| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
just did my first(non dealer) oil change and had 2 questions; 1. As much as i searched, i could not find torque values for the drain plug. i know the manual is too high, as the 34 or so specified has resulted in a few stripped swingarms. i therefore set it to about 19. seem alright? 2. EXACTLY 2.5 quarts of 20-50w leaves the oil level UNDER the 'add' mark on the stick. should i add more or leave as is? thx for the input. | ||
| Barker |
1. I use a bit of blue loctite and snug it up. 2. Oil must be checked warm. Have you warmed it up and ridden for 10 minutes, then check the oil level? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I noticed the same thing on my Uly: 2.5 quarts doesn't bring it quite up to the "add" mark even after riding for +10 minutes. I add enough to bring it half-way up the operating range. | ||
| Florida_lime |
2.5 quarts will usually put me at XX on the dipstick (checked hot) -- you really don't want or need to be "full". For what it is worth, the manual calls for a thread sealant, not a thread locker. I don't have access to it right now, but it is basically teflon tape in a liquid form. | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
The first few times I changed my oil, I did not use any thread sealant. I believed it wasn't really needed. Last summer I went to remove the plug and it was already a couple of turns out. I now use the thread sealant. No problems since. As you already know do not use the factory torque spec. Just good and hand tight. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The shop manual quotes a Locktite product; I checked a couple of auto parts stores and couldn't find it. I looked it up at Locktite's site and it's a pipe sealant with teflon. When you pull your drain plug, you'll see some white goo on it; that's the stuff. Go to any building supply store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.), look in the plumbing section for "teflon pipe thread sealant". It doesn't harden, but it'll keep the plug from backing out and provides a secondary seal (besides the o-ring). | ||
| Florida_lime |
I tried several places for the Loctite brand, ended up with the Permatex version: http://http://www.permatex.com/products/industrial /b_thread_sealants/c_thread_sealants/Permatex_Thre ad_Sealant_with_PTFE.htm | ||
| Adrian_8 |
You don't need loctite, pipe tape or a torque wrench. People have stripped the drain plugs by using the big torque wrench with the wrong # lbs...Just snug up the nut with a fairly new O ring and after you ride the bike check the oil on a flat surface with the handlebars in the same position and that is your full mark...It ain"t rocket science.. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
2.5 quarts is "full". The level that registers as full on you bike may be different than what is full on another. I have the preload jacked way up on mine. As a result, the swingarm is canted backward more than one with the preload set to minimum. This shifts the oil rearward away from the tip of the dipstick. There are also variations on the lean of the bike based upon the "looseness" of the side stand as well as the preload of the rear shock. When you shorten the distance between the front and rear wheel it changes the lean angle of the bike and compounds the variation of the oil level on the dipstick. When I fill my bike with 2.5 quarts, it is below the fill line. When hot it is AT the "fill" line. Any oil that I put into the fill hole above the "fill" line ends up inside my airbox and in my engine. Each person should change the oil, replace with exactly 2.5 quarts, take the bike for a good calm ride (no hard accelerations or engine braking), bring it back to a level spot where you usually check your oil, turn the bike off, allow it to sit for 5 minutes, check the oil. Whatever level it is at on the stick is YOUR "full" level. Make note of it. Score the stick. I think there are a lot of folks unintentionally riding two stroke bikes with "oil vapor injection" systems. | ||
| Portero72 |
Thx, Fatty,(all due respect) that makes alot of sense. Good, logical points I had not yet considered. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
No problem. I'm sure that someone will chime in shortly and tell you I'm full of crap.  | ||
| Nimnal |
FB is full of crap. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Nice. | ||
| Etennuly |
Yep, I concur; Ft_b = full of crap.  | ||
| Etennuly |
Oh yeah, you're right though! | ||
| Nimnal |
Sometimes I can't help myself.  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I WAS full of crap, but I took a dump. | ||
| Etennuly |
I hope everything came out alright!  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Sideways. | ||
| Crusty |
Are you sh*ttin' me? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
We are getting way too familiar here. | ||
| Ishai |
allow it to sit for 5 minutes, check the oil. Are you sure about hat part? I thought you should check level as soon as possible- maybe even when the fan is still running...} | ||
| Ishai |
sorry, the 5 minute part was supposed to be a quote. I meant to ask about the wait period. | ||
| Tootal |
Other than the fact that the Fat Bastard is full of scheisse, I realize the factory wants you to check your oil when hot but it's usually easier to check when cold so after an oil change I add my 2.5 quarts and check my level. Wherever the level is I filed a line there. Now before I ride I can easily see if I'm good to go. The older Harley dipsticks had a Hot reading and a Cold. There were roughly a 1/2 quart difference. But then again I might be full of shit too! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Wait 5 minutes. The reason for this is to allow splash oil on the sides of the swing arm and line oil to settle back into the swing arm and level out. Don't have to, but I do. Nearly all of the overfill oil will end up in your intake and airbox. The problem with cold measurement is that it is less consistent. Temperature variations are going to create differences in oil volume, tubing and fixture shrinkage, oil cooler shrinkage, swing arm shrinkage, engine case shrinkage, etc. Hot checking allows all the components to be at operating temperatures. The overall issue is that air-cooled Buell engines are the bain of anal retentive folks who insist that fluid levels be exact to the fraction of an ounce. There is simply no completely accurate way to determine the exact oil level in our engines. Everything is simply a good guess. | ||
| Florida_lime |
The overall issue is that air-cooled Buell engines are the bain of anal retentive folks who insist that fluid levels be exact to the fraction of an ounce. What makes you think Buell riders are anal retentive !? Oh, and it's bane.  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Oh, and it's bane. Yeah, I know. I was on my Blackberry. | ||
| Crusty |
Yeah, I know. I was on my Blackberry. Well, no wonder you're constipated! | ||
| Tootal |
In reality if there is any oil left in the swingarm once the engine is running your oil pump won't suck air. I agree a cold reading is not as accurate but as long as your not overfilled then it makes no difference. If it's 30 degrees outside and I have oil on my dipstick it's ready to go. Your engine doesn't know the difference. | ||
| Etennuly |
Oh Crap. Blackberries cause constipation. I must say, I didn't know that. Is it really bane? I feel that I need to know. | ||
| Florida_lime |
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/bane Bain is French for bath !  | ||
| Arcticktm |
Make sure you are checking the oil hot, on the sidestand, and screwing the dipstick all the way in. Many of us are used to bikes that are supposed to be on a center stand or not screwing the dipstick, and that will give you an artificially low reading. I have learned to be comfortable with any level from the lowest to half way up with this Buell, since it likes to use oil, and will use it really fast if you fill beyond half way (3X's). If you want the exact Loc-tite product, my Buell dealer had it. A small tube was a few dollars, but it will last for years. The SM also asks for the stuff on the primary drain plug. I have been using it and torque the plugs to about 18-20ft lbs. |
