Lol. | ||
| Tcbolt |
Lots of good info here. Thanks everyone. Much more confident now going into this. Thanks again. | ||
| Cutty72 |
I split mine as well. Here is a link to my thread in another forum. http://www.twowheelfix.com/showthread.php?t=21335& highlight=valve I used my pitbull rear stand and a cherry picker for the front/frame. | ||
| Craigsmoney |
One thing I did to help me along was I bunggied the bike stand to the bike so if the rear lifted, it wouldn't fall off the stand on the rear. It almost did, so that's why I did it. | ||
| Cutty72 |
Good point, I took a ratchet strap around the stand, through the rear wheel, and down to a tie point in the floor. Made it much more stable. | ||
| Baf |
I used front and rear pitbull stands when I did mine. Rotated motor - everyone says kipping frame is easier, but it looks harder and more time consuming to me. Had plenty of room up front with the stand in. Motor rotate was easy, just tedious in removing all the parts. Follow the service manual and its not very difficult IMO. |
