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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through January 10, 2013 » O-Er Mr Grimely. 7k on the belt « Previous Next »

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Uly_man
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 10 bike is close, for me, to the dreaded 7k miles on the belt. I had two go at that point on the 06 bike. At the moment the belt looks good with no wear or slack. In fact it still looks like new but that means very little.

So we will see? I do, of course, have a spare "rubber band" to hand if needed.

Best to have one if needed than to need one and not have it. Or something like that. Or is that "birth control". Or is it ICBMs?
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put 20K on my first belt, 12K on my second, and 8K on my third. At this point I can change the thing out in less than half an hour. Worry about something else. Bearings, for example, or your ECM.
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Buellerxt
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, Ski, we know, we know, you are THE MAN when it comes to changing a belt on the side of the road with limited tools! lol Now, be responsible in your new esteemed role and give us mere mortals the benefit of your extensive learnings. : ) Not a link to your hilarious belt changing sagas, but a slimmed down, easiest and simplest way, but with enough details for a novice to perform the task. Something we can fold up easily, tuck away next to our heart, and ride along 'almost' wanting the belt to fail so we can make quick work of a change and become a Ski's disciple. : ) Capiche? : )

(Message edited by buellerxt on December 07, 2012)
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Teeps
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uly_man Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 -

Best to have one if needed than to need one and not have it. Or something like that. Or is that "birth control". Or is it ICBMs?

Kaopectate...
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok Bueller, you asked.
I carry everything I need on the bike, and it consists of the Buell tool kit, the hex nut that fits into the rear axle, a socket that fits the hex nut, and a breaker bar. I don't know the various sizes of allen wrenches etc, if you have the tool kit you have everything you need. That stuff all fits under the seat. I carry the belt in one of the side bags.

When you need to replace the belt do the following:

1) Loosen the bolt that secures the axle, using an allen wrench.
2) Loosen the axle, by rotating counter clockwise 25 turns.
3) Remove the belt guard and the piece of plastic over the tensioning pulley.
4) Using an allen wrench, detach the right side footpeg attachment. Three allen bolts. This gives access to the frame piece.
5) You'll note, on the right side, a frame piece, a 'bridge' if you will, that is attached to the frame by four allen bolts. Remove this part.
6) Push the front part of the belt through this opening in the frame, and fit it over the front drive pulley, with the bottom of the belt against the tensioning pulley.
7) Push the back loop of the belt over the rear pulley. I find it's easiest to fit the top part on the pulley and back the bike up which will roll it on.
8) Reverse all of the above. Remember that you unwound the axle 25 turns, so same 25 back on. That way you don't have to sweat the torque wrench you don't have.
8) If you're so inclined, light up a Marlboro and feel like those guys in the viagra commercials who 'know how to get things done.'

Hope that helps.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1.

First roadside belt change for me, Buell toolkit, 20 degree weather...under 30 minutes.

To clarify - the "frame piece" that Ski refers to is the bridge in the swingarm.

I did have to remove the tensioner pulley on my bike, but with some fiddling on the suspension loading (never took it off the sidestand but I did use a ratchet strap to compress/extend to get the best belt looseness) I probably could have installed without removing it.
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Kag
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 04:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good info.....when I had new tires put on a week ago (10k miles odo) I had them put a new belt on so now I have a spare.

Could you please post up the exact tools needed to carry to perform this. I am working to put together a basic tool kit to carry on the Uly

thanks

So I guess the new belts I hear about are no better than the old belts?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just go to your bike with the above list of actions.

Catalog the tools you'll need as you go through the list.

- axle pinch bolt
- axle
- swingarm bridge
- footpeg mount
- belt guards
- and if you're like me, belt tensioner pulley.

If you can find a Buell toolkit that rolls up in black canvas, it has everything you need and more.

And a note for roadside repair: I always mark my axle with touchup paint once I torque it in the garage. That way I can do a quick visual check pre-ride to make sure it (or any other critical fasteners I've marked) hasn't started backing out. MARK your axle before you remove it for a belt replacement. I certainly don't carry a torque wrench under the seat...at least if you have a mark to line up, you can put the axle back pretty darned close, for the ride home to a torque wrench, without damaging bearings.
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Buellerxt
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, Ski. Much appreciated! : ) Good job, Ratbuell. Very impressive, particularly in those temps!

I have 20,000 miles on my belt and will probably change it out, hopefully in the garage, : ), at about 30,000 miles to have a spare.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This isn't really necessary, as the Uly has lots of storage space...
But for my 1125R I modified a combo wrench for the axle that fits in the tail compartment.

I can change the 1125R's belt roadside anytime.







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Kag
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

very handy to say the least
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Uly_man
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 01:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes it easy(ish)to do at the roadside. It is, however, better to have tried it at home once before you have to do it on the roadside. It will help to know that the axle and bridge bolts are free. Copper grease is a good idea on these as well. Do not overdo the hanger bolts as they can "strip" easy. Hand tight is enough.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do not overdo the hanger bolts as they can "strip" easy. Hand tight is enough.
Part of the reason it's so nice doing it with the roll-up toolkit. No hex socket on a ratchet, just that little, no-leverage L shaped allen key. ZERO danger of stripping threads! : )
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Uly_man
Posted on Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do not overdo the hanger bolts as they can "strip" easy. Hand tight is enough.

I had one go on the 06 bike and I was using a brand new calibrated torque wrench to the right Buell spec for the bolt.
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Buellerxt
Posted on Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ski and Rat, do you change the belt out with the bike on it's kickstand? Thanks.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, on the kickstand.
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