Author |
Message |
Terrible1one3
| Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 05:28 pm: |
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I did a search and have the Service manual already but could use some real world advice/how-to info. I have my bike jacked up and tied down, plastic cover removed, the nut itself is intimidating because of it's size (I don't have a tool to get around it). I opened the service manual to see where to start and of course there are custom tools required according to the book. Is there a way to remove it without having these tools? I know I will need to find a socket that fits the nut but other then that can I just lock the wheel against the swing-arm or something like that? Any walk throughs on how to set that up would be great. I am removing it to replace the stupid neutral light indicator switch which took a dump on me while I was doing other maintenance. Thanks in advance. |
Nik
| Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 05:54 pm: |
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The 'tool' in question is just an aluminum plate, approximately 1.125" x 4" x .187" with rounded corners. Only took me a couple minutes to make one. Definitely get or make the locking bar. It jams the sprockets against the chain so that when removing the sprocket nuts no forces are transmitted to the engine or transmission. |
Terrible1one3
| Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 06:04 pm: |
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I'm sorry but I am referring to the "transmission sprocket" as described in the Service Manual. It is the front sprocket for the belt final drive. Is that what you are talking about? I think you are talking about the sprocket in the primary. |
Nik
| Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 06:20 pm: |
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oh yeah sorry. I just happen to be working on it myself at the moment so it's on my mind. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 06:26 pm: |
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American Sport Bike sells them if you can't make one yourself (like me).... http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16075.html |
Terrible1one3
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 12:10 am: |
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Once again... Wrong sprocket. |
Wbrisett
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 04:47 am: |
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Maybe this is the one you're looking for? (I haven't broken my transmission down that far to need one myself). http://www.debrix.com/Transmission-Sprocket-Nut-Wr ench-Harley-Big-Twin-p/70445-m1.htm |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 10:05 am: |
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Terribleone3, Have your bike firmly on it's sidestand when removing any large torqued on nut or bolts. Applying torque to a bike on a jack stand is a good way to upset the bike and then cry about all the damage its falling to the floor has caused. |
Terrible1one3
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 10:36 am: |
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This is the sprocket I'm going for: Electra, thanks for the advice but this thing is locked down on the jack. Not my first rodeo with it . But if it does come off I'll let you know so you can say "I told you so!" |
Ian03xl
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 11:20 am: |
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If you can have an assistant hold the rear brake firmly while you loosen the nut. |
Terrible1one3
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 11:47 am: |
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Assistant... haha, that would be one of the nicer things I've called my neighbor |
Rays
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 05:49 pm: |
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Terrible - did you run into issues using the ground down socket approach? |
Tootal
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 05:57 pm: |
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First you're going to have to take that locking plate off!! Seriously if the neighbor doesn't work you could pull your primary cover and lock up the transmission with the 4" plate. That's a real pain considering what you're trying to do but it would work. |
Odd
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 07:38 pm: |
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The neutral switch can be remove without removing the belt hub. I will try to send a picture of the tool later when I GET MY CAMERA |
Terrible1one3
| Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 11:23 pm: |
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Rays.... this may sound 100% stupid but I totally forgot in the other thread people said it could be done with a ground down socket.. Wow, brain fart, I will look into that tomorrow most likely! Thanks for the reminder /bonk` |
Rays
| Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 12:28 am: |
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LOL - hopefully this will save you a heap of effort. I just did a quick measurement of my socket (it has been used for 3 different 12X switch replacements) and it started as a 50c rusty 5/8" socket ground down to a diameter of 0.720" for 0.500" and the remaining section ground down to 0.845". The actual dimensions are obviously not really critical - you just need the bottom section thin enough to fit into the recessed part of the crankcase and the stepped section thin enough to clear the pulley. You have to fiddle a little with the socket driver extension because the neutral switch electrical connection will protrude some of the way into the end of the socket but with the small torque involved this is not an issue. |
Odd
| Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 05:51 pm: |
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here is a cool tool for removing the neutral switch without having to pull the belt sprocket(a real pain in the rear). The tool size is 5/8".
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Reeftonbuell
| Posted on Monday, March 09, 2015 - 12:21 am: |
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The tool you have made here what size drive is the socket, is it a 1/4 3/8 or 1/2 ? |