| Author | Message | ||
     Pontlee77 |
Hi guys and gals, I have a Uly 06 and i'm going to up grade to 07 springs, so i will also change the oil I just want to know if some one of hand can tell me the amount of oil I need for each fork leg so I don't have to mess around with levels. Thank you | ||
| Paul56 |
When I did mine I got to the point of overfilling the first fork before realizing why. I measured the oil level in the other fork (before disassembly) and just matched it in the first one. I don't recall the exact amount. Its a great and inexpensive mod. I really like the feel. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
The oil levels for the 07 springs are different than the 06 springs. I don't know what the difference is, but I know the oil levels are different. | ||
| Maximum |
I did my first '07 fork oil change using the '06 manual...and it did feel too stiff. So I would agree with Ft_bstrd on that point...that the oil levels are different, with the '07's requiring less oil. On my last oil change I used one full bottle of HD heavy duty fork oil in each fork, and it seems pretty good to me. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I only know because my dealer service department called to ask if I wanted the fork oil levels at the 06 or 07 levels. I told them to set the forks up as though they are 07 forks. | ||
| Tootal |
Does anybody have an 07 manual that could enlighten us on the 07 level? I'm doing my 06 right now and will need that information soon. | ||
| Glenn |
This should help: Posted by Anonymous (aka Eric Buell?) http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=142838&post=741654#POST741654 It's interesting to see the various theories, it reinforces that fact that suspension set-up is a very personal thing. Every rider wants different things because they have different wants & needs. That is why there is adjustment. One setting won't work for everyone in every riding situation. The setting charts in the manuals are just a good starting point or 'baseline'. I encourage you to experiment with adjustments to find out what you like best, don't worry, you can always go back to the 'baseline' if you get lost. The one major thing that I missing from this discussion is that on any fork type suspension there are really two springs, the coil spring and the 'air' spring. As the fork travels into the stroke, the volume inside the leg gets smaller. The oil and metal parts can't compress, but the air does. So, as the fork gets shorter the air pressure gets higher and pushes back (remember the ideal gas laws from physics P*V=MR*T). This air spring effect can be a very large force, or a very small force depending on the ratio of compressible stuff and incompressible stuff inside the fork. To demonstrate this affect, think about what would happen if you filled the fork 100% with oil, would it compress at all? Because of the air spring is always a progressive rate (for the fork type of suspension anyway) even if you have a straight rate mechanical spring you end up with a progressive overall rate! How progressive this overall rate is very dependent on oil level and becomes more and more sensitive to oil level tolerance as you adjust the oil level (replace the compressible air with incompressible oil). Remember the ratio is what's important here. Ok, thought I'd set the record straight with some facts now. 2006 Ulysses: Single Rate fork spring 39 lbs / in Oil level 113 mm from top with fork fully compressed (+ or ' a few mm ideally) 2007 Ulysses: Triple Rate fork spring 39 lbs / inch up to 3 inches of travel 59 lbs / inch from 3 inches to 5.4 inches of travel 84 lbs / inch from 5.4 inches to 6.5 (bottomed) Oil Level 172 mm from top with fork fully compressed (+ or ' about 8 mm no problem) | ||
| Arcticktm |
I switched my 06 over last spring, and used the info from the same Buell article that glen posted above. Set them up as if they are 07 forks now. I really like the result. I bought 2 bottles of HD fluid, but did not use it all. I was very careful to make my own measurements on oil level, and suggest you do it this way. A shortcut here could waste your time, as the progressive 07 springs seem to be more sensitive to oil level (which makes sense). Collect the old fork oil and measure it as a reality check, but you do not want to put the same amount back in. Follow the advice in the article and you will be good. | ||
| Tootal |
Thanks Glenn, that's just what I needed. The commentary was also good as that is how Harley use to control their anti-dive on the Electra Glides. They allowed the air from the forks to enter the handlebars. You set the front fork pressure just like you do the rears. They had a switch that disconnected the air in the handlebars when you touched the brake so you had less air to compress which caused less dive in the fork under braking. I read in a magazine that as antiquated as a Harley was, their anti-dive worked better than many others. The new Harley's don't have it and that's too bad, it really did work well. | ||
| Glenn |
Good, I thought it was a great write up by anonymous too. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I think the whole point of Pontlee77's post was asking if somebody could tell him the quantity (i.e.- cc's or whatever) of fork oil that is required so he wouldn't have to measure the fork oil level in inches. | ||
| Tootal |
The inch conversion is close to 6 3/4". That's within 1/2 mm. If it's hard to see the oil level just stick a 12" scale down, say 8". If you have an oil level on the scale then subtract what's below the level mark,or what's covered in oil, from 8" for your level. If you can see the level then it would be easier. Once your happy with your level then measure what's left of your quart of oil and subtract that from 1 quart. You may want to convert to cc's for an easier measurement. This will be what you need for the other fork. I will do this when I get to that point if somebody hasn't beat me to it, and post my results. If somebody has figured this out already then by all means, enlighten us! |
