| Author | Message | ||
     Dennis_c |
On the road mine runs about 105F to 115F above out side air temp. So if its 90F I run about 195 to 200F does this sound about right? | ||
| Crabby |
your engine temperature has little to do with the ambient temperature. I mean, engines run between 175 and 220 generally. What will impact engine temperature is A) Ambient temperature B) how fast you are moving So B) plays a big factor into how cool your bike is or is not. Make sense? | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Yes that sounds right. In fact most liquid cooled modern engines, whether they are automotive or motorcycle run at about the same temps. Most liquid cooled auto/moto engines will produce their best power around 180-190 deg. They will also produce the least emissions at 220 deg. Finally, they begin to suffer damage at 230+ degrees. My VFR800’s fan begin to run continuously at 220 degrees and it will not allow it to get hotter than that. The 1125R fan begin to run when coolant temp get to 170 degrees I believe. Don’t know when they switch and run continuously at high speed though. | ||
| Sparky |
Recalling the infrared pix of an Aprilia engine posted here previously, I'd be interested in seeing some IR pictures of the 1125 engine while hot, especially the left side, in order to see how hot the stator coils are in relation to other parts of the engine. | ||
| Sprintst |
Crabby nailed it Too many people fixate on lowering the temp modern engines need to run pretty warm, and the computer will protect the engine from overheating cooler isn't necessarily better so unless you are getting warnings, why worry about it? (Message edited by sprintst on June 21, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
my experience has been similar to what other people have mentioned; at 60 mph at 5-6k rpm, operating temps seem to be about 100-110*F above the real outside temperature (not the intake air ambient temp reading, which is always higher). to crabby's two criteria i would add a third: C) RPM. just by eyeballing the instrument cluster I've seen temperature change by as much as 10 degrees by changing RPM while A) and B) remain constant. | ||
| Samg |
I was at 212f sitting in bumper to bumper traffic.. Outside temp was 97f | ||
| Phwx2 |
6/21/12 sitting in traffic in downtown Hartford, CT. Coolant temp 223 (the highest I have observed yet) I did not check the outside temp but it was in the 99-100 range. Once I got on the open road the CT went down into the high 190's. I was also in the catch 22 - elect going down into the low 12's and temp going up. Next time its going to be that hot I think I'll take the XB. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Ambient has a definite effect on the 1125's coolant temp. The thermostat opens at something like 160F, and on cold days, the coolant temp stays pretty close to that because the air going through the radiators has a bigger cooling effect. On warm days, I see 180-190 and sometimes up to 200 or so when riding it hard. If the 1125 had a significantly larger cooling system, the coolant would stay close to radiator temp most, if not all of the time. (Assuming the fans are running or there is sufficient ambient airflow through the radiators.) (Message edited by thefleshrocket on June 23, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
Yesterday I paid very close attention to temps and volts during the ride. My results echo fleshrocket's. 95*F outside, temps varied from 188-220*F. Temps were always at their hottest when the bike was sitting at idle, or when I was really on it for sustained periods over 7k. Dropping to 5k at interstate speeds brought the bike down to the lowest readings. (I won't ride it below 5k because I want to assure good forced air and oil cooling.) IME it takes a fair amount of time at cruising speed to get rid of all of the retained heat and see the temp go back down to 190*F. There's no doubt about it, the bike gets hot when it's hot outside. you have to be going fast to keep it cooled if it's hot, preferably not riding at a high RPM that is generating excess heat. Volts? I never saw below 13.9, and that was when idling at a stoplight when CT=220. Range: 13.9-14.1. I don't experience any large voltage drops. | ||
| Andros |
How exactly will the computer warn us if overheating? Im considering changing the oilcooler and would love to know about the warning systems since ill experiment a bit. | ||
| Dannybuell |
crabby your first post is hilarious! | ||
| Crabby |
Well, the faster you move, the more cooling you have. The faster you are moving, the harder your engine is working, and making more heat. Ambient temperature, Humidity, altitude all have effects, but who cares what the AT is. Its the temperature inside the engine that is important | ||
| Rogue_biker |
If the engine runs higher than a certain temp, the ECM will shut it down. | ||
| Froggy |
It will enter skip spark, which starts cutting the ignition to allow the engine to cool off. | ||
| Timebandit |
i think he was asking if there are advisories that come up on the IC when it begins to soft skip spark, or when it begins to hard skip spark. | ||
| 1_mike |
Two things WILL...help. 1. Put a manual switch in the fan system. Turn them on "before" they are actually required. 2. Turn up the ignition timing. This WILL lower the coolant temp. Like most engines in the current time...the EPA mandates certain emissions requirements. High (?) ignition timing raises the NOX output which the EPA hates to see. My CR hardly reaches 200F anymore...even on 100F days in So. Cal. For the record...you can go a long way with the timing without hurting pistons OR needing race gas. Power goes up, mileage goes up, coolant temp goes down. One noted personality on this board challenged me on this. All of a sudden (well, 2 or 3 months later)....he was touting the benefits of advancing the timing...!? Go figure..!? Just basic internal combustion engine tuning facts. Mike | ||
| Froader4life |
how do you turn up the ignition timing on our bikes? | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
get an EBR ECM, if u don't know how to do it, then u shouldn't mess with it. You can mess up ur engine if u screw it up. A programmed ECM from EBR will make ur bike run alot better, they did the work on a dyno and set the tune up. When I got my EBR ecm, I gained HP, the temp dropped 10-15 degrees, and gained a few mpg. | ||
| Zac4mac |
1_Mike - advancing timing for a motor under load will cool it. Retarding under no-load will cool. My first timing mod was to drop 10-12 degrees at idle. OEM was around 16*BTDC, I dropped to 5.5. Headers quit glowing orange at idle and motor ran Buttah-smooth. I also bumped up the high end by a few points. better power for sure. Z | ||
| Chessm |
i know this is off the subject but since it was brought up...has anyone dyno'd a stock bike with the EBR ECM? it would be interesting to see a before and after |
