| Author | Message | ||
     Bertman |
Ever since I got this bike the lights pulsate in brightness. They seem to flicker at a fast beat but don't appear to change with the engine rpm's. I am curious how other peoples 1125R's are in comparison. Are your lights rock steady or do they also pulse in brightness. | ||
| Doerman |
I'm assuming you are talking about the headlights? I've not seen any noticeable pulsation on mine. Neither on the LCD dash. I've not ridden it on "country lane" darkness only in the city after dark, where a slight pulsing might not have been noticeable. Asbjorn | ||
| Darkice19 |
Check the light assembly and make sure its not lose. also check the lightbulbs. Does it happen when the bike is idling or when your out riding or both? | ||
| Bertman |
Headlights - tail light - dash panel back lighting. It happens idling and at speed. | ||
| Bueller_bjorn |
mine don't pulse they are pretty solid at all speeds and ive driven it in pitch black country roads with no pulsing which on another note the lights are much improvement from my XB12r  | ||
| Baggermike |
I would check the battery conections and sand them to clean them up, and after installing the cables back, coat with vasaline or diolectic grease. My bike does not have this problem, but another bad voltage regulator so maybe could be the problem also. Mike | ||
| Brumbear |
get it in the shop could have a bad reg or diodes | ||
| Bertman |
I just had it in the shop for a muffler swap out on Saturday. A totally frustrating morning starting with trying to put the bike in my S10 pickup at 6:00 a.m. and not being able to strap it down properly. To giving up and saying I know I got a cold but I am going to have to ride it the 100 miles with the possibility of rain to the dealer. To finally after 20 minutes of lugging the bike in and out of the truck, sweating like a pig, put on my heavy gear and helmet and turn the key on to get nothing! A discharged battery of 5.6v that wouldn't even light the gauge cluster. Charged it up for a few hours, got it to start and rode down to Ventura where the guys there did a heck of a job getting me in and out on my Calif. muffler swap so I could make it back north before the rain came. I mentioned check the charging system because of my discharged battery, but did not mention the pulsing light system itself. I checked my battery earlier this evening after not riding it for two days and it is holding at 12.67 volts so I don't know what discharged it. As soon as I get time, and feel better, I'll get out and check it out. | ||
| Krassh |
Sounds like a bad voltage regulator. There has been a few bad ones going around. | ||
| Chameleon |
Did you ever figure this out? I've noticed when my battery is low, the lights flicker. Mine is in the shop now for a belt replacement (snapped w/only 5300+/- miles) and I've asked them to look again at the charging system. | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Bertman ,I had the same incident about goin' to strap it in the truck and realizing I can't do it on the bars like my other Buells. I had to go get some soft ties to strap it down properly. And like you I was in a hurry when it took a turn for the worse. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I don't know what discharged it You are not alone. Hopefully someone will shed some light on this soon.}} | ||
| Buellnick |
I had the same battery discharge incident - still unexplained. Charged up and started OK. Also, pulsing instrument lights around 2400-2600RPM. The pulsing goes completely away after 2800RPM. I told the dealer about the pulsing and they told me the charging system is ok and that "they all do that." I'm watching it. I really don't like answers like that. Something is not right, they just don't know what it is... The discharged battery has never happened again and the charging system seems to putting out plenty of power. The system voltage is at 14V+ with the engine running. | ||
| Bertman |
Well since my January episode of discharging the battery, the electrics have been fine. The lights both front and back were definitely flickering immediately after discharging the battery, but they seem fine since. The only thing I did to the bike the night before the battery episode was to get into the diagnostic mode and try and reset my PIN number. Could not even do that because the ECM would not recognize the default number - cool. My best guess would be that something in the ECM stayed on as a draw the whole night, but why and what function of it would be pure speculation on my part. I have been riding the Firebolt the last couple of weeks because the 1125R is back at the dealer getting a couple of other issues taken care of. Leaking clutch slave, and leaking rear brake cylinders are both getting replaced and they are also looking into a possible fueling issue because my bike doesn't cruise at around town speeds very smoothly. I was told the tech was able to reproduce the surging but they have not narrowed it down yet. | ||
