| Author | Message | ||
     Pontlee77 |
I finally purchased my hid lights, no i need a diagram on how to hook up the cables, so that when they arrive i'm ready. Thanks friends. | ||
| Froggy |
It should come with instructions, but it is pretty straight forward. Cut hole in headlight boot, plug in cables, done. | ||
| Andymnelson |
yup, it will come with a diagram. But here's one for you in the meantime: + -> + - -> -  | ||
| Pontlee77 |
and the ballasts?  | ||
| Ronmold |
What watt units are you getting? 35, I used stock wiring, 55 run a battery lead & use relays. | ||
| Andymnelson |
The ballasts only have a + and - input. They outputs to the bulb have specific connectors, just plug those in. Many say to run a relay (I did, but I run my heated grips, GPS and other stuff off that same line), but the current draw of both the 35W and 55W DDM kits peaks on start up at 6 amps. The 55W ballasts run at 3.4 amps once running, and the 35W at like 2.25 amps. By the numbers, there's absolutely no reason for a relay. Proper connections are the key here- a poor connection creates heat and melting connectors and such. | ||
| Towpro |
Mine have a harness that runs to the headlight. This harness has a rubber bushing. I cut the back of the head light rubber so this rubber bushing sealed into the original headlight rubber. In that harness is a connector that your original headlight connector plugs into (which is located on the side of the bushing so it is sealed into the headlight area). Plus there was 2 water proof connectors where the harness plugged into the ballast (I think it was the ballets). Nothing on the bike needs to be modified accept maybe a couple holes in the bracket behind the fly screen to mount the ballasts. If you have clearance problems, try turning the horn around so the big side is facing rear instead of forward. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/233088.html | ||
| Mnrider |
When you install the bulbs in the housing make sure the blue wire on the bulb is on the bottom. | ||
| Ronmold |
If the 55w take 3.4a running, that's less than the stock ones, a relay would be unnecessary. The simpler we keep our bikes, the better. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
If the 55w take 3.4a running, that's less than the stock ones, a relay would be unnecessary. Except that it pulls double those amps when starting up. People have melted connectors using 35 watt HID's. If you really want to take that risk with 55 watt, then have fun! I personally ride to far from home to often to want to risk melting parts; especially when I know there is a super simple and cheap 'cure' for it. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Yep. I'd run the relay off the bulb switch (or 194 bulb) and direct wire a fused connection to the battery. | ||
| Andymnelson |
No, the DDM kits are capped at 6 amps. 6 amps running through the stock wiring with good, clean connections will not melt anything. Remember, a made connection creates resistance, and resistance means heat! I keep hearing about melted connectors and such. I can all but guarantee one of the following is true in any connector melting experience: 1) a kit other than DDM was used 2) poor connections were made 3) crappy connectors (like scotch locks) were used 4) an insufficient gage of wire was used at some point |
