| Author | Message | ||
     Cowboytutt |
Hey guys, I'm all set with my Barker and Erik Buell Racing ECM and K&N. I don't have the service manual although I guess I need to order one. How do you remove the front muffler mount bolts behind the oil cooler? There is a nut on the backside of each, but no room to get a tool in there to hold it while loosening from the outside. It looks like you need to remove the oil cooler to make the necessary space and I would rather not do that. Any advice would be appreciated. -Tutt | ||
| Cowboytutt |
I should of searched first. Think I found what I was looking for. That left front nut is a bugger! -Tutt http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/537027.html?1274149936 | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Yes it is. I jammed it using a long straight screwdriver. After that it's easy going. My Barker and ECM will arrive tomorrow. You beat me to it  | ||
| Swampdog225 |
Don't forget the pinch bolt on the right rear set. It's not in the service manual. I struggled for a while trying to figure out what was preventing the muffler from dropping. Also, make sure that you put something underneath the muffler, it will fall. | ||
| Cowboytutt |
'Storm, I won't be able to install it now until this Friday or Saturday so your still in the race! I'm hoping I can jam it with the screw driver as I have some very long ones. If not, I think the other post mentioned a 13mm open end wrench would work. I'll have to read that again. Thanks guys! I'm pretty limited in my tools and don't work on stuff much anymore other than oil, filters, plugs and simple maintenance. -Tutt | ||
| Highlander51 |
Tutt, If I recall I took mine off with a boxend 13 mm. It's tight but take a look at it with a mirror if you can. Your going to like your bike after it's done. Have fun! | ||
| Jion |
A couple of the nuts on mine had bad threads. Which was OK as I think you need a couple of flat washers to make up for the thickness of the muffler under the oil cooler. When to the local Home Depot and got some M8 nuts, lock and flat washers. All went together great. One thing I found, when you install, also loosen the bolt that is right above the right footpeg. This lets the rear-set arm move out so you can easily slide the Barkers clamp into place. Love the ECM/Barkers combo.  | ||
| D_adams |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=290431&post=1725564#POST1725564 Next time I have a stock pipe on mine, I'll get pics or video of the removal. | ||
| Cowboytutt |
I was also advised by Steve Burns, Chase McFarland's race mechanic, to put some anti-sieze lubricant inside the slip-on part of the Barker pipe and between the surfaces of the clamps so they slip over each other freely. Otherwise, if you need to take it apart later, it involves a lot of hammering! Steve also works on a lot of older vintage bikes so I figure he knows what he is talking about. Spray the outside as well as the INSIDE of the stock muffler with WD-40 for storage so it will not rust out. While I can't see a day wanting to put the stocker back on, someone may want to put a bike back together "bone stock" for historic purposes so it seems prudent to properly store the stock muffler. -Tutt | ||
| Badlionsfan |
On right side of muffler: 1.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for rear muffler mount. This bolt is not reused for installation. 2.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for front muffler mount which also happens to be the lower heat exchanger support fastener. Nut on back side of this bolt is captive so it stays installed in stock muffler and you don't need a wrench to hold it. When stock muffler is completely removed, this bolt gets reinstalled along with the nut and toothed lock washer that comes with Barker's kit to re-secure the lower heat exchanger mount. 3.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt that supports engine just below brake peg. Remove spacer. This is where the Barker's oval bracket mounts. It takes the place of the spacer, so put it away for storage in case you want to revert back to stock. 4.) Loosen two clamps for the header/collector. On left side of muffler: 5.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for rear muffler mount that you can see through the holes of the idler pulley for the final drive belt. May need to move the bike forwards/backwards to be able to see bolt. This bolt is not reused for assembly. 6.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for front muffler mount which is the same situation for the other side: it doubles as the lower heat exchanger mount, except the nut is not captive. You have to shimmy a 13mm (I think) open end wrench under the heat exchanger to get to it ... not hard at all. This bolt and nut gets reused after stock muffler is removed, though it's much easier to get to is after the stock muffler's gone. Barker's: 7.) Loosen muffler clamps and make sure they're oriented right for easy future loosening/tightening. 8.) CAREFULLY pre-install oval bracket on Barker's can with the mount to the right side. I recommend using the spacer that you removed from the stock mount to keep the bracket spread apart. The can will scratch VERY easily. No worries though ... surface finish can be restored with some 0000 steel wool, polish, or green scotch bright pad and WD-40. 9.) Slide collector over headers and orient bracket correctly and tighten up!! One note, I found it much easier to line up the barker by loosening the bolt for the right foot peg assembly, makes it easier to line everything up. | ||