| Baggermike |
Bertman did you have all you lights on when the bike was surging, I had this happen to me yesterday with my high beams on and when I run just the low my bike is very smooth, but yesterday I was wondering why it was not cruising slow good and then shut off my high beams and it went away. Mike | ||
| Bertman |
I don't run the 1125R with the high beams on generally because of other peoples issues with their charging problems. Running on low beams only and it will surge, sometimes harshly enough that it will accentuate the clunk clunk of the primary. | ||
| Andella |
My dash lights pulse quickly at any RPM too. | ||
| Chameleon |
Bertman: What RPM range do you cruise around town at? I've been told by a tech that went through the 1125R training that the bike does not produce enough power below about 3250 RPMs and it will shake and surge when you try to run it below there. He also told me that below 4000 RPMs the stator does not produce enough power to charge the battery and much below that won't produce enough to keep up with demands and will actually drain the battery. They suggested that long idling may be why I have been having intermittent charging problems. I categorically denied that at first, but after discussing with a friend, he did point out that I do let it sit and idle for a while after first starting it up to let it get fully up to temperature and sometimes a bit longer while I'm getting my gear on. My friend suggested that I not start it until shortly before I'm ready to go and that I just keep the RPMs in the 3-5k range until it's fully warmed up. Do the rest of you let the bike come fully up to temperature while idling before taking off? Do you do as my friend suggests and get going before it's fully warmed up, but just keep the RPMs low? Or do you do something else? | ||
| Ccryder |
I start mine and then gear up. Usually I'm ready right about the engine showing a temp. I usually cruise between 4500 and 5500rpm. Good power, good control, nice and smooth and......... GREAT for a squirt around some slow poke. In Kentucky they are known for their 50 yard passing zones. The 25r IS the bike for that!!!!!! Almost too much fun. You do have to watch the front end since it gets REAL light in that scenario!!!! I have been checking my battery voltage everyday when I get home from work (~55 miles of 2-lane state and county roads). The voltage is always in the 12.7-12.85 range after the fans shut off. Who could ask for anything more??????? Neil S. | ||
| Bertman |
I don't touch the gas until the temp gets to the 151 deg. mark. Some people have fouled plugs touching the throttle or shutting the bike off before it warms up so like Neil I just take my time and suit up. I have a 40 mph stretch of road for about three miles going to and from work that I normally plonk along at about 3500 rpm's. This is when I mostly notice the surging. My 12R does the lean/rich surge at 3000 rpm's so it all seems normal Buell to me, but you guys say for the most part your engines are smooth. The engine itself will pull like a freight train from 3000 on up, so I really don't think I am out of the normal cruising powerband. When I get my bike back I'll check out the charging or discharging rpm range to get a better idea of where I need to be running the engine. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Bertman - check your Front and Rear Adapt Fuel numbers in Diagnostic Mode. Mine is at 94.5 at 5500 foot elevation. She runs very smooth from 3k and up but fairly smooth all the way down to idle speed. At sea level in Texas, last week, she ran VERY rough up to 3500, then kinda smoothed out from there. Front and rear were still at 94.5, C.S. tells me it should have been nearer 100 at sea level. Now back home, she's running like a top again, still at 94.5. This motor is smooth when it's happy. Don't touch the throttle at all until the temp is above 150˚F. She's MUCH happier that way. Guess she's kinda like me - don't even talk to me in the morning before I've had a coupla cuppas. Zack | ||
| Chevycummins |
My lights flicker also. More noticible under 3000rpm with cooling fans on. I think the charging system has a hard time supporting the lights and fans under 3000rpm. Probably normal. | ||
| Chameleon |
Yeah, alternator/stator doesn't produce enough power under 4K. | ||
| Blake |
"Yeah, alternator/stator doesn't produce enough power under 4K." Bad assumption that may be easy to make. But it is inaccurate. My truck does the same exact thing, going on 22 years now. It's charging system works perfectly. Always has. |
