| Author | Message | ||
     Tempest766 |
I'm getting so angry with how fragile these bikes are. Every time I try to put something back together I end up stripping something. I had to change my back tire and in the process of putting the idler pulley back on I really trashed the top 1/4" of the threads on the forward mounting stud. Definitely need a new nut, and cannot even attempt to put it back on until the threads on that stud are fixed. I need to be able to do this while the idler pulley is attached because I'm not removing the thing again and damaging the other stud. I doubt there's enough room to use a threading die, since the stud is only 1" from the other one. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
There's no need to remove the idler pulley to remove the rear wheel. I've taken my rear wheel off many times without doing so. It's a bit of a hassle to get the belt off it but far less of a hassle then removing the pulley. If I were you, I'd pull the wheel off, remove the pulley, run a die over the stud, put the pulley back on and never touch it again. Trust me, I replaced a belt without screwing with the pulley. (Message edited by skifastbadly on March 31, 2012) | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
"I'm getting so angry with how fragile these bikes are." 57K on mine i am yet to use a heli coil or a tap and die on it, no one has laid a wrench on the bike since it left the factory but me, Just sayin | ||
| Tempest766 |
@ skifastbadly - I was only doing what the service manual said to do, which didn't make sense to me because removing/installing the pulley under belt tension WILL hork up the threads, especially on a newer belt that is still stiff. OTOH, I'm questioning the wisdom of a drive pulley that is static rather than spring loaded, or at least adjustable. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Service manual is not always right, there is much more knowledge here than in the manuals, no need to touch the pulley to remove the wheel or put it back on just you need a bit of patience and take it easy, and remember don't force it. | ||
| Yo_barry |
Actually my FM says loosen rear axle 15 turns. That lets the belt side of of the rear wheel rest on the smaller diameter of the axle relieving tension on the belt. (09 FM) However I still messed up the threads on one of studs. I thought I'd run a die down that stud next time I take it off. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Tempest, That tensioner is a bitch under load. I made the mistake of loosening it when I replaced a broken belt on the roadside, I had to pound it back into place with a rock and buggered up the stud, I had to use a die to fix it. For either wheel or belt removal, there's no need to take it off. Once you have the stud sorted, never take it off again. Good luck. | ||
| Tempest766 |
On the morrow I'm going to attempt to ride the thing over to my adopted uncle's house, with only the one of the studs nutted, and see if he can help me out with dies and such. The guy has made whole sprint cars from the ground up so I'm crossing my fingers. | ||
| Tempest766 |
On another note...since I'm probably going to have to remove the rear axle again: I noticed that the axle inside the rear wheel seemed to have a layer of lubricant on it. I don't think the rear bearings were leaking and they're just as tight as they ever were. However, I am thinking it would be a good idea to maintain that grease on the rear axle. What kinds of grease should I use? What should I avoid? Basic lithium grease like you'd put in vehicle steering linkage? or the anti-seize lube like you put on wheel spindles before you mount the rims? | ||
| Skifastbadly |
I'm pretty sure the stuff on the axle is anti-seize, that's what's called for in the manual. There's no real lubrication required, since all the bits that turn are in the bearings. | ||
| Paul56 |
Anti-seize. Sparingly. Only where the bearings ride on the axle plus a dab on the threads of the axle and the right side where it is pinched by the allen bolt. | ||
| Crusty |
I tend to put a bit of mileage on my bikes, as I use them for daily transportation and traveling. I also do my own tires. My (Ex)wife also has a Buell (XB12Ss), and I'd change the tires on her bike, as well. We usually go through two sets of tires each a year; and sometimes three sets. I've never had a problem changing tires. I read the service manual and do what it says. These bikes are not "Fragile" They are engineered to work well, and they do. If you're tearing things up when you work on them, I strongly suggest you buy a Service Manual and follow what it says. There may be "shortcuts", but if it's your first time doing a particular job, don't even consider them. Do it by the book, and you won't have to repair other things that weren't broken when you started. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Tempest- you should be able to fix your boogered-up threads without removing the pulley using a thread file. Buy/borrow one like this: http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2249.aspx?utm_so urce=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=KDT2249&ut m_campaign=googlebase_18u&gclid=CIyq04rqk68CFQTd4A odQnow0Q | ||
| Zac4mac |
Pull the axle halfway out, that relaxes the belt. "Paint" the axle with anti-seize, you can't get too much on it. keeps the raw aluminum from corroding. Anything BUT fragile, mine just took a nap on me(literally) yesterday coming down off the dyno(new DynoJet 250i). I have a split lip, the Uly got a couple of scratches on the bottom of the left saddlebag. Took me 45 minutes to get her upright. grrrrrr. Compressing the rear suspension with a ratchet-strap was the final trick. It was worth the pain, she did 75 ft-lbs and 90 HP in 5th. stock. Rev-limiter put top speeds at 120ish in 4th and 140ish in 5th. I've had her up to 125 maybe... Work slowly and carefully and these bikes will last 3 lifetimes. When directions don't seem sound or complete, think it thru. Come here and ask the "collective". Laws of Physics/Mechanics don't change but misprints DO happen. As far as threads go, I use a small triangle file and clean one thread at a time. I have never liked thread files. Zack | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
When I changed out the belt at 25k miles I set up a fulcrum and levered the idler pulley back onto the remaining stud with a folded washcloth between the crowbar lever and the hardened finish of the idler. With wife's help, levered it up and tapped it on. No damage done to stud threads doing it that way. The engineers still could of made it easier for us though. Some other Badwebber hogged out one of the bracket holes so that it slightly relieves the belt tension and is easier to put back on during a belt change. Probably not such a bad idea considering that the belt maybe will stretch less with that method and stay stronger for the life of the belt. | ||
| Thejosh |
The rear axle tapers so that the pulley will slide forward when removing and aft while installing. I would recommend loosening the rear axle and removing the idler pulley, repair the threads with a thread repair die or something less aggressive than a standard thread cutting die. Then put the pulley back on, then tighten the axle, just my opinion. Josh | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Electraglider, When I had to do my second field replacement of a blown belt, I found no need to fart around with the idler pulley whatsoever. I got the belt around the drive pully, then on the idler pulley. Now, you have enough slack in the belt to get it half on the back pulley. Top or bottom, doesn't matter. Then, with the bike in neutral, simply push the bike forward or backward (depending on, well you know) and the belt rolls right on. | ||
| Uly_man |
You can do a road side belt change in 20 mins if you know how, have the tools and there are no seized parts IE the axle. The workshop way is to remove the axle so you would need a stand. Banging things on with bricks, levering the belt, rolling on the belt and such things are not a good idea unless its a MUST DO situation. "I'm getting so angry with how fragile these bikes are. Every time I try to put something back together I end up stripping something." The bike build is solid enough and as good as anything if not better. The crap thread locking paste MUST be removed, as with any other type, to Torque things up right. The Torque settings in the book are mostly a bit high as well. So the bike has a "bad" on things like wheel bearings? I have read a lot of posts, met a lot of folk who own bikes and it has long since been a wonder to me how people treat or try to repair there bikes. If your going to do it learn how its done right. (Message edited by uly_man on April 01, 2012) | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Ski, I rolled on the stock belt one time when the bike was fairly new. Thinking back, it was probably because I had already tightened the axle instead of doing it the proper way with the axle mostly unthreaded. It should of gone on easy since it was already stretched for the life of the original D616 tire. That belt lasted for 25,000 miles. | ||
| Buelldualsport |
It's a poor workman that blames the tools. |
