| Author | Message | ||
     Ft_bstrd |
Ok, I'm down to the job, and then ugh! The old seal is so dried and desiccated that it's glued to the inside of the primary case and is just disintegrating as I touch it. Am I doing it wrong or is this seal just that fragged? Is there a trick to getting it to turn loose? It's like it's glued on. I'm afraid to fube it up. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Dam! Most people that i have read about that did it. Used a small machine screw to get it out(that i know of).....But in you case that is not going to work. The main thing is do not damage or scratch the inner aluminum part of the motor where the seal seats. It is so soft!!! you can fube it fast!  Someone will chime in with more experience. | ||
| Ratbuell |
On my FLHP, I skewered it with a sharp flat-blade screwdriver, and used the screwdriver to bend the side away from the case a little bit. Then slide the screwdriver between the outer edge of the seal and the case, and pry. Small scratches can be filled with Hylomar, which I use every time I set a seal anyway...and the FLHP went about 20k miles after I did the job, with no issues. I'm sure there's a "right" way to do it...but this was the way I had access to lol. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The old seal will fall apart.. that's why it's bad!!! Seriously, get under the inner metal lip with a small screwdriver and pry it out. As mentioned above, be careful to not gouge the case. It's soft.. Pull the inner spacer off the crank for easier access if you haven't already done that. Brad | ||
| Zenbiker |
I am experiencing this same issue, the metal part of the seal is a real bear to get out. For those who haven't had the pleasure yet, here is a bottom view of a torn, but stuck crank seal. Brad, this inner spacer you speak of, does it look like mine is removed?  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Anyone have a picture of what a new, good double lip installed looks like? I have this nagging feeling that I didn't do something right. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Neil, yeah, you have the spacer out.. I've got one around here somewhere Fat, I'll shoot you the pics. Brad | ||
| Hootowl |
Tapping one side of the seal in a bit might kick the other side out a bit. Don't hit the bearing. | ||
| Cyclonemick |
I used two little Screwdriver style hook set that I bought at the local hardware store. they have handles and shafts like a screwdriver but have little hooks on the end, I used two of them and managed to get behind the metal part of the seal, It was a real pain in the ARSE though! Good luck! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I checked the level after a 100 mile spirited ride. The level was exactly where it should be and the fluid was Sam Adams brown. The oil level was where it should be as well. I guess I just expected more from the seal than it looked like there was. The outer edge seats against the case and the inner surface seals against the spacer. Beyond that, I don't understand how the seal "seals" anything. Doesn't oil/primary fluid seep past the spacer? Does the engine side of the seal touch the engine case? I know folks talked about a seal being driven too deep and failing by rubbing against the bearing race, but I can't see how that could happen. Somehow I have this sinking feeling I've done something horribly wrong. | ||
| Jramsey |
The crank nut pulls the sprocket up tight against the spacer and the inner main bearing race thus making it leak free. The ends of the spacer and all bearing races are surface ground so the mating surfaces are very precise. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm not sure it pulls up tight, I think it just seals as is. That's the setup my Kawasaki's use for the transmission output shaft to the front sprocket, and until that seal wears a groove in the collar, it seals. | ||
| Jramsey |
Has to pull up tight or the crank sprocket would dance until the splines stripped. Japanese output shafts generally have an o-ring that fits the spacers chamfer where is seats against the bearing. Years ago some of the guys I knew removed the o-ring so they would have a auto-lube for the drive chain. | ||
| Jim2 |
I had a really difficult time getting my old seal out. A little screw driver didn't do the trick. I started out with a little hook, then went to a little screw driver. Then graduated to a bigger screw driver. After a lot of blood, sweat, and almost literally tears, I resorted to the biggest baddest screwdriver in my tool inventory and it still brought me to my knees!!! After some soul-searching and moral support from a fellow Badweber, I finally got that damn seal out. It sounded like a shot-gun going off when it let loose. Bloody knuckles was a side effect but I was so relieved at that point it didn't matter because I beat that damn seal. It left a couple of small scratches but the new double-lipped seal seated outside the scratches and they were very shallow. Not a problem since. Keep trying. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Primary oil won't want to go past the seal, even though it's on the "wrong side" - because the primary isn't pressurized, it just splashes around. Don't overthink it. It ain't NASA. Get it in straight, with no gouges, not too deep, not too shallow...and you're good to go. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Makes sense, I think you are corect Jramsey. (And how did you know about my KX-60 auto oiler?  ) | ||
| Oldog |
I would not sweat the scratches too much. the outside of the seal is rubber covered and will help seal small nicks and scratches just dont make grand canyon gashes and keep the debris outa the motor bearings |
