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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through June 20, 2008 » Replacing rear drive and bake disk bolts « Previous Next »

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Cpilot
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was surprised to see in the shop manual that you are to replace both the brake disk and drive fasteners if you remove the disk and drive pulley from the rear wheel. Is this common practice? Or is this being overly cautious?
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am sure its some kind of over safe lawyer nazi thing, but i changed them anyway. Last thing i need the sprocket to disconnect from the wheel at 60mph.
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Rwcfrank
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Once you torque the bolts they stretch and should no longer be used.
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Dr_greg
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I remove the rear pulley when I change tires and I've reused them a few times. Sky hasn't fallen yet.
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Arcticktm
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When an OEM specifies this, it usually means one of 2 things:
1. There is a pre-applied thread lock or sealant on the fasteners (the bolts that hold the drive sprocket to the stator are this way).

2. The bolts have been torqued into their yield region to get the proper clamp load at the factory. This permanently deforms the fastener, and also means the applying het factory torque a second time will NOT provide the same results.

You might be OK, and you might not, just like some bolts will not fall out if you do not follow proper torque specs.
The question becomes: How lucky do you feel?
I have seen other guys sprocket bolts fall out on dirt bikes, and it is not pretty.

Torque-to-yield is becoming more and more common, especially in joints that see higher temperatures.
The alternative would force the OEM to use much larger or more expensive material bolts, or some kind of locking compound.
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