| Cowboytutt |
P.S. I will probably put anti-sieze on all the new bolts and fasteners as it can't hurt. Steve said you get a much more accurate torque reading whether using your bare hands or a torque wrench as your not artificially "inflating" the torque reading due to thread friction. Steve let me help remove the brakes, wheels and calipers on my CR, then bust off and replace my tires. We used Dyna Beads for dynamic balancing and they seem to work fine. I'm really, really lucky to find a guy who is willing to educate me on how to do this stuff, and do it WITH ME and not just do the work and charge me for it. The McFarland Clan (Steve Burns is essentially Chase's "Uncle") are really good, good people and I'm lucky to know them. -Tutt | ||
| Cowboytutt |
Badlions, I sure appreciate your help, and everyone elses too. My best friend will probably be going with a Barkers after mine so this info will benifit him as well as me. Thank all of you very much! -Tutt | ||
| Jayz |
Great info and will be very helpful as I too have a Barkers and Erik Buell Racing ECM in the mail  | ||
| Cowboytutt |
One other thing that came to mind. During one of my 2 phone conversations with Tim Barker (he actually answers his own phone and has both times!) he told me that after installing his exhaust to wipe down the collecter pipes with rubbing alcohol to remove finger print smudges, grease and oil. These oils will unevenly discolor the pipes. I have to tell you guys, that I was really impressed with Tim's professionalism, kindness, and courtesy, long before the results of Al's exhaust shoot-out. He seemed to me to be a VERY nice man. The guys at Erik Buell Racing seem to think so too, so its nice to give such a person my buisiness. Also, it is far too rare that one of the most competatively priced exhausts is also the best performing, and has such honorable customer service. Tim's customer service to a European customer was already documented in a different thread. So, kudos to Tim Barker for making such a fine product at a reasonable price and with such good customer support. -Tutt | ||
| Cowboytutt |
OK, got the whole kit on tonight. The 13mm angled wrench did the job on the front left nut, no problem. The front right required a typical 6mm Allen wrench which I tapped in with a hammer and applied plyers too to loosen it. Not difficult and did not require much torque. I applied anti-sieze to the head-pipe slip over but had some of it blow out. Hoping I can clean it off. DEFINATELY clean the pipes and muffler with rubbing alcohol before start-up. The Barker system starts to turn gold in just a short ride. Definately runs better with less engine braking and MUCH less "herky jerky" throttle response. The sound is LOUD with no Quiet Core but INTOXICATING! Many, many times better than stock, or even a Ducati if you ask me! Seems to have a little more power but can't really comment on that yet as I only had it out for a 15 minute ride. The difference in sound and drivability, plus so far it does seem to run cooler, are worth every penny! -Tutt | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Sounds about the same for me Tutt. I've only put about 50 miles on so far and I am using a 1.5" QC installed. Have yet to hear the full bellow from the beast. First thing I noticed was the recal on the ECM was not quite as silky smooth as the original cal for the HMF. Now I put about 10,000 miles on the original cal, so it's possible the ECM learned the fueling over that time and smoothed out. With the original cal I got ZERO surge or indecision when holding a steady throttle at low load and mid RPM. With the current set up it sounds best under a slight load. No load or light load the fueling seems to be undecided about whether to come on or lay back. I think this could also be the free flowing pipe. It's not exactly a fault, just a quirk. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Froggy or ? Do you think this needs to go to new owner info? | ||
| Cowboytutt |
Took the CR for a "beer run" to Anderson Valley Brewing company in Boonville, CA today. This means using Hwy 253 which is one of the best local twisty roads and the one I used to tune my suspension. I was dressed in only a t-shirt and jeans so decided to take it easy. The improvement in drivability, and the throttle not being so sensitive, was really confidence inspiring. I found myself much smoother in the turns, and eventually leaning over further and further despite wanting to be cautious! And the sound! Egads! Today was the most enjoyable one hour ride I've ever had on my 09 CR! All the work trying to get a proper front/rear suspension set-up, playing with fork tube height and settling on dropping the fork tubes 6mm, installing the Michelin 2CTs, and now the Barker/Erik Buell Racing Race Tuner combo really came together in a huge way. After a lot of frustration trying to get it set up right, this bike is going NO WHERE and will always be in my garage! -Tutt (Message edited by CowboyTutt on August 14, 2010) | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Congrats. I rode about 300 miles today and the ECM adjusted the fueling to an even finer degree. It now has the same feel as it did before the recalibration in terms of finesse. Loving it. So ride man ride! | ||
| Cowboytutt |
Wow, good to hear 'Storm! Glad we are having similar experiences! You are thus considered to be my friend. Ride hard, and enjoy life! God Bless, -Tutt |
